does any one can help me with this ?i have a Felicia 97 when i drive it under the speed of 90 KM/H the heat dose not go up the limits and when i accelerate to 120 km/h it overheats also it over heat when the road is going up ... what can cause that

ps

i have changed with new parts :

1- new radiator

2- new cylinder head complete with valves (very very expensive):mad::mad:

3- 3 time of coolant changing

4- 2 times thermostat

5- removed all clogs from manifold

all from the dealer (Skoda Original Parts)

offfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

:( :(

i will sell the car for that reason soon . i started to feel that the car has a gost in it also all mechanics do not know the reason

Water pump ???????????????????????

my water pump is not leaking also does not have strange sounds coming from it ??

It may be siezed?

when i open my cap from where i add water while idle i see the coolant moving but when i accelerate i do not see any move on the coolant is that right

Waterpump is the only remaining thing left to try... The waterpump on my Polo didnt leak and was nice and quiet, but when I removed it the impellor wasn't attached to the shaft of the pump. Coolant will still circulate a little due to the heat differences.

does the valve clearances affect the heat while accelerating only and what are they?

What engine is in it? It could be ignition timing or a weak mixture. What are the engine specifications for an Egyption market Felicia? I have seen a Cyprus market one which was mechanically similar to an early carburettor Favorit.

the mechanic said to me it may be the motor block it self can any one help with that

I still say change the water pump before trying owt more expensive.

Does your car have the 1289cc engine? If so, were the liners heights checked before the cylinder head was fitted? When the temperature guage says the engine is overheating is the coolant being forced out of the header tank? Does your car have the alloy thermostat housing or the later plastic type? Are you getting oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil? Does the engine have a misfire or feel sluggish?

....and you thought YOU were asking the questions!!

impeller is slipping on coolant pump, you will only see this when you remove the pump.

I'd check for an airlock in the radiator (engine gets hot, but top hose doesn't get hot and remains squishy) before anything else. If it's not that, CheezeMonkhai's waterpump suggestion's the next thing to try, and after that I'm left suspecting that Dave's right and one or more of the liners has moved (especially if the engine got turned over at all when the head was off. I don't know Egyptian consumer rights law, but IMO that would be the garage's fault, and their responsibility to fix at their expense [including supplying a free courtesy car while they did it]).

i have the 1289 cc engine and i have a plastic thermostat housing i do not have oil on water and i do not know what and where are liners heights located and it was not checked

I'll try to explain a liner. Please someone correct me if I get it wrong.

An engine block is basically a complex metal casting, and the cylinders are formed by casting holes in the block, then machining them out to size. Some manufacturers (and Skoda in the S100/S110 [or possibly earlier] to Felicia period formed the cylinders be boring them oversize, and then fitting a machined sleeve of better quality metal to form the actual bore that the pistons run in. This is the liner. Liners come in 2 varieties "dry liners" (which Skoda didn't use, but just sit in the block) and "wet liners" (which Skoda did use).

Wet liners are so called because there is a space between the bore and the liner which is filled with coolant (so they're wet on one side, and dry liners aren't).

When a wet liner is installed, the bottom (crankshaft end) of the liner is sealed using a copper ring. If the engine is then turned over with the cylinder head off, one or more of the liners may move, breaking the bottom seal, and causing one or more of:-

1) water leaking into the oil system.

2) oil leaking into the water system.

3) combustion gases leaking into the water system.

If you don't have water in the oil or oil in the water, I'm sure the liners haven't moved though, so I'd go back to either the air lock or water pump issues, as my previous message.

And What If The Combustion Gases Into The Water It Will Over Heat The Car . Also I Want To Ask At What Tempreture The Fan Should Start Plz By C And At What Tempreture Should It Stop , And How Can I Check If The Water Have Combustion Gases In It;

And Thanx For Fast Replay

In answer to the first point yes (been there, done that, scrapped the

thanks so much for your help but i have fitted my radiator fan with an automatic electric thermostat open at 83 c and closes at 70 c and the car does not reach the 70 c temperature so the fan never stops is that right or wrong

That's hard to say off-hand. The fan thermostat is outside the radiator if it's the usual type, so it doesn't work on the actual water temperature (but I presume you know that, since your trigger on and off temperatures are lower than the actual water temperatures that would be typical for a pressurised water cooled petrol engine [say on at 93 to 98C and off at 80 to 85C water temperatures {based on your quoted temperatures}]).

The next question is whether or not the thermostat location is in a "hot spot" on the engine, so that, whilst the water generally cools sufficiently, the spot where the thermostat is stays hot.

And now we have to consider that car manufacturers used to be notorious for fitting badly calibrated temperature gauges to cars. Which comes back to the original question you asked and I honestly don't know the answer to (I'm an amateur mechanic, and my only Skoda is my current Octy) about block thermostat open and close temperatures.

Having said all of which, I'm now wondering if the problem is maybe not your engine overheating, but the fan thermostat setup. The manual for my old ZX (petrol) quotes 5C degrees (correct English for a range) between the on (higher) and off (lower) temperatures.

Hi.Maybe I can help.The thermostat fully opens at 88 C degres an the termocontact for the fan closes(fan begin to work) at 85 - 90 C degres and reopens(fan stop) at 80 - 85 C degres (from the service manual).I have changed this 2 pieces because the thermostat was old (1995) and it opens at 30 C degres and the thermocontact was opening ocasionally making my engine to overheat (steam,etc.) .Good luck.PS:the thermocontact that was on my car it has a range : 88C - 79C .

Well, that pretty much confirms my thoughts that, if fbhahmed's car is returning the actual water temperatures for fan on/off, part of the problem is that the fan off temperature is too low.

i have removed the mechanical thermostat does this make my car over heat while accleration

i have removed the mechanical thermostat does this make my car over heat while accleration

It shouldn't do. If you didn't live in Egypt there would be a whole lecture to follow this about it being a bad idea because removing the thermostat slows the rate that the engine warms up at, but unless you make a practice of driving the car in dead of night in Winter, I don't imagine it actually being too much of a problem for once.

but i have read that the thermostat also regulate the time the coolant stays on the radiator so the coolant can loose all the heat also the cold coolant can absorb all the heat in the engine ??

I think I see what you mean; the thermostat controls the flow rate through the radiator. Yes that's true, but I've never heard of overcooling problems caused by increasing the flow rate directly.

I've just had another thought which is model-specific, and as I've said before, I've never owned a Favorit. Does it have a fan shroud (a plate covering part of the radiator, with a hole where the fan assembly fits)? If so, is that in place and intact? I had an issue with running temperatures on a Ford Cortina when I changed the cambelt, and thought I'd be clever and make the engine easier to work on by leaving the fan shroud off.