My engine seems really noisy at higher revs, about 3k +. I generally try to drive at about 2k or just above. It has been like this a while. Could it be the timing chain, the valve clearances or is it just worn after 110k miles? Would it benefit from being run at 4k-5k RPM for a length of time on the motorway to thrash it out?

At that sort of mileage it could be the timing chain (stretched or wear in tensioner but chain itself ok [presumes automatic tensioner]), valve clearances, or indeed just general wear.

whats your oil viscosity like? as a matter of interest. could be any manner of things tbh, but personally id start with resetting the tappets.

No tensioner on the Favorit timing chain. Well, not on mine anyway! The 'worn timing chain noise' can be heard at all engine speeds - though it's probably fair to say it's more noticable at low revs or tickover when it isn't masked by other engine noises at higher revs.

It might be worth re-setting the tappets (no cost involved) but again, noisy tappets are probably more alarming and noticeable at lower revs.

Thrashing it at high revs will do it no good at all if it's a mechanical problem. The high revs thrash is generally percieved as a way of shifting gunge in the manifolds and combustion chambers - a sort of cheap de-coke. Anybody remember de-coking an angine? Or am I showing my age...?

Simon H

It's got a whole mix of oils and stuff in there. One is 20/50, but I think it's mostly 15/40. Added Wynns Stop Leak which is supposed to help renovate the oil seals. Also later added wynns supercharge which to me looked like treacle so I guess all that does is make the oil thicker at contact points.

Planning to drain the oil whilst hot, empty the oil filter, then refit it and the bolt. Fill with engine flush and run the engine. Then possibly fill the engine with cheapo 20/50 oil to remove any traces of flush, then fit my new filter, new bolt and washer and I have got some 10/40 oil from Asda which I intend to use, but I could get something different if that's likely to be better (must admit I do have my doubts about such a low viscosity now given the engine is worn - but can only see by trying).

The engine has been this way for a while long before I added the concoctions to the oil was just wondering if it was anything easily sortable really. The noise isn't too bad at idle, the main thing then is the heat shield rattling occasionally. The noise isn't too bad at 2k rpm but gets very noticeable at about 3k. The noise is very constant and just sounds like the normal engine noise but much louder.

I'll look at getting myself a good spanner set as I only have socket set at the moment and will attempt the tappets when I spend some time on the car. Only thing I don't understand in the Haynes manual is it seems as if you're supposed to move something so the valves are at their optimum position, but I can't figure out what you're supposed to move?

Well, that's a sensible flushing procedure you've got there.

I've not worked on a Favorit, but in general terms, number the valves 1 to 8 as per manual. Rotate the engine using a big socket (the ZX manual I keep in work as a general reference needed a 22mm) on the big nut on the crankshaft pulley (easier if you take the spark plugs out) until the designated valve number is fully open (if you can get someone else to rotate the engine past the relevant point this becomes clear as you watch), and adjust the valve designated for adjustment.

Hmmm... I wondering if the timing chain really is your problem. Mine was in in it's final death throes when I bought the car so I don't know what it sounded like in the early stages of wear. Maybe it's more noticeable at higher revs early on?

I wouldn't recommend tackling the timing chain if you're not familiar with working on engines. To do the job you'll need to remove the alternator, distributor, sump, oil pick-up pipe, oil pump gears, crankshaft pulley, timing cover and finally the timing chain and sprockets.

You won't need an extensive tool kit but you WILL need a 5mm hex (Allen) key for the timing cover bolts. (That's how my Favorit is, anyway).

Parts:

Timing chain & sprockets Approx

The timing chain is more noticable at higher revs for sure.

A good oil change like you say, and the valve clearances adjusting would be good to do though.

I'd be using a semi synthetic 15/40 in a well worn Favorit tbh.

I wouldn't recommend tackling the timing chain if you're not familiar with working on engines. To do the job you'll need to remove the alternator, distributor, sump, oil pick-up pipe, oil pump gears, crankshaft pulley, timing cover and finally the timing chain and sprockets.

You won't need an extensive tool kit but you WILL need a 5mm hex (Allen) key for the timing cover bolts. (That's how my Favorit is, anyway).

Parts:

Timing chain & sprockets Approx

theres no difference between synthetic and mineral on most oils, as due to some stupid ruling a few years ago, anything that isnt oil itself thats added makes it 'synthetic'. go for a good quality oil however, if you are having any kind of wear/engine noise. id pick up some mahoosively dear castrol, prolly magnatec, and cringe all the way to the filler cap.

Once the oil went from being filled to the max mark to below the bottom of the dipstick after only about 600 miles (must be what? 2.5 litres?). I added the wynns stop leak at this point and it seems to have helped. My only worry about putting in

i had a red favorit - actually, have - possibly the same colour as yours lol. it dripped oil everywhere and would lose the whole lot within a week of doing 3 mile each way trips to work and back. i think it turned out to be the dipstick itself wasnt sealed, so under pressure the oil seeped through and away into the free world. if your oil is vanishing then the tappets wont be getting lubed, and be extra noisy. and oil thins as it heats so at 3k it might be why.

to summarise.

find oil leak.

fix it.

set tappets (easy enough job - info on request )

enjoyzorama.

Putting a tissue at the bottom end of the filter reveals that lots of oil is there. This appears to be where it's coming from so I am hoping oil and filter change will sort it out. The oil itself seems to have moved around underneath the car but I am hoping that that's just the stuff that's clinging on moving backwards when the car is being driven and that it's no more serious than the filter. Tried tightening it by hand but it wouldn't move.

Putting a tissue at the bottom end of the filter reveals that lots of oil is there. This appears to be where it's coming from so I am hoping oil and filter change will sort it out. The oil itself seems to have moved around underneath the car but I am hoping that that's just the stuff that's clinging on moving backwards when the car is being driven and that it's no more serious than the filter. Tried tightening it by hand but it wouldn't move.

You'd be on sensible lines there; I've had oil leaks which missed the exhaust (hot parts that is) spread themselves pretty thin.

These old engines are never absolutely quiet but it shouldn't sound horrendously bad. At 110,000 miles I'd definately replace the chain. I've seen a couple wear through the timing chain cover!

The sump has to be removed to do this job so combine it with the oil and filter change job. While the sump is off clean out the sump and the oil pump strainer. Other than the usual spanners and screwdrivers you'll need a 30mm socket and bar to undo the crank pulley and a 5mm allen key to undo the timing cover screws. It's an easy job, but fairly time consuming. If you're unsure have a Haynes manual to hand and feel free to ask me anything as I've done several Skoda timing chain replacements.

There is no point in buying expensive Magnatec type oils for these engines. I recommend Duckhams 20W/50 oil [about

Thanks daverapid.

Would love to have a go, but having read the haynes manual it looks like there's plenty of points for things to go wrong. Especially if the alignment of things like the distributor and alternator go wrong on being re-fitted. It often seems to be the case that things will come apart easier than they'll go together.

I think I'll phone around in the morning and ask how much labour is likely to be for the timing chain change (hopefully if they'll allow me to provide parts it will keep the cost down a bit). If i think it's worth it given the overall condition of the car I'll get someone else to do it if they aren't asking too much.

Having done a couple of dissie replacements with a pro mechanic mate, the worst that can happen is that the alignment is wrong when you put the dissie in, and the engine won't start; you won't do any damage. Oh and if it's right first time it's down to luck, not skill.

Quoted

I think

I think

If you live anywhere near me call round with your car and I'll help you do it at the garage I work at after hours or at a weekend.

In leeds, although A1(M) goes straight there it's a bit far unfortunately. But thanks very much for the offer

if you can afford to take the car off the road for ashort time, a long weekend or so, we can guide you through it! i say we, i mean dave!

A straight oil drain, flush, and filter change plus new oil has improved things somewhat. Next task is to adjust valve clearances and will report back if I gather all parts/tools required to do the timing chain, and get stuck. Got to say though I thought this oil change was somewhat challenging so dunno what I'd be like going taking the sump and everything off

From my previous experience, if an oil change has improved things, do the valve clearances, and replace spark plugs and HT leads. You may then decide that the engine is quiet enough anyway.