Jono

Hi All, I recently had an oil change/filter clean (I hope) on my haldex. I knew it was working before the service from testing with traction control off. After service I didn't check immediately out of mechanical sympathy whilst it was cold and and whilst it sorted itself out with adaptions and biting points etc, but a couple of days afterwards I noticed FW spin leaving my street via an uphill, wet junction. I've since provoked it on wet/cold roads and I'm definitely in 2WD mode. A basic OBDeleven check shows no fault codes for the Haldex and there's tons of real-time data I can check that I don't really understand but suggests it is getting power (although I haven't checked the fuse, for example - fuse 9?) Its back at the dealers tomorrow and I anticipate a potential argument about me taking in a working Haldex, and them returning me a serviced non-functional one... I'm hoping they forgot to prime the pumps or run adaptations or something and can do that and us both be happy, rather than having to replace the <£300 part> Any thoughts anyone?

Great thanks! This is totally what I'm here for!

Hi All, Now I'm avoiding dealers wherever possible (after the ****ery that was the 23AX update and their inability to acknowledge a problem). I have a small indy garage that I plan to use for MOT/Oil/brakes etc. but I'm not sure if I should be using a main dealer or a more specialist indy for things like DSG and Haldex oil changes. Taking a day out of my life or not having a courtesy car is a bit of a barrier to using indies further away (from Nottingham) Does anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TIA

Do you have a DSG gearbox? And has this update caused any changes to its operation? 23AX made my DSG stuck in ECO mode and it was ****ing painful trying to get Skoda to roll the software back... The dealership are dead to me after claiming there was nothing wrong and I must just drive funny...

There are several variations, You'll want to find which part is definitely right for your car, then go searching autodoc for it!

Thanks everyone, I think the bottom line is that it's possible to use them for winter spares if I wanted. Thankyou

I'm just thinking ahead for my next car, and I wondered if the spare/winter wheels I have for my Octy 3 would be worth keeping for use on a Mk 3 Superb - should I join the Superb-club I'm struggling to understand if the wheels would be usable - allowing for the fact that it might well need a different tyre fitment These are the Octy wheel fitment, 225/50R17 94W 7Jx17 ET45 From what I can tell its a 5mm offset difference and would have a 1.7% smaller rolling circumference versus this Superb fitment 215/55R17 94V 7Jx17 ET40 Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

Hi all, Just posting my experience of this same problem. Left side high beams stopped working, fine on dipped. Checked 12-wire connector to the headlight assemble as per Varooom's advice above - power to yellow/white wire on full beam. I had to strip a scrap of wire and insert in the plug to test this, as my multimeter couldn't reach metal in this plug. Located 2-wire connector inside light as per Niclask's photo above. Power to this connector on high beam only. "Crap" I thought - suggests it's the motor/shutter and I'll have to figure out how the hell to get the light out to look some more. Aggressively switchcleanered the blue 2-wire plug and it's socket, gently wiggled any bits of the internals that my fingers could get to and thankfully fullbeams started working again! Phew! Photo below is the 2-wire connector - brown+blue for me - likely as mine was the LHS light, right? Thanks everyone!

Thanks for you help everyone. This saga appears to be closed. Got a new part from autodoc - Valeo brand - the same that came off - hopefully it wont fail in 60k miles again... Local garage that I'm hoping to make my go-to place charged £200 to fit. Few bubbles into the expansion tank upon opening it after the first drive. Behaved since. Things I'll note here for the benefit of folks trying to diagnose in the future. I got a weak-positive sniff test - This was a red herring and was likely recirculated exhaust gas into the pressurised manifold then the coolant - it didn't mean a cracked block or post-engine leak for me. Borescope into the temp sensor on the manifold when the coolant was hot and pressurised showed coolant leaking into it.

5-minute job then... I'll get right on it

Amazing, Thankyou.

Thanks for your help so far with this everyone. I've sourced a new part and am now sorting a garage to fit. I have the gasket too, but can anyone suggest the volume of coolant I'm going to need to top up after fitting? Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I agree that new would be preferred on principle- but where the maths is ~£1300 new, versus ~£400 used I might be prepared to make a calculated decision to accept the increased odds of early failure of a used part. Especially as it seems right now that new parts are all £1k, with no £500 options out there. A scrapped 250k-miler donor would be a different proposition to a non-frontal-crashed 60k-miler. I may well just buy new, but right now I'm gathering the info to make an informed decision.

In sending up the @varooom bat-signal for assistance with other part numbers preceding the latest one: 04L 129 711 AC I'm also trying to source a 2nd hand part, but these seem thinner on the ground than other part numbers. New seem to be £800-1000. I can see some revisions as per this page - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04l129711ac-intake-manifold-skoda-32179.html but it's be nice to get an authoritative set of numbers! Thanks in advance!!!

This claims to be the correct part - at 415 Euros https://www.auto-doc.ie/van-wezel/14762726 Based on the latest revision of the correct part: 04L 129 711 AC Is there a good way to make absolutely sure? I'm more prone to paying £400 versus £100-200 for a used one.