Dooge

I dont have Odis though! 😂

So, this is what I used and it activated something: These are the options: To answer your question, the 'Fill/bleed brake system' option brings up the below option. I'm not sure what any of the options mean...

Hi all, I have had my brakes bled on my Superb 2018 mk3 280 by two different garages (dealer and then independent) as ever since I've had the car the brake pedal has always felt soft in comparison to my last car (MK3 Skoda Octavia VRS) From what I remember reading, the ABS pump can be activated to either get rid of trapped air or old fluid because simply bleeding the regular way or via a pressure bleeder wont touch the fluid in the ABS pump (although I cant remember where I saw it now!) The thing I can't seem to work out is how to do this on OBD11 Pro. I can access a brake bleed cycle (Brakes - Basic settings - Bleed cycle) but this hasnt really helped. All the how to's I can find online are for other vehicles or with VCDS where things are labelled slightly differently. Can anyone tell me where in the app I need to go? Thanks, Doug

30mm is massive! Any issues with tramlining or comfort?

It entirely depends on what you want. I intend to do something at aome point to my 272/280. From research a Golf R rear ARB is a smidge bigger diameter (19mm on ours I THINK) VS 21.7mm on the Golf R and is a pretty cheap option. But, the effort to fit and then replace is alot of hassle (I replaced my Octavia VRS rear ARB and I know that was a faff, especially as that didnt have a rear diff) The jump isnt massive. I'd suggest a 24mm you'll be able to tell the difference. As mentioned, I went from 17mm to 19mm on my VRS and the difference was varely noticeable.

I was led to believe that my late 2018 was a 272 with a GPF, but it has flaps on the exhaust. Does that make it a 280? If I dont have a GPF the exhaust flaps do very little. Went to code them to keep them open, from what I can see they are already coded open all the time (unless I am doing it wrong) Theres little that can be done on modern cars to make them sound good, especially with a GPF.

My 2 pence (not 272/280 estate but 68 plate 272 saloon) Ive owned mine for almost a year, I specifically wanted the Sportline because I believe it looks sharper than the L&K. The part fabric seats are a much better compromise all year round (I had a mk3 Octavia VRS with the same seats in leather before) BUT they wouldnt be half as good for stains/food/other family stuff compared to the leather L&K. Spec wise I do like DCC but its not perfect. It naturally seems to sit a little higher than non DCC cars but doesnt worry me too much, it is more adaptable than regular shocks. I have heard DCC shocks are more likely to wear out quicker than normal however and are far pricier. I have heated seats and steering wheel which I love, although not so much of an issue with fabric seats. The only thing I wouldnt bother with again is the sunroof. My god it creaks and cracks with every bump. Its been through the dealer and they couldnt find anything wrong. Worth checking boot struts, they can fail and are common. Yes, waterpumps have a bad rap but this is my third EA888 (Gen 1 in a mapped MK6 Golf GTi that hit 96k before I sold, the Octavia VRS and now the Sportline) The 7 speed box isnt as 'direct' as the 6 speed, maybe its mapping between the VRS and Sportline but 2nd and 3rd gear feel like the are 'held' a little longer than they did in the VRS in all modes other than in Sport mode however. In Sport mode and manual mode it feels fantastic, sharper throttle response and the gearbox feels direct. I personally like the fact that Sport mode in the 7 speed will change up earlier than the 6 speed, especially lower gears. Its pointless revving out a turboed engine when the torque drops off and even with stock power and torque you'll start to run out of road or get above the speed limit quickly. Most I had out of my 220 VRS was 41 MPG, that was 3 up in hot weather travelling from Plymouth to Goodwood and back. Best Ive had out of my Sportline is 39 MPG, this was slightly cooler October weather, 3 up from Plymouth to Alton Towers and back. My average for my VRS was always over 30 MPG regardless of weather. My Sportline I can get as little as 22 MPG in very cold weather and shorter journeys (4.5 miles to my work) and average is 28ish. It doesnt worry me so much, I do very little mileage and lifes too short to drive boring cars! That silver Sportline is lovely. The L&K link doesnt work now though, but Id be very wary buying something with a reconditioned engine.

Potentially, I haven't overly thought about it. Theres other things I personally would prioritise on mine, such as getting a gearbox map and an upgraded rear ARB. I'm holding off doing anything to it whilst its still under finance though.

Will do, I unfortunately don't have time to look at it myself so it might be awhile. I've also considered whether its a heat shield underneath that has broken or become loose.

I agree with JR above, I cant tell the difference between valve open or not for my 280. I've been tempted to get the backboxes opened up to see if an exhaust shop can alter whats inside to make the valve worth it. As for yours, its tricky to know as the OPF I think blocks out most of the sound now on modern engines and Id imagine yours will have one.

Yeh, thats an idea. Its still under 'warranty' as an approved used Skoda vehicle but I cant imagine it stretches to funny noises!

Hi all, I am wondering if anyone can diagnose a distinct vibration in my drivers door? Most prominent at higher revs or in cold start. Hasnt always done it, developed a few months back but reluctant to take it to someone to spend lots chasing a fault without having an idea what it might be first or if someone has had similar. I know on mk3 Octavia's they used to suffer with the sound actuator vibrating against the bulkhead or the fuel lines vibrating but I'm not aware of anything obvious on these. 2018 Superb 272, 46k miles. Thanks in advance! Doug VID20250126014700.mp4

I think throttle mapping and the 4x4 is the key to the feeling. Safe, not lively. The 280 petrol is the same, feels a bit dull at low throttle but goes like a scalded cat when flooring it. A remap might help, not necessarily for more power but because throttle mapping can be changed meaning it feels more lively.

Thats good to know. I am slowly making a list of bits to modify if I decide to keep it when it gets to the end of the PCP dealer. Remap and gearbox map are on the list too.

Noted, but the original poster is in the UK and thats where I was looking...