[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

 

OP: Aren't you tempted to have a go with some Mr Muscle?  Dunno what access is like on a Fabia, but on a mate's Octavia (110) we had a go at, it was easyish to disconnect the exhaust from the hot side of the turbo, and spray the stuff straight in there, rather than the gamble of poking a tube down from above and not being too sure where it's gone.

 

Tried that on the last one, did it the hard way too! It's worth a punt on this one, just got to find the time to get it all apart. I did get some innotec turbo cleaner stuff that's still lying around as I never got around to getting underneath and taking the exhaust end off.. Worth trying that or just Mr Muscle?

 

Thanks

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

Thanks for the help and advice guys. Got another vacuum block on order on the chance that fixes it.. I think it's safe to say it's just another sticky VNT. I'll have to put up with it or sell the car to someone who has the time/cash to fix it as I have neither at the moment unfortunately!

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

Not had a chance to guage the lines but took it out aiming to replicate the problem with a bluetooth OBD II and Torque on my phone. Took screenshots of normal driving and after the turbo dropped to see if it makes sense to anyone here:

 

Cruising at 70Mph no problems at all:

 

 

 

Lost turbo, if I recall correctly doing 60Mph with foot hard down:

 

 

Does this mean anything to anyone? I believe I had a MAF sensor, an air intake pressure sensor and the turbo PSI up.

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

I wouldn't squirt anything down which could thicken and stick up delicate valves   remember some are not on or off but vibrate at high speed varying the proportion of time open to shut   if you have the N75 valve in isolation as opposed to the "multi-block"  it can be temporarily switched with it's twin which one I have forgotten----

 

Thanks for the advice, will try and get lines vac tested today.

 

but do search on here or on SEAT Cupra Net  (can I say that on here /  )  look for posts from STU

 

I won't tell if you won't!

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

your MAP is close enough   can you rig a vac line and gauge tapped into the turbo control line to see if anything odd is happening ---assume you've thoroughly checked all the vac pipes  and you have sufficient vac at all times?  p.s always start with the cheap and simple stuff :sun:

I've consulted dad who is the more mechanically minded of the two of us (I hold the torch), and apparently we do have that stuff so will get it checked properly tomorrow. I seriously hope it's the cheap and simple stuff! Thanks for the advice

 

Plus one what sepulchrave said, N75, I suffer from a very similar issue. Put some wd40 down the hoses n see what that does

I read earlier (possibly one of your posts) via google about doing this and mentioned it to dad. He seemed to think spraying a fluid into a vacuum line was a bad idea.. Perhaps I just explained what I read wrong. Are there any potential negative side effects to this?

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

Checked the vacuum solenoid block where I think the N75 is housed on my Fabia, all the hoses seem clear. The unit itself is sealed so I can't check inidividual components within.. £200 for a new one though so hoping it isn't this. Used a cheap OBD II Bluetooth adapter and the Torque app on my phone, no faults listed.

 

Not sure if it's the MAP as I got an intake manifold pressure reading of 0.99 Atm which is where I think it should be when standing. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

I have not, at the risk of sounding daft, where would I find  that sensor in order to check it?

[Different turbo unit, vanes sticking again?]

Hi guys,

 

 I posted a while ago when I was having a problem with my '02 1.9 TDi Fabia's turbo dropping out between about 2000 and 3000 RPM in 5th gear or when accelerating up a particularly steep hill and the like. I originally replaced the MAF sensor with a cheap compatible part, this didn't fix the problem so I tried the Mr Muscle technique which worked for a few weeks before the same again.

 

Eventually I opted to change the turbo, however being a poor student I bought a used one from the forums here and got the Uni mechanics to fit it. It's not as frequent now, but I still have it drop out with high revs in 5th gear occasionally. It's not unbearable and simply turning the engine off and on again while rolling resets it but it is an annoyance. I was just wondering if anyone could suggest anything I might have missed, should I try to replace the MAF again with a Bosch branded one? Is it more likely that the used turbo I bought also had carbon build up and I'm experiencing more sticky vanes?

 

Any input would be appreciated. Cheers!

[SOLD]

In that case, assuming no issues since feb 13 means the vanes aren't sticking either, I'll take it!

[SOLD]

Forgive my potential stupidity/naievity, but would the tubo fit and work in my 1.9 TDi Fabia I with the engine code ATD?

 

Thanks

 

Josh

[Swapping door components to new door]

Thanks for the reply and sympathy buddy, much appreciated. That link looks like it'll be very helpful! Wish me luck..

[Swapping door components to new door]

Hey guys,

 

 Recently lost an argument with a wall that I reversed down and dented/scratched up the rear passenger door and panels :( In the end I opted to fill and paint the panels myself after getting a quote from local spray places (ouch) and to just swap the door with another.

 

 I bought one from eBay which stated it was the full door and was pictured with glass in, great I thought. It arrived palletised so I stuck it in the garage a few weeks ago until I got around to swapping it. Went to do it today and realised it was literally the door shell and the glass. No runners, mechanisms or anything... D'oh! Think it's too late to make waves with the seller (and I'm pretty unconfrontational) so was just wondering if anyone had any ideas or experience with how straight forward it would be to strip my current door and put it all into the new door?

 

Any and all input appreciated. WIll attach a photo of the damage in case anyone has any other ideas!

 

Thanks in advance

 

Josh

[The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts]

Attempted this again the other day, this time making sure to get plenty of Mr Muscle IN the turbo and pumping the actuator every few minutes for two hours (my poor thumb). Went out, got the thermostat to the middle driving normally and then went to an industrial estate and went around in second in the high rev range for a while. All seemed fine, until the other day I helped a friend moved house, piled a load of stuff into the back of my car with the seats down and him and myself in the front. Turbo went a few times on that 12 mile trip. Think I'll need to get my turbo reconditioned/replaced? Any input welcomed and appreciated!

[The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts]

Hey guys,

 

 I've been having issues with the turbo dropping out at around 2500 RPM in 5th gear whenever it comes under any sort of slight load. I tried this method a couple of weeks ago and it fixed it until now. I decided to give it another flush through to make sure I got it all properly, however I can't seem to remove the two alan bolts. I'm sure they are 6mm as that is the size I used before, however I can only get my 5.5mm to fit into them. This however just is getting no purchase on the bolts. The 6mm I can't get to fit in to the bolt no matter how hard I try. Any idea what might have caused this?

 

Thanks

[Fabia problems, passenger window and strange light]

Hi there

Apologies that my first post here is a problem! I recently became the owner of a Skoda Fabia I 2002 plate. Love the car, but since I've bought it, it's had a small problem that's been bugging me. The front passenger window is operable both up and down from the drivers side control but the one on the passenger door doesn't work. I assumed the switch was dodgy but after using the one from the rear passenger window that I know works, it still wouldn't work. After this I checked the fuse and that was fine. Could this be a wiring issue or does anybody have any other ideas?

So the front switch itself is fine as it works in the rear passenger window. Using a multimeter I determined that there is definitely power going to the connector in the front passenger door and the window definitely works as it can be controlled from the drivers side. I cannot fathom why the window cannot be operated from the passenger.. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

As well as this I also found a strange light under the dash that is always one when the key is in the car, it is located under the center console and behind the gear stick. There is no mention of it in the manual and a large crack in the plastic it's installed into which makes me think it might have been added by a previous user.. but why? Can't find anything on Google but I don't know what I'm searching for..

Thanks in advance!

Josh

[Front passenger side window switch problem]

Hi guys..

Just an update if it helps diagnose the problem. The front switch itself is fine as it works in the rear passenger window. Using a multimeter I determined that there is definitely power going to the connector in the front passenger door and the window definitely works as it can be controlled from the drivers side. I cannot fathom why the window cannot be operated from the passenger.. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

[Front passenger side window switch problem]

Hi there

Apologies that my first post here is a problem! I recently became the owner of a Skoda Fabia I 2002 plate. Love the car, but since I've bought it, it's had a small problem that's been bugging me. The front passenger window is operable both up and down from the drivers side control but the one on the passenger door doesn't work. I assumed the switch was dodgy but after using the one from the rear passenger window that I know works, it still wouldn't work. After this I checked the fuse and that was fine. Could this be a wiring issue or does anybody have any other ideas? I did a search both on the Google and this forum before posting and found topics regarding windows sticking or not working at all but none this specific.

Thanks in advance!

Josh