amusingduck

Hi All, My Octavia vRS wouldn't start earlier, this connector had completely popped off - The one on the left was completely disconnected. Once reconnected the car started immediately. For a while the car has been starting a little more sluggishly than usual, perhaps it has been loose for a while? I just want to check that those pipes look normal, really. Or if there's anything to keep an eye out for. Any advice appreciated!

That doesn't make sense! The car has to be rolling to 'bump' itself, and it will have a much easier time rolling away in 3rd than 1st or reverse. Low gears have a high ratio to make it easier for the engine to turn the wheels. When the wheels are turning the engine (ie - trying to roll away), the reverse is true. Think about engine braking in 5th vs engine braking in 1st, which is more severe? Same principle.

The gears don't prevent the car from moving, the engine does. If gravity is providing enough force to compress the air in the cylinders, the engine will turn and the car will roll. There is nothing to prevent the gears/engine from turning in reverse, which is why a car can roll backwards in first, or forwards in reverse.

This is completely backwards, lower gears provide higher resistance.

The temp gauge is not a true reflection of the coolant temperature, it should rise to 90 and stay there as long as the temperature is within normal range. Coolant Temperature Sensors can be an issue, but I couldn't say for sure whether it was the sensor or the thermostat.

Did you figure this out in the end OP? I also have this occasionally, stock map and stock DV setup

It does yes, but suffered the same problem of forgetting everything with the ignition off. Since the ISO harness has bullet connectors, I've just swapped those over. So - Aerial adapter power cable into blue floating cable. Got it. Thanks guys!

Update: Wires are now swapped around and working a treat. The only remaining issues are the aerial adaptor and the K-Line On the picture below of my ISO adaptor, is the blue floating cable the power source for the aerial adaptor? Is the K-Line cable visible on this picture? and if so which should be cut? Thanks

Ok. I have replaced my stereo now, there are a few issues: I need an adaptor for the aerial. I may as well get a power injector, will this one work? http://www.halfords.com/sat-nav-audio/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-audi-aerial-adaptor-pc5-52 The other issue is that the permanent and switched lives are the wrong way around. I'm using this harness adaptor - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400674530742?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT How difficult is it to swap the wires? Can you pull them out of the connector block and swap over, or do they have to be cut, stripped and joined? I may just see if somebody at halfords will do this, I don't fancy butchering my stereo wires!

Brilliant, thanks for the reply. I'll make sure to get an autoleads adapter and see how I get on with the FM reception.

Hi All, I want to replace the standard stereo in my car with an aftermarket one. I think I know what I'm doing but it won't hurt to double check! I am buying this stereo: http://www.carsoundsandsecurity.co.uk/store/deh-x5700bt/ I believe that an ISO adaptor is not required, and the stereo should work with the existing connector I may have to switch two cables (live and switched live) for this to work properly. Some people fit aerial boosters, but I am led to believe that this is only necessary for AM stations? Correct? Anything I've missed? Thanks!

Standard is SMIC, not FMIC

Got mine from ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281140542980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I got mine from eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-VRS-RS-TURBO-1-8-DRIVERS-RH-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-GENUINE-MINT-GREEN/281140542980?_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=aid%3D333001%26algo%3DRIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211125758%26meid%3D6587138790338591046%26pid%3D100068%26prg%3D20140211125758%26rkt%3D3%26clkid%3D6587141056372019647&_qi=RTM1793693 Much cheaper than ECP, and no surcharge too!

I thought so. Just wanted to make sure before i took them back. Thanks!

Hi Guys, I ordered 2 trw Calipers for the rear, and both of them have the same part number, BHN292. Is this correct, does the O/S + N/S have different part numbers? Thanks

A no-brainer indeed. Car is overpriced, high milage and not ideal for it's purpose. If you wanted a long distance commuter, it might be a good bet.

I thought it was ~3L or so. Thanks for that, Ordered now!

Hello, Could somebody confirm that these part numbers are correct for a vRS please http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2004/p/car-parts/car-brakes/brake-friction/brake-discs/?104440858&1&d07afa3de2e13f54f93e82a426d26cfccf70d818&000027 http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2004/p/car-parts/car-brakes/brake-friction/brake-discs/?104440868&1&1945df0e618c35750b0f08907eec64c74abe140f&000027 http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2004/p/car-parts/car-brakes/brake-friction/brake-pads/?101440718&1&ea486cb425fffbe8eb4407dc5eb4f42411d6dcbc&000036 http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2004/p/car-parts/car-brakes/brake-friction/brake-pads/?101440328&1&09a4fb5e52784b28438325e25806081e9956b4da&000036 http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2004/p/car-parts/car-brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-fluids/?524770270&1&d4d8cb8e0cf495f0de055b106e35e6a26fcbdb2e&000989

I made the same mistake as you, I bought an aero wiper for the rear before realising it was a bloody push fit! I bought one of these off eBay in the end - http://bit.ly/14tpV6a It's been perfect so far, very pleased with it.

I'd play it carefully with the seller, I'm pretty sure he has no legal responsibility to do anything about it. If you can get any money towards the repair, that's good going in my opinion.

Wow, that 3M stuff looks great! I'd love to see a pic of the whole console if you wrap the rest

Took it for a drive yet? It clears itself after a few miles

It fits quite well, the part of the boot nearest the hatch where it flares out isn't perfect but it's not too bad at all imo.

How does the clutch feel differ with a SMF conversion?