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theezenutz

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Posts posted by theezenutz

  1. That's why I wanted to know what people has actually weighed them at. As there's so many different weights. They do seem very heavy for a little car. My old Saxo vts many years ago must off weighed around 850kgs.

    If there 1315kgs. my target would be 1250kgs. Without losing the back seats. Just to lose some off the bulk. :-).

    Get yourself a mk1 Golf or even a mk2 and fit your engine in it, you will have an absolute weapon without needing to rip out all the stuff that gives it some level of refinement.

     

    Mk1 golf weighs about the same as your saxo did but you gain much more street cred, a mk2 weighs about a ton depending on which version.

     

    Probably not viable for you but the I love the idea of little weight and much torque.

  2. Hi theeezenutz, I have one of these bolted to the back of the rear seats, I am tempted to move it to under the passenger seat to get it into the cabin but I think it will get in the way of rear passenger feet.

     

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inphase-USW10-Compact-Active-Subwoofer/dp/B00379UM7M

     

    The MDF spacers have arrived and I have a 2x180w or 2x90w amp I can use to power the new speakers.

     

    Just got to make time to fit it all properly with no rushing.

    What are the depth of your spacers? I had to double mine up to get the clearance.

     

    IMG_0091_zpsaxrlrkyw.jpg

     

    Even then it was touching the window bar which caused one of my speakers to pack up so I had to replace them for a set of Hertz shallow mount. (the morels were 62mm depth)

     

    The most important factor of front speakers is the installation. But regardless your setup should sound much better than the original set up.

  3. Pretty much sums it up, family = no space in boot for amps and subwoofer boxes

     

     

    Have you had a look at a under the seat sub? Something like this http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoofers/hideaway-sub-boxes/focal-integration-ibus-20

     

    To get good amounts of bass from the fronts will require a decent installation of the front speakers i.e Mdf spacers or a complete enclosure preferably, plenty of sound deadening and much trial and error. Much easier to have the sub do that job for you.

     

    For sound deadening speak to these guys they will sort you out. http://www.deadening.co.uk/

     

    Also an amplifier for the front speakers is a must the head unit will not do them justice.

  4. Yes I certainly used similar anti sieze/penetration lubrcant. Even let it settle in with several spray attempts as I didn't rush into removing the ARB clamp.

     

    Though this was lubricants brough since house move a few years ago - and you know those straws, just get lost!

    I think the straws really hence oil penetrate where its needed so may have helped.

     

    Thought as effective as they are, if a bolt is rusted up then there is only so much those light fluids are going to do about it when it comes.

     

    I have to say though in the end to get the thing out I need a lot of heat + oil + more heat and it still squealed like a bitch ( I had to file down the threads on the clamp held in a workbench - so I could get something to purchase them out ). So I seriously doubt just oil alone would have done it, I think its one of those things where anything like that its worth replacing the bolts at least every 5 years.

     

    Also probably better to ensure you copper grease the visible end of threads so they don't corrode making extraction a bitch ? Thats what I've done this time

    I watched a video on youtube once of a guy demonstrating how to remove stubborn or snapped turbo bolts.

     

    He basically heated them up' hit them a few times with a suitable mallet then he poured on some candle wax, basically he said the heat draws in the candle wax which seeps in between the threads making removing the bolts much easier. From memory they still squealed a fair bit though.

  5. Yep Insurance company's know they can get away with it so they will others will catch on eventually.

     

    They tried doing me on my Pulsar. I had an agreed price with them then they tried coming out with all kinds of excuses to chuck another £200 on the premium. I told them where to go.

     

    Once the Fab and Pulsar are gone I am likely done with cars it's getting silly now and most of the fun has been taken away.

     

    Such is life and probably for the best anyways.

    • Like 1
  6. Hi Damien, I'm after a price for a pair of front shocks and springs.

     

    Basically I have a set of Weitec Hicon GT Coilovers fitted to my car, but I have recently discovered that the both the fronts have developed a leak so they will need replacing. I replaced both the rears about 18 months ago to the equivalent re-branded ST's, so ideally I might as well keep them. Can you do me a price for the best bang for buck, equivalent front pair of dampers and springs to match the original Weitec Coilovers that are faulty. I'm looking for a 35mm drop.

     

    Hope that makes sense.

  7. Like with most things and detailing isn't much different, it's subjective. I have 3 or 4 bottles of Shampoo and they are all equally brilliant and I'd find it hard to choose between them. CG make good, affordable products but so do many other company's.

     

    If it works for you that's all that matters.

    • Like 2
  8. Hi just thought I'd post my experience on here.

    I currently have a hybrid vrs running 230bhp 340lb ft.

    I have just bought a mk1 Audi TT 225. On test drive it felt absolutely flat. It was boosting but I did expect a little more. I'm even considering a rolling road to see what power it's making.

    Has anybody else had a similar experience jumping out of a tuned Fabia into something else and feeling somewhat underwhelmed???

    A simple remap will transform that car. I had a mate who brought a remapped Cupra R which was running 265 and he was considerably quicker than mine albeit just a remapped Fabia.

  9. It's the old diesel versus petrol thing.... Torque. I don't know what the specs are on the TT, but I bet it's nowhere near 340 lbft. I'm imagining the powerband on your fabia will be a lot wider than on a turbo'd petrol, so you'll be needing to rev is a lot more than you're used to.

    Not always true it depends on the set up and turbo.

    For example my Fabia the power comes in just below 2k then drops off at just over 3-3.5k.

    The pulsar comes in at around 3-3.5k and will hold up to redline. Much wider power band.

  10. Mate of mine had a TT albeit a 180bhp and standard Fabias left it for dead. I drove another mates 225 and thought that was pretty **** too. Our re-mapped Fabia much quicker where it counts.

    Have heard a few people moaning about their TT's so must be par for the course. They're pants!

    Must have something wrong as a standard Fabia isn't much. I did a standard Fabia off the lights in my old 8v mk2 golf with ease.

  11. So just to confirm. Have you had the clutch changed already by said garage who told you the slave cylinder was faulty then he bodged it and re-fitted the gearbox? And this new post you say you are going to get the clutch changed AGAIN?

     

    You also had the car re-mapped with a boost leak? Yet your mapper didn't pick that up so you'll now going to get it re-mapped again?

     

    Sorry if I've miss read your post's but seriously dude do you just not like money or something?

  12. I use Citrus Wash & Gloss and I love it and will buy again. It's easily up there with the best of them and it's very economical too.

    I've also used Auto Finesse Lather and funnily enough I didn't rate it at all, it did the job I just found myself constantly wanting to grab a different bottle.

    • Like 1
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