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SomewhereInEngland

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  1. If an experienced driver drove my car, then they would probably feel that it drives OK, but has issues. They would notice a general stuttering on acceleration and constant speed at about 2000rpm and on light overrun. In winter, they would definitely notice the diesel rattle. Sudden unexplained power loss would certainly get their attention, however, I have only had that once, but whilst overtaking uphill. The car is more thirsty that it used to be on general driving (about 5% down), but is still capable of very high indicated mpg with skill and luck (78mpg indicated is the best I have had on a commute. 68mpg indicated is usual.). However, hypermiling may be part of the cause of the current problems. The car is a model E with the base level 2.0TDI.
  2. I was told by the Skoda dealer that applied the fix that it couldn't be removed. That was the first thing I asked after the problems occurred. I even rang the helpline and they said no. Once its on its on. However, this is probably a legal stance they have to adopt because they were breaking the law and don't want some smart arse getting the fix taken off and then taking them to court for making a car illegal again. Companies claim to be able to reverse the fix, but I personally don't know if this works or could make the situation worse. I can guess Skoda will not be happy if they find the fix is reversed, and I am guessing their diagnostics will check. I would also guess they will immediately re-apply the fix and tell you it had to be done to complete other work. So, If you do get the fix, don't take that car to a Skoda dealer for maintenance.
  3. Thanks for the replies. CTS and thermostats don't look that costly and are well worth it if it will keep the car on the road. This helps point a direction to the garage so we can start simple. I will get a proper diagnostic check and see where that points. As to economy fuel, I used to stick Shell basic fuel in and the car seemed to work well, until the emissions fix was applied then the economy dropped, the engine would cut out and acceleration got worse. The car also stuttered, misfired and had horrendous rattle on acceleration in winter. It actually had an injector failure within a week of the fix being applied. Skoda have had the car on a number of occasions and seem to think the downgrade in performance is acceptable. Shell VPower seems to have reduced the symptoms and overall the added cost has been offset by improved mpg. I think I may have been one of the unlucky ones. However, I am determined to get this car through 200k miles and a lot further if possible. The reason is that I cannot see as good a replacement on the market at the moment. Pity about the problems, but fundamentally this was a fantastic car for what I wanted (until it got fixed). Its still great, but not as good. Thanks again for the feedback
  4. I have a 2010 Yeti 2.0TDI. Mileage is 186K and it unfortunately had the emissions 'fix' when it came out. Runs on Shell VPower after changing about 9 months ago. I tend to drive economically. I commute 26 miles each way with about 50% being dual carriageway and complete a 65 mile each way fast run once a week. About 2 months ago I was forced to fill with economy fuel. Within a couple of miles the EGR light came on and the car lost acceleration. ODB check indicated an EGR fault. The car will get up to 70mph, but its slow. The hotter the engine the faster it get there and the better the acceleration. The engine will not regen. The car had a full service 2 month prior to the fault. I have run system cleaner through the engine which has improved the situation (DAE tank mix and a inlet spray). I have also run a light high octane petrol mix through at about 500ml per half tank. This seems to help running. What I have discovered is that the car is difficult to get up to temperature. Running at about 2000rpm helps. Over reving draws too much cold air. If I can get up to 85 to 90 degrees on the gauge, I can switch off and back on (whilst driving at constant 60-65mph) the EGR light goes out and usually stays out. The car returns to full performance. I cannot run the heaters at all as it kills the temperature and the EGR goes straight into fault, even at constant RPM and load. Temperature fluctuates quickly between 80 and 90 depending on RPM and driving conditions. Driving up a hill will initiate the fault and it can take longer to get the car to reset. However, sometimes the EGR light will not come on at all and I can complete most of a commute until I get to an engine braking situation, when the EGR sometimes goes into fault. A quick on/off usually resets. I can usually do about 5 miles on the flat before the warning light comes on. This happens as the car get to about 80 degrees. On long runs, the EGR can be at fault but can clear itself if I can keep the engine hot enough for long enough. It has to be at 90 degrees though. The engine temperate never goes above 90 degrees. The fault indicates a very expensive EGR change, which is not what I want for a old but very roadworthy car (who know what will fail next). I have read that there may be an issue with a secondary thermostat, which controls the cooling to the EGR. I am thinking that if this causes the temperature to stay low on the EGR, it will never regen. If I can get a few regens in then the EGR may self clean. Can anyone shed ay light and any suggestions less expensive that a new EGR? Many Thanks John
  5. Hi, This is my first post, so please forgive me if this has already been covered elsewhere or is in the wrong location. My car is a Yeti 2010 1.9TD 2WD. Late last year I had my car serviced, MOT’d and the EA189 applied. Afterward, my perception was that the car had occasional power loss on acceleration or power drop out under steady speed. These issues were very slight and not regular and certainly not distinct enough to be able to book the car in with Skoda with any hope of reproducing them. However, in late January, the car developed bad Diesel Rattle on cold days when accelerating in 2nd gear. This always occurred at 2000RPM. The issue was worse the colder the weather. The issue progressively disappeared as the engine warmed up. I booked the car into my dealer and under Skoda technical direction they adjusted the injectors. On return, the Diesel Rattle was less but now occurred under all loads and in all gears. At 2000RPM the engine lost power badly and would not accelerate correctly. It felt as though a rev limiter had kicked in and was dropping cylinders or the engine was not firing. The symptoms progressively disappeared over 10 miles as the car warmed up to full operating temperature. I returned the car to the dealer, and logged a call with Skoda UK Support. The current situation is that the car has been with the dealer for a week now. The dealer is waiting for Skoda Technical to provide information, but I have been informed that it is being put down to an Injector failure and not related to the EA189 fix. I did suggest rolling back the fix to eliminate this as an issue, but this has not been tried as yet as far as I am aware. Apparently, the above symptoms are as a result of movement in the injector being limited by a mechanical failure or jamming in the injector. Interestingly the problem occurs at 2000RPM irrespective of light or heavy acceleration. It seems to be an engine RPM issue, not a fuel requirement issue. My question is, is an injector failure reasonable, or are Skoda trying to avoid an EA189 related issue? Any guidance on the validity of the injector failure proposal or any questions I should be asking would be most gratefully received. I am aware of post on EA189 issues and the reports on Tiguans, however I would like to be fair on this issue. Many Thanks in advance. John H.
  6. I have found the original source. http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/Secret-new-cars/Search-Results/Spyshots/Skoda-Snowman-and-Yeti-Mk2-two-new-Skoda-4x4s/ Its a bit old, but it does hint Skoda have something in the pipeline to reduce costs. What happens between now and then? I would also guess that although Skoda may wish to sell the Yeti at a price point, competition may force a change. If the new Yeti is a tweak and face lift, then the costs should have been coming out of production as the model stabilised and production deveped. All speculation though. Certianly Skoda have a production through put that they will wish to maintain in order to be efficient and get purchase discounts. The Duster, for example, could impact on this. I still need a minimum of 180K miles on the Fabia, just for personnal satisfation.
  7. I was thinking along the same lines, Yeti vs Duster, so I booked a 4x4 diesel Duster for 2 weeks in Iceland (not the shop). So I will give you some thoughts. Basically we did 2500 miles in 2 weeks covering both tarmac, dirt and Icelands F roads (4 wheel Drive only). I haven't yet looked at the fuel consumption, but it looked Ok compared with 2 previous 4x4 I have hired. Speed limit is 55mph, so no ability to test at UK raod speeds, although I did push it a bit on quiet tarmac. My thoughts are as follows. GOOD It dealt with the bad roads no problem and was able to hammer through washboard and potholes at 50mph without worry. (Washboard and potholes ate main feature of Iceland driving. Even the main ring road is not fully tarmac.) Mostly driven in 2WD and only needed 4WD four times for wet loose hard pack and some uphill steps, big uphill potholes and rivers. Torque was great at the speed we travelled. Eco driving, little hard acceleration. Passengers thought the Duster was roomy and comfortable. Fairly good river wading, althought we bottled a deep fast one. Full size spare wheel. Despite the hammer, nothing failed, fell off or rattled/squeaked. BAD Drivers seat had very poor lumber support. I found this quite painfull and had to move seat forward and tip back. Still uncomfortable. (Euro spec?) Small boot for the size of car. Would have been better to have a swing back door and put the wheel on the outside. Ground clearance under the front axle not as good as first appears. What were they thinking about with the roof bars? Why block off 1/3 of the length leaving such a short mount. Window switches in front console and not on doors. I would get used to this. Slight flat spot developed at 1800RPM. This was my cruising RPM so maybe the way I drove. Another thought. Euro spec Duster is made in Romania I believe whislt the UK spec one will be made in India. New factory, new production line. The Duster is well thought of in Europe, but is production sorted yet? Despite the negatives, I was quite impressed with the Duster. For me, the poor seat and secondly, the boot space is a big issue. For UK driving 4WD would not be required enough to make it worth the extra money as it did very well in 2WD (I guess I could have managed in only 2WD if I had tried). I have read the new Yeti will be cheaper and I am guessing the price of second hand Yetis will drop. On this basis, I am keeping my trusty Fabia Estate going for another 18 - 24 months. Hope this will help someone.
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