joeninho

Success! Bought a new battery, and as soon as I fitted it, all of the warning lights disappeared. So, new wheel bearings, ball joints, track rod ends, ABS sensors and all looking good after a lock to lock reset. Had the tracking done, driven about 200 miles and everything seems to be in good order. Apologies for the tardy update, and massive thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers, Joe.

Hi guys, Just looking for a few opinions here. Bought my wife a 2012 Mk2 Fabia (1.2 Greenline TDI CR CFWA) a couple of weeks ago from a reputable small garage. MIL appeared after about 8-9 days. Comes on for hours then off again. Rinse and repeat. It is throwing 3 codes: P2016 - Intake Manifold Position Sensor (Circuit low) P2015 - Intake Manifold Position Sensor (Range performance) P0672 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit I saw that you can use a bracket to limit the actuator movement on the 2/3 litre engines, although I don't think a similar fix exists for the 1.2. How big an issue are these codes likely to be? Do we require an immediate fix? What would you expect from the dealer that sold us the car in this situation? Is it reasonable to expect a fix? Cheers, Joe. ETA - The dealer is 4 hours away, so having them get their own garage to take a look isn't really an option. Light is now on constantly.

Hi guys, Just looking for a few opinions here. Bought my wife a 2012 Mk2 Fabia (1.2 Greenline TDI) a couple of weeks ago from a reputable small garage. MIL appeared after about 8-9 days. Comes on for hours then off again. Rinse and repeat. It is throwing 3 codes: P2016 - Intake Manifold Position Sensor (Circuit low) P2015 - Intake Manifold Position Sensor (Range performance) P0672 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit I saw that you can use a bracket to limit the actuator movement on the 2/3 litre engines, although I don't think a similar fix exists for the 1.2. How big an issue are these codes likely to be? Do we require an immediate fix? What would you expect from the dealer that sold us the car in this situation? Is it reasonable to expect a fix? Cheers, Joe. ETA - The dealer is 4 hours away, so having them get their own garage to take a look isn't really an option.

Thanks guys, Appreciate the input. The sensors are both new. rum4mo, I took your advice on your earlier thread and bought new sensors in advance of the bearing job. I have to say though, due to the hole in the hub being a bit corroded, I am not sure it went fully in. It was a struggle to tighten the Allen key to seat it properly. In fact, I think I left a little gap as I didn't want to risk breaking the new sensor. Also, I carefully scraped around inside the sensor hole with a pick tool and small screwdriver with the new bearing installed, so not sure if I may have scraped/damaged the tone ring, or if I just need to take it out and try some precision cleaning to ensure it's seated properly. The issue is with the bearing that I installed second, Pete. Need to get better at cleaning up corroded parts and realising that some parts need precision fitting. Like these bloody sensors! Every day is a learning day.

Well, Chaps... I celebrated a hollow victory tonight... I was busy high fiving myself after managing to crack both jam nuts and install the new TREs. Got everything reassembled. Drove the car and it lit up like a Christmas tree. Things to note: Battery has been flat for a week. Dead. Started with jump starter gizmo, which started car right away. When you turn it off, it's stone dead again. Currently charging on repair mode. Apparently, the power steering pump can fail to engage if the battery is low. Forgot to tighten master cylinder cap when I got on the move. Balls up on my part. Three lights on. ABS, Power Steering, Brake Light/Fluid (Flashing Red). 3 beeps for good measure. Fluid level is fine. Ancel threw up front right speed sensor code. Torture!

Not had a chance to give it a good go yet, Pete, as we've been out today. About to have another go shortly. Still not entirely sure I'm turning it the right way, even though I thought my logic above was sound! Good suggestion about turning the TRE, I'll give that a try.

Hi guys, I'm at desperation stage here. Changed bearings on the car. Ball joints also changed. The threads on my TREs were goosed from getting the busy off, so I bought new ones to replace them. My issue is the jam nuts. I have watched/read pretty much everything that's out there, yet these things won't budge. Tried heat, spray etc. Is it definitely clockwise for both to loosen them off you are looking at the hub from the outside of the wheel arch? Lefty loosey when looking from the inside of the wheel. Drivers side loosen by turning towards the front of the car and passenger side turn toward the rear of the car. I can't really get much purchase on them as the wheel arch is in the way. Zero progress so far. Any ideas? I have considered replacing the inner rods too, although it will be a full car rebuild at this rate!

Totally agree that the split part clamp wedging between the new bearing and the housing is a concern, although perhaps operator error on my part by not cleaning up the hub housing more fastidiously before proceeding. The inner diameter of the silver clamps is perhaps a snug fit for a newish housing, whereas with some rust it may have wedged against it, although you would hope that the manufacturer would account for this. Also, when I snapped the allen bolt off, the silver clamps fell loose, which suggests it was wedged on to the hub carrier as opposed to being wedged between the new bearing and the carrier. For anyone taking on this job, I would also suggest that you go slowly with the press and regularly check that the allen bolts on the silver clamp are tight. They can work themselves loose a bit as you progress with the job. Is anyone able to change the title of the thread to something more fitting? It may make it easier to find in future. Maybe something as simple as 'Front wheel bearing change'

Once again, brute force wins the day. Snapped the press bolt in two using a heavy duty Allen key. Both bearings look well seated to me. Fairly certain that I have used the tool correctly, which is all black parts for removal and all silver parts for installation. Based on the instructions above, I am left wondering if the colours may vary depending on where you buy the tool.

I used the black ones to pull the old bearings out and the silver ones to put them in. This is what I saw on one of the videos I watched, although I have real reservations now!

The wheel bearing gods have not been kind... Did the other bearing tonight. The two metal plates from the tool are wedged against the hub. Definitely can't remove with the allen key, which is now goosed. On a positive note, the allen bolts appear to be good quality. Any thoughts? Try and pry it apart with the little gap between the tool plates? Drill out the allen bolts.

Right then, chaps. Does this bearing look like it's seated correctly? It was one hell of a job to get it in! Probably the hardest I've worked on a car mission. On the vids I watched, they say listen for the click of the circlip engaging. Didn't hear any click. Does that matter?

Probably a good idea, as we just picked up another 2011 Fabia last week!

Where is the best place to get torque specs for the car? Am I best just buying the factory service manual?

Awesome, Pete. Super helpful. Looks like replacing the swivels is the only way to go here. I will report back when I've had a go.

This is entirely possible, Pete. Every day is a learning day! As it stands, I am now ready to do the wheel bearings... Sort of. Just need to try and punch the sheared bolts out. Can these bolts be bought on their own? Or do they only come with the lower swivel? Cheers, Joe.

Dude, this is massively helpful. Thank you. Should I be replacing the lower swivels when doing this job?

Good advice. One of the issues is that I am struggling to find the genuine parts! Can't find the part number online.

Should they be M10s, given that the nuts came off with a 15mm socket?

So, I managed to shear off all 6 bolts on the wishbone arms of our Roomster. Intentionally, as they would not budge. Can anyone tell me the bolt/nut sizes for the 3 holes on the wishbones? Also I need two new nuts for the track rod ends. I am struggling to find the sizes online. Do I need OEM parts for these or will aftermarket do the job? Cheers, Joe.

Hi guys, I am trying to replace both front wheel bearings on my wife's Roomster. I currently have two issues: 1: Getting the spindle out of the track rod end. It won't budge, even with heat, penetrating oil and some serious hammer blows. 2: Removing the 3 bolts from the control arm to loosen off the hub. These bad boys won't budge. I have read that heating in both cases and then immediately shocking with penetrating fluid can help to get them out, as the heat then cold creates a vacuum to draw the penetrating oil in and break the rust bond. I have also read that you can often pop the spindle out using the two hammer method with the vibrations often knocking it loose. Or use a jack at the hub to take the pressure off the control arm. Anything else I can try? It's looking like a full weekend at this at the moment! Cheers, Joe.

Massively helpful info here, guys. Hugely appreciated. Duly noted about the forcing pins and ABS sensors. I will order some additional pins and hope for the best with the sensors! Either way, I now know where to find them. I have ordered all of the kit to give it a go over the next week or so. I will post my progress. Thanks again, Joe.

Hi guys, I am looking for a recommendation for a tool to do the front wheel bearings on our Roomster. The pictured tool is used on a video I watched online, which seemed to work fine, although according to reviews, the quality is questionable. Has anyone used this tool? Or could you recommend an alternative? I know a lot of people say take it to the shop for a wheel bearing, but with 173k on the clock and an MOT due, I'm keen to keep the costs down! Cheers, Joe.

Thanks Warrior. Much appreciated. I can't be certain that the 4th one came from my car. One of them was stuck and it took them some time to remove it. They said that the faulty one was knackered, as it was stuck. I just got a box with all the parts. Perhaps they had tried that other one as they had it on hand. How would I go about repairing the hole?

Here are the injectors... Why is one different to the others? Many thanks, Joe.