warbuli

@KenONeill Yes I have haha. I have got an OBD1 port reader and had reset the throttle body a few times so its not a problem. I was just wondering if it would make a difference. P.S. Is there a thread detailing how to re-code an ecu? I had bought one from a scrapyard and would like to have it working with my key. Thanks

@KenONeill sure thanks. I did not know about this feature. Just a quick update. I had received the SKF bearings and fitted them to the car. Following the procedure provided by @RicardoM (found the others to be totally destroyed) So far it seems like the new ones are holding up with no issues. A few weeks after my secondhand battery died so I bought a new one and I did not have any more starting/cranking issues. I was still having starting issues/hesitation when cold and some flat spots whilst running. I bought a new temperature sensor (with Yellow circle) and a crank positioning sensor. I first changed the crank positioning sensor ( the old one had a dent in it ) and found that it had some metal filings stuck to it. After changing the CPS I noticed that it was starting way better and most of the flat spots also stopped occurring. After a few weeks, I changed the temperature sensor. I noticed the temperature to rise quicker and to stay slightly higher than what it used to mark. Performance and starting also improved. So far so good. I have also noticed that it's not over-fueling (way less popping from the exhaust and no more backfires). It is still starting with low idle at times when cold. Do you suggest checking the throttle body and resetting it?

Thanks for that. I meant to check the current drawn for a while but never knew how to do it. With regards the rear bearings: I have some stuff in the trunk... spare wheel, jack, toolbox and some speakers but nothing super heavy. The thing that may have also affected the bearings was the fact that I had lowered the car using lowering springs by 4cm. But since then I put it back to stock height so will have to see if the new bearings will last longer now. I just bought SKF bearing kit and will change them when they arrive. Usually we tighten the nut until there is some friction when you try to turn the drum so that its not loose but not too tight.

I have Lenso gt-r wheels. From the looks of it the offset is around 35-40 (not sure if correct). Is this too much from standard? I am getting around 9,000 km out of the bearings. I am thinking that maybe the bearings are not so good because they don't even come with a new bearing cap (certainly not cheap though).

Small Update... As soon as I started to check voltages and unplugging the battery every night (in case something was draining the battery), I started having to jump start the car almost every day. Since then I have changed the battery and the car is now cranking way faster and starting up first try with minimal issues. Engine hesitates just as soon as it starts and for a few micro seconds. In the mean time I am still noticing cases when the engine cuts out whilst driving so I will be monitoring the fuel pump and wiring gremlins that might be causing the issues. thanks again for your help I will keep you posted if I change/ find something else that is wrong. P.S. I am finding myself having to change rear wheel bearings almost every year (both sides). I am running the car with 195 width Tyers. Could this be an issue? or maybe I am using bearings that are being manufactured using inferior materials? What make do you suggest? Thanks.

Thanks for this. I will check the voltage tomorrow morning again and if its the same I will change the battery. So far after changing the regulator, morning starts have become worse. It turns and as soon as the engine kind of turns on it shuts off immediately. Then I try to turn it on again and it does the same. After 3-5 times it starts and runs fine. What I have noticed: After trying to start it the first time, if i turn the ignition off and on I hear the fuel pump running but it never stops running. Sometimes very rarely, whilst I am driving and try to accelerate it kind of bogs down and comes back to normal instantly. Maybe the fuel regulator is going bad? I have a space engine loom with the lambda plug cut off which I will be fixing, checking and trying very soon to eliminate the possibility of having bad wiring issues and let you know how it all goes. Thanks again for all the help

Yes it does.

Update: Checked the voltage regulator today and it had almost no points left... Luckily I have a spare alternator that I had refurbished recently and it has a new voltage regulator... Swapped it and the alternator is now throwing 14.05v at idle and goes down to around 13.9v when engine is revved. It still did not start properly although the new voltage regulator still had to seat properly so I will see what happens this afternoon. I did notice the engine to run smoother with no bogging though so hopefully I solved something. Battery: Date is listed as: 05/14 so it is getting a bit old Checked voltage before starting the car up and its around 11.75v With regards to Error code 00537 I will look into the points that you provided. Thanks again

Thanks for your fast reply. The voltage regulator was the one that came with the second hand alternator that i bought off a 40,000 km motor and from what I remember its contact points are a bit shorter than when new. The battery is a tad old (maybe 4 years old ) I will check tomorrow morning could it be causing these issues? With regards to changing stuff. That is what I was doing. In fact I came here as a last resort because I have been at it for the last 3 months I think. And yes I did clean the pressure/ air temperature sensor.

Hi all, I am recently having some issues with my Felicia 1.3mpi (68kw) engine and hope that maybe you could give me some pointers on what I could check or do to fix them. 1st Problem: Cold start: This happens whenever the car has been sitting for a long time say 9 - 10 hours both indoors (garage) and outdoors (at work) once!. When I try to start the car in most cases the engine starts.. barely with very low revs (100-200 ish) for a few seconds (say 2-8 seconds) and then comes to life as if nothing happened. Whilst it is low revving if I press the gas pedal it dies but if I blip the throttle in most cases I manage to get it to rev normally. After this ordeal it Revs ok and if I turn it off an try to start it again it starts fine. In some cases after starting if I rev it say to 3.5k let it drop and around 1.5k press the gas pedal it kind of hesitates to rev back up and in some cases causes some backfires (inside the throttle body) 2nd issue: This happens whilst driving mostly between 1.8 - 2k revs anytime although I have noticed it more whenever I drive with the lights on. Driving between 1.8k - 2k revs with no particular heavy load or trying to accelerate, I feel the engine as if it is loosing and regaining power rapidly (making the car rock very subtle not violent ). What I also notice is the headlamps flickering. It is very hard to describe this.. This is what I have done so far: Checked for error codes using OBD1: Found one error: 00537 - Lambda oxygen sensor Regulation 19-10 - Lower Limit - Intermittent I observed this error code before the mentioned issues started happening and keeps showing up even after clearing it up and changing the lambda sensor twice. (currently have a new one fitted) Did a full service including: Oil, oil filter, air filter, sparkplugs, coolant, and the pesky fuel filter near the fuel tank. Cleaned throttle body and reset it. Changed Coil Pack to a fairly unused one. Checked if coolant was entering cylinders by: Checking water level in tank: stays the same level Removing plugs and they where bone dry Cranking engine with spark plugs off and injectors unplugged: No vapor or liquid of any kind was observed to come out of spark plug holes. Checked for mayo in oil cap: found none. Changed crank sensor and coolant sensor. Checked wiring loom plugs for corrosion. Found a tiny bit of green corrosion in lambda sensor plug (female side) and cleaned it off as best as I could with a very small bottle wire brush looking thingy and contact cleaner. Same for Map sensor plug Checked alternator output: no load at idle : fluctuates between 14 - 14.7v With lights and blower running at full blast at idle, the reading was 11.4v if i rev up it rises to 14v P.s. I was checking parameters whilst the engine was running and in Group 5 I was noticing two different temperature values. is this normal? (I have attached a screenshot) Also not sure if relevant, however my catalytic convertor is hollowed out so basically it is a straight through pipe. Sorry for the long post but I tried to include as much detail as possible. If you need running logs please let me know which group channels and I will record a run from home to work or back with those values. Thanks in advance.

Fit a 16b rotary engine! haha i always wondered if it was possible

The sender is in the fuel tank... There is an access port underneath the rear driver side seats which you can open to find the sender unit

Yes they are interchangeable. I used a felicia starter for my favorit engine (the updated version)

did you check ebay? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=skoda+felicia+1.3+mpi&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc

Well i dont know if this is reliable or not but i had found this website and was super uber interested in the parts that it offers! it has limited slip diff's 6 speed gearboxes etc http://www.motorsportshop.cz/category/samosvorne_lamelove_diferencialy/34.html