davidwhite

waveydavey79 to be fair any used car will ( at least at some point ) have issues, the trick is to fine out if it has them currently and that’s why it’s for sale ? guessing if it’s a 1.9 tdi you’re seeking it’s going to be at least 14 years old so whilst a dealer purchase does give some peace of mind and comeback there’s not many that’ll consider putting a 14 year old car on their forecourt to lessen risks a fsh especially oil and filter changes are beneficial indeed some would say a must, cheap cars are that for a reason, they’re nearing the end of economical use, there’s something wrong already or a fault pending ( it’s so easy to clear faults these days ) certainly if you are not doing journeys of at least 10 miles ( preferably more ) I’d avoid diesel especially cars with dpf it’s a issue waiting to happen ( even if your journeys are sufficiently long some ( not all by accounts ) diesels regularly regenerate or require one which has to go against better mpg I’ve been looking for a 1.9 fabia estate for about a year now ( wanting a cheap fishing wagon ) they are getting thin on the ground, at least any that I’d consider worth travelling to look at

Hi bit of a long shot but I recently traded this car in with a garage near Scarborough North Yorkshire and note that it is on EBay with a trader near Hull if anybody is interested in this car I’d be happy to advise and pass on my 7 year knowledge of it ( warts and all which haven’t been declared on the eBay listing ! )

Annoyingly the bulb light came on again this morning but extinguished when it stopped and didn’t come back on when I restarted the car to do return trip I’ve got no other ( obvious ) faults my local tame garage owner is retiring very soon I may bite the bullet and get a full health check done ( on the car that is 😀 ) cars about to clock 100k and it’s now 12 years old so it’s really in the ‘ make your mind up time ‘ stage run it until it dies or buy newer but unknown car ?

Thanks for the further input a ) I’ll double check all the bulbs again b ) I’ll ask tame garage owner if I ( we ) can plug it into his reader c ) I’ll check the warning light does indeed go out following turning the ignition off ( I’m pretty certain it does ) i leaning towards thinking that as the boot interior lights aren’t turned on when the tailgate is opened that the relevant micro switch isn’t functional thus the resistance of those two bulbs has been bypassed long term therefore the recognised ‘ normal ‘ all bulbs healthy resistance value has been compensated ? Might just have the car read for any fault codes stored then do a reset and recheck after ( if ) the warning bulb comes back on

Thanks for the replies and info content I’ve checked every bulb each previous time the light out bulb has illuminated every one is fully functional including the high level break light I don’t have maxi dot display ( or at least full info display ) which I think was optional, 09 facelift elegance model however since I changed the tailgate I’ve no boot interior lights ( issue with micro switch on lock ? I believe but it’s a faff to remove the trim I’ve been warned ) however common sense says that if those lights out were causing an issue the warning bulb would be permanently on ( and I’ve had the warning bulb occasionally before the tailgate was changed I vaguely recall reading the warning bulb could be linked to something else if all lights proved functional ( faulty glow plug or injector maybe ?? ) thought I read it on here but ........

Sorry if this has been done before but I can’t find what I’m looking for in the archives I vaguely ( it’s old age creeping up ! ) remember reading that this symbol also meant something else if all the bulbs were fully functional but I can’t remember what it might indicate I get the light come on every now and then never two start ups on the trot but it has come on twice in the last 10 or so start ups, when it illuminates it says on until the ignition turns off any help much appreciated thank you

Nice to read you found a solution I have a FL 09 estate and find the front seats becoming more uncomfortable as both they and I age !! as said elsewhere Volvo seat provide supreme comfort but I just bring myself to buy a Volvo always fancied an Audi we have a family member who swears buy them but I can’t justify the premium price outlay so my question is which year Audi seats fit your ( thus mine ) Octavia ( I’m not bothered about the rears mines an estate a more often than not I can’t be bothered to lift the rear seats back up )

If I was in your position I’d be advertising the car for sale in local shop windows for sale sign in car window facebook gumtree word of mouth in the first instance every day some unfortunates have an accident or car failure those people still need to get to work etc etc hence they’ll need a local car in a hurry ( if you haven’t advertised yours they ain’t going to know it’s available price ? 64000 $ question honest answer “ what the buyers prepared to pay “ ! sounds daft, not at all if they’re looking they’ll have a budget so a car has got to fall within their price band yet be competitively priced ( haven’t done any research myself but I can’t see it being worth a fortune so the fact it’s had an insurance repair recorded isn’t going to hugely affect the price, declare it if asked but I guess 70% of cars for sale have had a repair or paint at some point ) How to price it ? compare like for like ( ish ) in autotrader eBay get a quote from webuyandcar etc ( remember prices differ from location to location and certainly on the condition of the ( a good clean up in and out can add £100s to a car ( indeed many traders make a living flipping cars with just a days detailing work ) best advice be realistic with you asking price ( would you pay THAT for it ? ) don’t try to be Arther Daley or Dellboy it don’t work unless it’s on the telly, don’t be frightened to say no to an unacceptable ‘ offer ‘ put it up for sale at the beginning of a month ( if possible ) you have already lost that months car tax refund ! and don’t leave to the last minute to sell ( better to have to organise a lift or accept you may need a taxi for essential journeys that have two cars that require insurance ) PS I’m not a car salesman or a trader if just bought and sold more cars than average and you learn as you go

Thanks for the heads up I’ll have a look into your recommendation ( or at least I’ll question my garage mechanic if he’s using the best option ! )

Hi thanks for the reply guys maybe I didn’t make my question clear enough I’m kind of thinking that the oil used in my car has been subjected to 5k miles ( normal use 13 miles to and from work couple of time a week rest on journeys of at least 10 miles each way ) in that year but is it not the same oil used in cars on a 20k service plan ? Or Does oil have a one year shelf life once it’s in the car ?

Straight forward question ( I think ) my car has been serviced every year inc full oil and filter change ( last serviced 3/6/20 @ 94262 miles using Syner Z 5w30 oil following a full engine flush ! ) to date the car has cover just 4700 ish miles since now the car is 12 years old but remained in very good condition and still does what it says on the tin probably worth more to me than is potential selling value ( and no dpf handy considering my low miles usage ) DO I need to have the oils and filter changed annually from this point forward ? thanks for any replies much appreciated

Footnote wife has reminded me that an old car we had used to give her car sickness never, had before suffered before or since, right from her very first drive ( I bought the car for her ) reason was found to be a defect in the windscreen glass right in her line of vision !

Hi might pay to work out if it’s the car effecting you or some other reason I had a serious case of car sickness as a child but once I started driving I found I was generally ok ( still get nauseous if rear seat passenger though ) but after many years I was feeling seriously sick after only a mile or so found out it’s was an incorrect prescription in one lease of my ‘ new ‘ driving glasses !! Could be something just a simple for you ?

Applying logic as russ17 suggests would imply that both motors have the same fault ? Do the luggage compartment lights work because since changing my tailgate mine don’t and I’m led to believe the fault is on one of the tailgate lock mechanism micro switches ( haven’t checked yet but on the ‘ to do ‘ list when better weather arrives )

Bit of light reading and hopefully a source of discussion bit of history I've driven diesels since 1983 as part and parcel of my job, service engineer, as company vehicles ( and more recently last 20 years or so as private ownership both mine and the wife’s ) and I was always of the opinion that it was better to drive them sedately ( likely for mpg and company accounting ) yet I was chatting to ex garage owner and long term mechanic yesterday who was asking after my own car ( he knows it etc etc ) and he insisted that ‘ all diesels ought to be driven “ hard “ for longevity including my 09 Octavia !! whats the opinion of other diesel driver ( I appreciated the more modern dpf cars operate better with more spirited driving or so far I’m told that’s the case ) not that I’m likely to buy a dpf diesel ( approx 5000 private mileage even less this year like many others I guess )

Logically it’s the lock that’s the most likely culprit ( especially as there’s two different units ) if the weather had been more accommodating today I’d have had a try already but it’s persistently raining proper really gets you wet stuff too and I can practice trim removal on the original tail gate to access the original lock ( ain’t I the lucky one !! )

Hi for easy and quickness of the refit I had the complete tailgate assembly swapped and its existing wiring loom reconnected into the multi plug adaptors in the rear passenger side panel of the luggage compartment ( what a faff it is to remove the trim ! ) so it could well be either the tailgate lock micro switch or ( and didn’t know this ) possibly the rear wiper motor so thanks for your input

Thanks for this and the other reply very much appreciated yes my car is 09 and the replacement tailgate was the believe from a 12 plate car ( not sure what spec but mines the elegance if that makes any difference ? ) as said elsewhere I will have a proper look when the weather improves cheers and many many thanks for your input

Yes the did work before I changed the tailgate 😀 much appreciate the advice ( guessing I’ll need to remove the plastic trip to access the lock mechanism ) I’ll have a play when we get some decent weather ( and I don’t NEED the car ) so maybe over Christmas

Hi i did a thread on this some time back no body repair shop would touch it apparently the rust comes from inside the panel, as suggested you can attempt to clean up the rust but I was warned it ( rust ) will come back I replaced mine with a secondhand one

Following on from my loss of luggage lights following the replacement of the original tailgate ( and original battery, why does doing one job always make others ? ) can anybody tell me how many micro switches are there on the tailgate lock assembly there must be at least one the open / closed icon on the instrument cluster works if there’s two that maybe why the luggage compartment lights don’t work ? ( note the use of maybe ...........

Hi update, tried disconnecting battery and left disconnected for a good half hour reconnected +ve first then -ve as per user manual no change still no luggage compartment lights so either I dismantle all the interior trim and check the wiring ( which isn’t on the same loom as the recent tailgate replacement but is routed in the same area, well for one luggage compartment light anyway ) in case I’ve disturbed something ( but the tailgate light shows on instrument cluster when tailgate is open or i I bite the bullet and visit Skoda for a diagnostic check or I buy a torch and leave it in the luggage compartment answers on a postcard ( well you got to laugh it off ain’t you )

Nothing to lose, there’s also an old trick of disconnecting both battery leads shield them from the battery and any bodywork and put a jump lead between the two wires ( allegedly this sends any stored power down to earth ) it does indeed seem that it’s unlike for there to be more than one wire coming off the lock micro switch so if the instrument panel shows tailgate open ( or closed ) you’d think the info must be going into the convenience module ? what ever happened to 12 volts feed via a switch through the bulb and down to earth guessing I’m giving my age away now ps thanks for taking the time to advise much appreciated

Sorry I should have stated yes it does ? and closed when it’s closed. Hope that helps I’m getting a bit flustered with it now thinking of re rigging up the original tailgate to the wiring loom to see if the lights work ( guess I’d have to put an earth on to free standing original tailgate ? ( will be a bloody pain getting to the wiring loom isn’t a 5 minute job )

Bit of a different angle at my previous question ( no luggage compartment lights ) since I replaced my battery ( and tailgate unfortunately just to muddy the water ) I no longer have luggage compartment lights when I open the tailgate I’ve had to reset the auto window closing via the key fob as per the owners manual all other interior lights are as before as are external lights I’ve checked the bulbs in the holders by disconnecting the holders and wiring to a direct 12 volt source checked voltage at bulb holders when in situ and they always have a voltage ( 12.3 ish ) to earth, so guessing the boot-open micro switch on the tailgate lock induces a current to the bulbs via the convenience module ( because I can’t fathom out any other explanation !! ) ( so does the convenience modular need resetting ( as per window positions ) following battery replacement or should the battery be left disconnected for a period to allow residual voltage drain I don’t mind admitting I’m stumped even though I’m an electrician/alarm engineer