TeflonTom

Skoda part number for the bolt is N0104457
Part number for the nut is N10286102
It's about £2 from the dealer parts department, when taking out the outer cv joint you must use a new driveshaft nut too, if you Re use an old one it will work loose!
It is m10x45mm but the thread is only 20mm long, the plain unthreaded section engages with a slot machined onto the pin on the ball joint so you must use a bolt with the correct dimensions.
A2 stainless is NOT suitable for this application, you must use high tensile steel for all steering and suspension related components, high tensile is denoted by the number 10.8 stamped on the head of the bolt.

I have bought cheap ebay radiators before and they have been ok, I was surprised how good they were in fact. £16 is not a massive amount if money to take a punt on though.
were you down at jkm motor services the other day? I spotted a truck that looked like the one in your avatar with the white and orange.

Rad switch loom is a seperate sub loom that plugs in drivers side down in the bottom corner of the radiator next to the airbox, the wires run along the bottom of the rad to the temperature switch and to the fan, it's basically a permanent live and a ground, and the switch makes the circuit which brings the fan on., somewhat unhelpful that the plug for the drivers side fog light is in exactly the same place and that's also a 2 pin plug too, chech the wire colours!
The 3 pin plug on the f shape bracket on the thermostat housing is for knock sensor on the back of the engine block, it's another short sub loom about 30 cm long that goes from there to the circular sensor in the middle of the block.
hope this helps

Yes and no...
it depends on a few operating conditions.. Vacuum measure at the map sensor, and rpm, there is a preset level for both at which the fueling cuts off, typically speaking it is around 1500rpm on most ecu's but it does vary, so for example if you are doing 5000rpm and you lift off, the idle switch in the throttle body closes which tell the ecu the throttle is shut fueling is cut off, then when the rpm drops below 1500rpm is switches back on again, and there is a similar logic for the vacuum level too. Also as a side note to this it retards the igniton timing when it's under heavy vacuum too, in this condition if the fueling stayed on then you would get lots of pops and bangs and possibly backfires in the exhuast system which could melt the catalytic convertor.
hope this helps.

A little dab of copper slip is the best thing for that, spark plugs don't need to be super tight, just follow the instructions on the spark plug packaging.
The outside diameter of the fuel hose is Approx 13mm, I would normally use good quality stainless steel ones under the car so that they are easy to undo again in the future if needed otherwise they get pretty rusty.

Right ok got it, yes you will need the hub from an abs model then, it has an extra hole drilled for the abs sensor, it can come from any abs felicia both petrol or diesel, the driveshafts and hubs are the same.

It's hard to say really, modifications don't really add or subtract from the value of a car to be honest, it's only ever worth what somebody will pay, however these fun truck are going to start shooting up in value pretty soon as they start getting rarer, I bet it would work really well with aircon in there because it's such a small area to cool down.

Parts 16 to 21 are a part of the steady bar that attaches to the side of the gearbox casing, it's there to allow the gear stick assembly to move in relation to the movement of the engine as the weight moves back and forth.
the bit which is causing your slackness is the parts that come out of the bottom of the stick and then goes forward via a universal joint. Part 33 is the piece which connects to the gearbox using a roll pin (38), on first diagram you put up this connects to part 23, the roll pin goes through the hole at the end.