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Gear linkage part identification

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I'm trying to order parts to repair the sloppy gear change on my 1999 1.9D Felicia - the dealer has provided me with the following schematic:

 

3FCv840Q.png?1029

 

I'm already ordering part 22 to stop the gearbox oil leak - what else do I need?  It's not clear from the diagram which parts relate to the gearbox end of the linkage, where the vast amount of play is (in the joint).

 

I know there are a few threads about this but lots of them reference Jorily which doesn't appear to be trading any more, or quote multiple random part numbers that I can't relate to items on this diagram!

Edited by gmrtn14

Those parts are all internal to the gearbox, they make up the shift mechanism. 22 is the selector shaft oil seal and 21 is the dust cover...

you need a different diagram for the gear linkage.

  • Author

Ah, that'll explain why I don't recognise any of it! :D

Glad I've found the seal I need though...

  • Author

711030.png

I assume I need 16, 17, 18, 19, 21 ? :)

  • Author

Actually, maybe not - it's been a while since I've been under the car poking at the linkage!

  • Author

Photo of the whole linkage assembly here:

http://www.vltava2000.cz/shops/9206/images-goods/6U0711023A.jpg

 

It's the lower bit with the square joint on the end that rattles around a load, so I actually need all of the bits at the end of the rod shown as (30) on the diagram I previously posted?

Edited by gmrtn14

Parts 16 to 21 are a part of the steady bar that attaches to the side of the gearbox casing, it's there to allow the gear stick assembly to move in relation to the movement of the engine as the weight moves back and forth.

the bit which is causing your slackness is the parts that come out of the bottom of the stick and then goes forward via a universal joint. Part 33 is the piece which connects to the gearbox using a roll pin (38), on first diagram you put up this connects to part 23, the roll pin goes through the hole at the end.

  • Author

Parts 16 to 21 are a part of the steady bar that attaches to the side of the gearbox casing, it's there to allow the gear stick assembly to move in relation to the movement of the engine as the weight moves back and forth.

the bit which is causing your slackness is the parts that come out of the bottom of the stick and then goes forward via a universal joint. Part 33 is the piece which connects to the gearbox using a roll pin (38), on first diagram you put up this connects to part 23, the roll pin goes through the hole at the end.

 

Excellent, thanks - I'll get onto the dealer and hopefully finally manage to firm up the gear change and stop the box leaking while I'm at it!

when you get the parts could you post pics of them with the part number please.

  • Author

when you get the parts could you post pics of them with the part number please.

 

Certainly.  Awaiting a response from the dealer to confirm availability.

Certainly.  Awaiting a response from the dealer to confirm availability.

any update on parts and price`s yet?

interested in this as i have a "sloppy"  gear linkage !

  • Author

Going to pick up the parts this afternoon - it's around £16 inc VAT I believe and they took a couple of days to arrive.

  • Author

So, we have:

6U0711893A - Sleeve - £6.51 

N0137671 - Expanding Nut - £0.70

6U0711458 - Pin - £1.55

N90043201 - Seal x2 - £1.26

N90362001 - O Ring x2 - £3.32

N10439701 - Pin - £0.23

 

002301227B - Gasket (Gearbox oil seal) - £1.29

 

Total £17.83 inc vat.

great stuff thanks for posting them.

I had a much more cut price approach on a recent Felly. The play was all in the U/J at the gearbox end of the linkage. Solution was to remove linkage, drill out riveted pins (which I think were 8mm dia?) bore out bushes and fork ends to 9.5mm and fit 3/8"UNF bolts and nylock nuts with a good dose of copper based grease. Other than being the skinflint method, it saved a huge amount of time and has the added advantage of providing a relatively quick release gear linkage in the future. :o)

You would still have needed your seals and gaskets, of course.

  • Author

That sounds good for those looking for a cheaper solution - don't suppose you managed to take some photos of it?

I'm going to write a guide for replacing with OE parts when I get round to it (hopefully this weekend) but it'd be good to have the cheaper solution available for anyone in the future too.

  • Author

I've reassembled the linkage with the new joint, ready to go back on the car.  Pics/guide coming soon.

Unfortunately the car is still on stands on the driveway because, upon taking the selector rod oil seal off, it crumbled into a million pieces and there's still some in there, stopping the new seal from being pushed in.  Ran out of time last night so had to give up scraping out little bits of seal and leave the car. Costs me about twice as much in fuel to use my other car for my 130 mile commute so I need it back on the road ASAP! :(

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