Octyvrs03

This one for me runs the central locking (but not for the boot) plus the mirror motors and heating element.

Nevermind, I'm talking pish. Took the car for a longer drive and left foot braking did nothing to the revs. Guess my car is too old for that feature after all. I swear though, perhaps through my own delusion, that after I put in the cruise control it did drop the revs, at least in my imagination! I also mean when CC was switched off. I'm definitely mistaken though.

Just curious because I happened to retrofit cruise control this week. Before I did though, I stumbled onto this thread and read about the revs dropping when pressing brake and accelerator at the same time. I tried it in mine and nothing happened. Revs didn't drop if I tried to left foot brake. Then I ended up down the rabbit hole of "do I have a faulty brake switch" threads. In the end I chanced it and fitted the cruise control, activated the vcds code and the cruise works perfectly and cuts off when pressing the brake. So my brake switch is fine. I retested the left foot braking method and now the revs drop too. I wonder if OP has cruise control and disables it vcds it would solve the rev drop conundrum.

Do you have cruise control installed by any chance?

Think I've got to the bottom of it. Managed to get these connection blocks apart. Couldnt do it before as I didn't know how to remove them from the plastic holder. Turns out they just slide out with a bit of persuasion. The pink and black blocks are mostly fine, needed a little clean. I'm not sure exactly but I think they're for the rear wiper and some lights? The yellow block however was gutted inside. Some pins missing and wires popped out. I'm going to trim the wires and put them in a new block, probably a water resistant one. As for the wire condition in the rubber boot in the tailgate, I haven't checked continuity yet owing the destroyed ends of the yellow block. However, when the tailgate is open, the wire loom in the rubber boot is pulled rock tight inside, I wonder if there is a way to stop the tailgate from maxing out, even just a fraction of an inch to take the strain off the wiring loom. It can't be good for it.

Ah yeah, the boot works fine with the key. The plip locks and unlocks all doors except the boot.

Did you ever get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat right now. Boot won't lock or unlock with the fob. All components tested and seem to work, plus power in the wires is there when pressing the fob. The boot lights didn't work either but I soon discovered the cause for that. 12v wire joined to the two light wires and 4th wire to the door open/shut microswitch. All corroded to bits in their plastic coffin. Stripped that apart and fiddled the wires together again and have working lights again! I'm at a loss on the central boot locking though.