Octyvrs03

This one for me runs the central locking (but not for the boot) plus the mirror motors and heating element.

Nevermind, I'm talking pish. Took the car for a longer drive and left foot braking did nothing to the revs. Guess my car is too old for that feature after all. I swear though, perhaps through my own delusion, that after I put in the cruise control it did drop the revs, at least in my imagination! I also mean when CC was switched off. I'm definitely mistaken though.

Just curious because I happened to retrofit cruise control this week. Before I did though, I stumbled onto this thread and read about the revs dropping when pressing brake and accelerator at the same time. I tried it in mine and nothing happened. Revs didn't drop if I tried to left foot brake. Then I ended up down the rabbit hole of "do I have a faulty brake switch" threads. In the end I chanced it and fitted the cruise control, activated the vcds code and the cruise works perfectly and cuts off when pressing the brake. So my brake switch is fine. I retested the left foot braking method and now the revs drop too. I wonder if OP has cruise control and disables it vcds it would solve the rev drop conundrum.

Do you have cruise control installed by any chance?

Think I've got to the bottom of it. Managed to get these connection blocks apart. Couldnt do it before as I didn't know how to remove them from the plastic holder. Turns out they just slide out with a bit of persuasion. The pink and black blocks are mostly fine, needed a little clean. I'm not sure exactly but I think they're for the rear wiper and some lights? The yellow block however was gutted inside. Some pins missing and wires popped out. I'm going to trim the wires and put them in a new block, probably a water resistant one. As for the wire condition in the rubber boot in the tailgate, I haven't checked continuity yet owing the destroyed ends of the yellow block. However, when the tailgate is open, the wire loom in the rubber boot is pulled rock tight inside, I wonder if there is a way to stop the tailgate from maxing out, even just a fraction of an inch to take the strain off the wiring loom. It can't be good for it.

Ah yeah, the boot works fine with the key. The plip locks and unlocks all doors except the boot.

Did you ever get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat right now. Boot won't lock or unlock with the fob. All components tested and seem to work, plus power in the wires is there when pressing the fob. The boot lights didn't work either but I soon discovered the cause for that. 12v wire joined to the two light wires and 4th wire to the door open/shut microswitch. All corroded to bits in their plastic coffin. Stripped that apart and fiddled the wires together again and have working lights again! I'm at a loss on the central boot locking though.

Replacing the rear shocks with nothing fancy, just a clean switch. Had a look here http://www.vwspares.co.uk/octaviasuspension_rear.php But not sure which to go for. It says the saloon including vrs. Does that mean the vrs in general, or just saloon vrs? Do I go for the estate or that for non vrs estates? Vag parts confuses me too as sometimes it says parts numbers for kombi and sometimes parts for vrs and sometimes doesnt specify either.

Common porblem the leaking skoosher pipes. Potential problem with cable tying the joints together is if there is ever a blockage or perhaps frozen pipe, the pressure that would normally pop the joints open will have nowhere to go and could rupture in not so easily accessible places. Good shout on raising the wiring though. i don't know what they were smoking when they decided to run water pipes next to the electrics. Also check under the roof bar drains for cracks, I have hairline cracks under them that drip water to the cd changer. Another job on the never ending vrs repair list.

Mine has sat for a couple of days with the battery removed and nothing bad happened. Clock reset, radio didn't need a code.

Boot struts arrived today, £25 delivered. Fitted in 5 mins using my head as boot support. Bump stops and return springs arrived too, just need some new tools and the rain to stop. On a side note, my car hadn't mooed much for about a year but as soon as I reversed out the dealers it was mooing the worst I've heard it. Lord know what they did to my baby. Struggling to find a HL light though, and I need to take it to my garage for the oil leak and exhaust bracket. My trusted "local" is in Fife but I've since moved to Edinburgh. Can anyone recommend a good, trust worthy place in Edinburgh? I've essentially saved myself £1200 already over the dealer quotes. It would be funny if it wasn't so sickening.

It's the brake dust plates that got me the most. As Ken says, they're not even mandatory. £452! I like the look of them when they're new and clean and got myself a pair for £30 delivered. Was a nightmare to find though. I'll get them an extra coating of paint and also scrub up and paint the rear ones too. From what I've read, the exhaust bracket should be a quick welding job. I'll need to have a look at the cv boot to see the issue. If it's more than a plop it back on job then I'm out. The main ones for me are the bump stops and HL light. Cant seem to find a sensibly priced HL light replacement and also need some new tools for the bump stop. Can never have enough spanners though, the Mrs will never understand.

Took my estate in for the coilpack recall (aye that's still valid ) and also asked for the headlight aim to be adjusted. Of course I was offered the free health check, which I'm glad I did as it brought up quite a few faults. What I can't wrap my head around is the prices they quote. Headlight adjustment £18 - for turning a few screws the right way. Ok, it's paid labour but jesus. They couldnt do it anyway as the MOT bay was busy. High level brake light not working. Few lights are out. £138... will have a diy go myself. Nsr caliper binding. Of course it's binding! it's a bloody skoda. £385 for the privilage! Will check it myself and ordered the return springs for £5 myself. Both rear bump stops are shot. had a browse here and see the guides. WIll do it myself, lest it's £194 from them. Os inner cv boot insecure thus leaking. £168! They didn't specify it was split, just insecure? pop it back on? Thats one for my local anyway. Tailgate gas struts need replaced £128 yer having a laugh! Centre support bracket for exhaust corroded and split. Not too sure what that means, is it a welding job? or a replacement bracket job. Weather isn't nice today for me to get under and see. £80 if I leave it to them. Slight oil leak at gearbox. Again i cant check it just now but slight leak? Could be anything. £90 for that so I assume its nothing major. The best one is the front brake dust plates. Those flimsy metal guards have turned to dust. Skoda would like to charge me £452 for that. £452?! For what? I sat with a straight face while the guy talked me through the list. In total £1600 worth of repairs if I am foolish enough to hand the keys.Got my free coilpacks and left. Doubt I'll ever be back. How can they justify those prices? And also, any advice on the above issues would be appreciated.

Just did mine this morning as I have been having fluctuating temps between 70 and 90 and the eml came on last week. No luck though, the temp is still up and down. Would changing the stat be the next step?

Seems the mpg is as per usual, tbh I never really noticed a difference in performance as I've generally got a light foot so didn't know what to expect. I know it goes well when it needs to! Next job is the temp sensor. Should be a doddle in comparison.