srane4213

Did you find a solution for this? I have a 1.9 Tdi Alh Rider variant with similar setup as yours (All windows electric, electric mirrors, no sunroof), I have swapped the cluster to the L&K one with he maxidot display in the center and it always shows that my bonnet is open. Now AFAIK my variant never came with a bonnet switch and it's triggering my OCD to constantly see my dash telling me that the bonnet is open when its not.

I had a similar issue with my 1.9 TDI Alh 66Kw Try cleaning the MAP sensor which sits on the intercooler...doing this solved the issue for me.

Hi all. I have an Octavia Mk1 1.9 Tdi ALH. Recently the car started going into limp mode at higher revs or under heavy load conditions. All is good cruising with minimal throttle input but as soon as you floor it and the car reaches revs of 1900+ suddenly there is no boost. I scanned the car using vcds and these are the codes the car is throwing; Sunday, 05 September 2021, 14:17:07 VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 HA Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0400SG 4922 Software Coding: 00002 Work Shop Code: WSC 12345 Additional Info: TMBCGG1U75A031136 SKZ7Z0E2928713 6 Faults Found: 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller P1649 - 35-00 - - 17954 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Short to Plus P1546 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 35-00 - - 18065 - A/C System Input/Output Short to B+ P1657 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground P1538 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, I swapped the N75 and the EGR (N18 I guess), no change.....but cycling the the key (off and on quickly) used to restore the car to normal for a few moments. Checked for vacuum leaks and found the pipe going to the brake booster had cracked (pic attached for you reference). Changed the pipe and still the same issue persists. But while fiddling around with the N75, it felt like the solenoid was not getting enough voltage (kind of like a vibrating relay). So, checked the supply at the connector which goes to the N75. now since I didn't have a Multimeter at hand used a test lamp....and the test lamp was flickering. So I thought it must be a bad ground somewhere, and took the positive supply form the N75 connector and negative from a good ground point on the engine. The test lamp was nice and bright without flicker in this case, so provided a good ground to the N75 connector and connected it to the N75. Now, the car runs as it should but the CEL is still popping up and VCDS is throwing these codes; Sunday, 05 September 2021, 17:07:45 VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 HA Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0400SG 4922 Software Coding: 00002 Work Shop Code: WSC 12345 Additional Info: TMBCGG1U75A031136 SKZ7Z0E2928713 4 Faults Found: 18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground P1538 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller P1649 - 35-00 - - 17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also since I thought the ECM was not getting a good ground I cleaned up the ground points below the battery, and the one near the ECM. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? Also, will providing a ground to N75 connector harm the ECM? Thanks.

I have a 1.9 Tdi ALH and even the clock and trip+odo in mine stays on after removing the key...I guess that's how it is and I never faced any battery drain issues, even after letting the car sit for 4-5 days without starting....your battery drain must be caused by something else....

Thanks buddy...will check that one and let you know

The octy they use in CT videos is a 1.9 Tdi ......which has a bosch pump if I'm not wrong......so it works with used vegetable oil.....

does the puddle lamp work in drivers door? Also when you pen the drivers door, the door open lamp comes on in the cluster?

I had tried this when my central locking for boot wasn't working......try swapping the control module in the driver's door for a known working one.....from what I figure it is the one responsible to signal the CCM ( situated in the dash ) to open/close the actuator in the boot at the press of the key.....if your drivers door puddle is not working chances are your boot central locking will also not work.....btw does your power window on the driver's side work?

I'm curious....did you install the electrically adjustable wing mirrors as well?

I thought the connector there only consists of a main 12v, ground, the speaker wires, 2 canbus wires, the black/red +ve for the puddle lamp plus a yellow/red wire which goes into the big connector of the door module....do any of these wires go directly to the mirror assembly?

Do the mirrors have a fuse which I might be missing?

So where exactly do I need to check the wiring? I've checked for continuity from the connector at the mirror till the big connector which connects to the door module ( the big electronics box which connects to the window motor) and yes...the pins are not corroded in that connector...as I connected the multimeter's probe to the pin to check the continuity . Neither are the pins in the module itself corroded...

Hi all.... I'm facing a strange problem in my Skoda Octavia Mk1 1.9 Tdi ALH (1U) My central locking, front door power windows, electric mirrors all were not working previously due to damaged door modules.... I replaced the front door modules and now I have central locking in all doors, all the power windows work excluding the rear right one as I am still unable to find that particular module, but yes....the remaining three are functional from their respective switches as well as the driver's side switch. The lock/ unlock button works on the drivers side panel.....but for some reason unknown, the mirror adjustment doesn't work.... I tried supplying 12v directly to the mirror motors and found out that the left one has gone kaput but the right one works......also the glass on the right mirror is of a local make hence it does not have the heating element.....but the glass on the left has 2 terminals attached to it.... I've tried swapping the adjustment switch incase it was a faulty one but to no avail......the mirror on the right won't work...I know for a fact that the switches I have are good and in proper working condition because I can see it's position (X+,Y+, etc) in vag-com measuring blocks..... The wiring form the connector to the mirror has continuity till the big connector to the module..so I presume the wiring is ok. Also attaching a AutoScan for your reference if that will help Can anyone guide me in the right direction to resolve this issue? Auto Scan 23-3-21.pdf

I think it'll be more or less a status symbol.....a premium brand has launched something...so even if the product is not at par with it's competition in the market I'll buy it just because I can.....and show people that I have the money to buy it.....and because I bought a very expensive toy.... I'm far more superior than you.... especially on the roads....this will be the mentality of most people who buy the Kushaq....but these are just my 2 cents.... Driving on Indian roads is totally a different thing....its not just about how good you are as a driver or a person...... it's everything else.... What car you own has a big say in your road presence....

It is basically being marketed as a compact SUV right now and being launched to rival 2 of the biggest players in this segment which are the Hyundai Creta and Kia Seltos (Both from the same parent company apparently). A compact SUV actually is actually just a bigger hatchback IMO. Marketed as a SUV but you shouldn't take it off-roading This is just the prototype version though....the actual production car won't be having any major changes AFAIK. Engine options are very limited; the 1.0 lit and 1.5 lit are the only 2 options being offered and that too in petrol (Gasoline).....this won't sit too well with Indian consumers as we are very well addicted to our diesel powertrains (till BS-V Emission norms kicked in we had diesel engines in small hatchbacks with displacement as low as 793 cc) due to the rising costs of fuels..... As it is, Skoda is considered as a premium brand in India so the Kushaq will be priced accordingly. Only time will tell if the sales figures will be anywhere near the Hyundai Creta or the Kia Seltos both starting priced at approx. 10 Lakh INR (13,705 USD or 10,045 Pound sterling)