Octyvrs03

This one for me runs the central locking (but not for the boot) plus the mirror motors and heating element.

Nevermind, I'm talking pish. Took the car for a longer drive and left foot braking did nothing to the revs. Guess my car is too old for that feature after all. I swear though, perhaps through my own delusion, that after I put in the cruise control it did drop the revs, at least in my imagination! I also mean when CC was switched off. I'm definitely mistaken though.

Just curious because I happened to retrofit cruise control this week. Before I did though, I stumbled onto this thread and read about the revs dropping when pressing brake and accelerator at the same time. I tried it in mine and nothing happened. Revs didn't drop if I tried to left foot brake. Then I ended up down the rabbit hole of "do I have a faulty brake switch" threads. In the end I chanced it and fitted the cruise control, activated the vcds code and the cruise works perfectly and cuts off when pressing the brake. So my brake switch is fine. I retested the left foot braking method and now the revs drop too. I wonder if OP has cruise control and disables it vcds it would solve the rev drop conundrum.

Do you have cruise control installed by any chance?

Think I've got to the bottom of it. Managed to get these connection blocks apart. Couldnt do it before as I didn't know how to remove them from the plastic holder. Turns out they just slide out with a bit of persuasion. The pink and black blocks are mostly fine, needed a little clean. I'm not sure exactly but I think they're for the rear wiper and some lights? The yellow block however was gutted inside. Some pins missing and wires popped out. I'm going to trim the wires and put them in a new block, probably a water resistant one. As for the wire condition in the rubber boot in the tailgate, I haven't checked continuity yet owing the destroyed ends of the yellow block. However, when the tailgate is open, the wire loom in the rubber boot is pulled rock tight inside, I wonder if there is a way to stop the tailgate from maxing out, even just a fraction of an inch to take the strain off the wiring loom. It can't be good for it.

Ah yeah, the boot works fine with the key. The plip locks and unlocks all doors except the boot.

Did you ever get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat right now. Boot won't lock or unlock with the fob. All components tested and seem to work, plus power in the wires is there when pressing the fob. The boot lights didn't work either but I soon discovered the cause for that. 12v wire joined to the two light wires and 4th wire to the door open/shut microswitch. All corroded to bits in their plastic coffin. Stripped that apart and fiddled the wires together again and have working lights again! I'm at a loss on the central boot locking though.

Replacing the rear shocks with nothing fancy, just a clean switch. Had a look here http://www.vwspares.co.uk/octaviasuspension_rear.php But not sure which to go for. It says the saloon including vrs. Does that mean the vrs in general, or just saloon vrs? Do I go for the estate or that for non vrs estates? Vag parts confuses me too as sometimes it says parts numbers for kombi and sometimes parts for vrs and sometimes doesnt specify either.

Common porblem the leaking skoosher pipes. Potential problem with cable tying the joints together is if there is ever a blockage or perhaps frozen pipe, the pressure that would normally pop the joints open will have nowhere to go and could rupture in not so easily accessible places. Good shout on raising the wiring though. i don't know what they were smoking when they decided to run water pipes next to the electrics. Also check under the roof bar drains for cracks, I have hairline cracks under them that drip water to the cd changer. Another job on the never ending vrs repair list.

Mine has sat for a couple of days with the battery removed and nothing bad happened. Clock reset, radio didn't need a code.

Boot struts arrived today, £25 delivered. Fitted in 5 mins using my head as boot support. Bump stops and return springs arrived too, just need some new tools and the rain to stop. On a side note, my car hadn't mooed much for about a year but as soon as I reversed out the dealers it was mooing the worst I've heard it. Lord know what they did to my baby. Struggling to find a HL light though, and I need to take it to my garage for the oil leak and exhaust bracket. My trusted "local" is in Fife but I've since moved to Edinburgh. Can anyone recommend a good, trust worthy place in Edinburgh? I've essentially saved myself £1200 already over the dealer quotes. It would be funny if it wasn't so sickening.

It's the brake dust plates that got me the most. As Ken says, they're not even mandatory. £452! I like the look of them when they're new and clean and got myself a pair for £30 delivered. Was a nightmare to find though. I'll get them an extra coating of paint and also scrub up and paint the rear ones too. From what I've read, the exhaust bracket should be a quick welding job. I'll need to have a look at the cv boot to see the issue. If it's more than a plop it back on job then I'm out. The main ones for me are the bump stops and HL light. Cant seem to find a sensibly priced HL light replacement and also need some new tools for the bump stop. Can never have enough spanners though, the Mrs will never understand.

Took my estate in for the coilpack recall (aye that's still valid ) and also asked for the headlight aim to be adjusted. Of course I was offered the free health check, which I'm glad I did as it brought up quite a few faults. What I can't wrap my head around is the prices they quote. Headlight adjustment £18 - for turning a few screws the right way. Ok, it's paid labour but jesus. They couldnt do it anyway as the MOT bay was busy. High level brake light not working. Few lights are out. £138... will have a diy go myself. Nsr caliper binding. Of course it's binding! it's a bloody skoda. £385 for the privilage! Will check it myself and ordered the return springs for £5 myself. Both rear bump stops are shot. had a browse here and see the guides. WIll do it myself, lest it's £194 from them. Os inner cv boot insecure thus leaking. £168! They didn't specify it was split, just insecure? pop it back on? Thats one for my local anyway. Tailgate gas struts need replaced £128 yer having a laugh! Centre support bracket for exhaust corroded and split. Not too sure what that means, is it a welding job? or a replacement bracket job. Weather isn't nice today for me to get under and see. £80 if I leave it to them. Slight oil leak at gearbox. Again i cant check it just now but slight leak? Could be anything. £90 for that so I assume its nothing major. The best one is the front brake dust plates. Those flimsy metal guards have turned to dust. Skoda would like to charge me £452 for that. £452?! For what? I sat with a straight face while the guy talked me through the list. In total £1600 worth of repairs if I am foolish enough to hand the keys.Got my free coilpacks and left. Doubt I'll ever be back. How can they justify those prices? And also, any advice on the above issues would be appreciated.

Just did mine this morning as I have been having fluctuating temps between 70 and 90 and the eml came on last week. No luck though, the temp is still up and down. Would changing the stat be the next step?

Seems the mpg is as per usual, tbh I never really noticed a difference in performance as I've generally got a light foot so didn't know what to expect. I know it goes well when it needs to! Next job is the temp sensor. Should be a doddle in comparison.

Any pics of damage?

Kirkcaldy myself. Just did the y pipe and the one connected to it plus the t pipe. What a pain. On the way home I noticed my mpg was lower than usual... hope it was just from me booting it a bit more to see if there was a power difference without split pipes. I'll take a gingerly drive to work to see if it gives me the usual mpg reading. if not, I guess I've *******s up somewhere.

Kelty... not too far from me. Mind and have a rummage around all the breather pipes. I found that when the y piece had split, the others of same age and wear were on the way out too. My new silicone bits arrived today. I take it youll be going to western skoda dunfermline for a throttle body gasket? If you do, let me know if they carry them in stock or if they "have to order some in".

No no, you dont need vagcom so long as you dont disconnect the wires from the TB. It's actually frightening the difference it makes to stuttering revs. I, along with many other here had the stuttering in 1st and 2nd gear. Cleaned the throttle body and wow. Gone. When I did mine there was just a tiny slither of black gunk and cleaning that away made the world of difference. I do think that your issue sounds like more than just the TB though but still do clean it. Excellent guide here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/129943-cleaning-throttle-body-18t-engine/?hl=+cleaning%20+throttle%20+body

Have you cleaned the throttle body at all? It's a good place to start if you haven't. Also the SAI could be leaking air. As you probably know it comes on for the first minute or so and then once it switches off it could explain why your car feels fine afterwards. Theres a simple bolts fix for that. And the standard "check every bit of pipework for splits/breaks" deal. Eliminate those potential problems first and if it's still doing it then hopefully a more technical minded member here can advise.

There will be a join in the water pipe near the top left corner of the boot under the panel trim that likes to work its way loose, especially if you've been moving the electrical cables of your lights. Check that the join is popped together. Unless you mean you can see it dribbling down inside from the nozzle end?

Did they replace them? If so how much was it/did they quote you? Mine is booked in for the coil pack recall next Friday, I have a split breather but will be ordering silicone replacements. My brakes have seen better days too but pagid discs and pads are on the way.

I take it none of you on pagids have ever had to mention this to your insurers, or in times of making a claim had the brakes questioned. TBH on all the cars I've had I've replaced the standard brakes with "better brand" ones and never crossed my mind that this might be considered as a mod. As for the brake fluid, should that be done by skoda or will a reliable local garage suffice?

I'm going to be replacing my worn out discs and pads soon with these pagids but just out of curiosity first, are these something that has to be declared to the insurance company? Or is this just the same as if someone were to choose budget tyres over say Goodyears?

Hi all, today I just purchased my red 53 Octy vrs estate, as my username partly suggests. I've been lurking this forum for a few weeks reading the advice and tips and tricks. So far I'm very pleased with this surprise choice of car, I was originally after a vauxhall vectra estate when this vrs popped up locally and after reading about them here my decision was made. I look forward to many months of driving pleasure and a few headaches from time to time, where I'll turn to this forum for help. I smile every time I hear the mooing brakes in reverse.