Paddy1253

I've had my 2016 2.0TDI 150PS Superb DSG since virtually new and it's been pretty faultless so far but recently it's started to stall on the first restart when Stop/Start is enabled. If I leave it a couple of seconds, it'll attempt it again and start OK so I'm not getting the "Restart Engine Manually" message which would be a right pain. It's not every time and there's no specific circumstances when it will do it (cold/steep hills/sharp turns etc). I used to have the auto-brake/hill hold thing on but that seemed to make it worse as though it was trying to move but the brake was still active so I've disabled that and it's slightly better but still there. The car's done just short of 80K and been serviced regularly with all necessary other work such as DSG oil replaced along with the timing belt and water pump when required. It's not a major problem, more of an annoyance especially at traffic lights and roundabouts and I know I can just turn it off but that's not the point, I'd rather it work as designed which as I say, until recently has been just fine. Any ideas as to what might be causing it and more importantly, how do you fix it? I'd rather not have to take it to a dealer (well I wouldn't anyway, it's an annoyance not a major fault and they'd charge an arm and a leg) but would be happy to take it to my trusted local garage with a bit of additional advice/information. Thanks

Hi, Take a look at this: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/304984-upgrade-vrs-interior-lights/#entry3646482

I found a picture on Google of the complete assembly, just stick a thin flat bladed screwdriver where the arrow is and the bezel will start to lift away, repeat around the bezel as necessary.

The official manual explanation on how to remove the glovebox to gain access to the fusebox is as clear as mud but it's actually quite easy when you know how. If you open the glovebox, at the back to the left you can just about see a small arm linking it to the dashboard, this is the "soft open" mechanism so the glovebox doesn't just drop open in your lap. What you need to do is pop this off before removing the glovebox itself. 1. Remove the cover on the side of the dashboard and you'll see a hole through to the back of the glovebox and this arm. 2. Stick a biggish screwdriver in there and push the arm up vertically and it will fairly easily pop off (and start to retract slowly - not a problem). 3. Grab the glovebox and admittedly with a bit of brute force, pull it towards you, maybe easing it left and right. Give it a whack or two, it will come off eventually. Now that's off, you can thread your new supply wires up across the top of the fusebox and then round the back of the centre console. On the passenger side, remove the retaining Torx head screw from the the lower panel (where the passenger's right foot would rest) and then prise this panel down so you can see into the centre console space (lots of air-con pipes and such in there). Do the same on the drivers side and now with a bit of fiddling around and an old coat hanger, you can get the wires across into the dashboard below the steering wheel and from there it's up to you. Putting the glovebox back on is just the reverse of taking it off: 1. Place the glovebox roughly in the right position placing its stop (top right) behind the equivalent dashboard stop the and line the two lugs up with the location bars on the dashboard (that form the hinge). Now give a good whack forwards on each side to "click" these into place.Don't forget to roughly line up the soft-open arm which will have retracted fully by now. 2. Stick that screwdriver back in the hole and pull the arm forwards so its hook is over the hinge lug where it popped off of originally and then push down with the screwdriver to click it back into place. 3. Replace the dashboard side cover. Sorry if that's a bit long-winded but I hope it helps.

Most of these type of items on eBay are here today, gone tomorrow so these links may not be valid for long but here goes: Bulbs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-T10-194-168-W5W-501-5050-5-SMD-LED-ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-White-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/310839836453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item485f7f7f25 LED Strips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30cm-5050-SMD-15-LED-Day-Running-Strip-Car-Light-Audi-A5-Waterproof-12V-Blue-/350777206150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51abf36586

If anyone is interested, here's my efforts on upgrading the internal lights in my vRS estate. I daresay the same would apply to any model, not just a vRS but anyway, moving on...... Courtesy lights Get hold of a pack of 10 W5W 194 T10 5 SMD 5050 LED push wedge bulbs, about a fiver from that well known internet auction site. In the roof lights, the existing bulbs, 2 front, 3 rear, can simply be exchanged without modification, simply pop off the surround using a small screwdriver and pull the old bulbs out and push the new LEDs in. For the courtesy lights in the boot (2), glovebox (1) and front doors (2), pop out the bulb holder with a screwdriver and remove the old bulb. On the LED replacement, you will need to cut off the collar part of the white plastic cover with a knife as the diameter of this collar prevents the bulb being pushed in far enough. You'll see what I mean if you try it. It's a bit fiddly and you will cut your thumb at least once when the knife slips but persevere, it's worth it. As with all LEDs, they only work one way round so if at first it fails to illuminate, simply rotate it 180 degrees. Additional boot lights The additional lights in the boot (it's an estate, is it still called a boot?) are just 12V LED strips, again from that well known internet auction side, just search for 30cm 15 SMD 5050 LED Audi A5 and you'll find them. These are wired up to the courtesy lights. I simply cut the existing wires about an inch from the plug, +12V = red/blue, 0V = brown and spliced in another pair to the LED strip which is just stuck using the self adhesive backing to the plastic side panels. OK, you need some wire, a soldering iron, and some soldering ability but it's relatively easy. Why do it - 'cos the original bulbs are hopeless with the boot empty, worse than useless with a full boot. Adding more lights just seemed the obvious solution. Footwell lights The footwell lights were a bit more involved as you have to create an ignition fed 12V supply. I soldered a wire to a fuse (a fuse tap and spade connector would have been easier but I didn't have one) and stuck it in the spare slot 48. For the 0V, the 2 combined hex & Torx head, dashboard mounting screws (which are accessible when you're messing about in the fuse box) go to earth so I used a spaded 0V wire on to one of them, voilà an ignition fed 12V supply. Using another one of those LED strips, I cut a block of 3 LEDs off so I had a 2" length, removed 1/4" of the silicon covering to reveal the copper tracks and soldered 2 wires on to each 2" length, routed the wires back to the fuse box, connected it all up and stuck the LED to the underside of the dashboard. I'm not saying this is THE way to do it, I'm sure there are superior and easier aftermarket products available but it does for me and for around a tenner and a couple of hours effort, I've got LEDs all round, a much brighter boot area and half decent footwell lights. I'm more than happy to answer any questions but I'm no electrician, I'm just using a bit of noggin and DIY skills and passing on my experiences. I apologise now for the quality of the pictures, they don't do the results justice but you should get the idea.