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Posts posted by RobM
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Absolutely, which is the point really, being gentle generally protects the engine as well as other bits like the turbo as nothing is under stress. Getting my head around what causes the most stress was the aim of the question.
It's all to be safe rather than sorry really, I was never bothered when I had company cars but it's different when is your own money! Company cars don't need warming up...
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That's my thoughts to be honest, I understand where Phil is coming from entirely, but it's the more fragile components that I worry about as well, the turbo being a key one.
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I knew I'd come to the right place to ask, thank you all very much :sun:
It's good to know I'm safe and doing the right thing, but it's even more useful to know the detail behind it, so thank you all!
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I'm a big believer in the importance of correctly warming up and cooling down your engine, I'm sure most of us are. But something I'm struggling to get my head around is how to do it safely when your journey means entering a motorway within the first few minutes.
For instance, my journey home from work involves leaving a car park, driving roughly 1-mile before entering a major dual carriageway which becomes a motorway within a couple of miles. Therefore I'm at 50-70mph within a few minutes of starting the car, which doesn't feel right.
What I can't get my head around is what exactly is going to do the most damage. Is engine speed the concern (e.g. RPM) or engine load (e.g. acceleration, change in speed). If I let the speed increase carefully (avoiding too hard acceleration) to the road-speed but then maintain it at a fairly constant speed, therefore keeping the RPM fairly steady (around 2-2.5k RPM in my CR VRS), is this the most 'lightweight' option? Or is engine speed alone going to do damage on a cold engine and I need to keep the speed down for longer?
I know some of you lot are far wiser than I am on subjects like this, so I hope you can help me make sense of it
Thanks.
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Thanks for clarifying, I thought you meant to use that point.
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Superb, the closer the better! Thank you very much.
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Thanks, I might strip it out tomorrow and see what I find. Won't be hard to run a new cable I'm sure.
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Thank you, I'll do exactly that tomorrow!
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It didn't come with one so I might need to pinch one from the Mrs Golf to test, but it only starts causing a problem when power is drawn from it. Simply having something plugged in doesn't cause a problem, it's only when it is powering or charging something.
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I used to get this problem when I had an VW RCD 310 DAB in my Fabia with a glass mounted aerial. I put it down to a cheap phone charger/cable that was giving off radiation and the skinny cable to the glass mounted aerial that probably didn't have any screening picking up the interference.
Using an external roof mounted aerial with high quality RG316 cable provides a better result.
That is on the shopping list to be honest, maybe I need to accelerate the idea. I'm plenty happy with the performance of the windscreen mount, but fear a stone chip and replacement windscreen would mean having to replace the aerial.
Inadequate earth?
That was the sort of thing I was wondering, do you know where it is earthed?
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Sorry, yes, the Kenwood had a display strength indicator and you can see it sit at the highest level, then drop the moment you plug something in. It'll then shoot straight back up when unplugged.
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The DAB signal is superb usually, absolutely rock solid almost everywhere. I've tried different chargers, including cheapo eBay specials and expensive BlackBerry premium ones, so I'm stumped.
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Unless I'm missing something spectacularly stupid, I only have the one 12v socket. I don't have one in the boot or in the rear of the car at all, just the one by the cup holders.
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This is quite bizarre, but I hope somebody can give me some inspiration...
When something is plugged into my 12v socket by the cup holders (phone charger, for instance), it screws up the DAB reception, causing it to drop out. The moment I unplug it, signal is restored. I've also noticed that when plugged in and the signal drops, sometimes I can move / wiggle / press the 12v connection and it'll 'fix' it. Really weird.
My headunit is the Kenwood DNX521DAB and I've removed it, traced the DAB aerial cable and it's not running anywhere near the 12v socket - it runs straight behind the glove box and up to the windscreen-mount DAB aerial.
What on earth could cause this?
Thank you if you have any ideas at all!
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Looks great, something I'll copy in the near future
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Colour code for sure. Chrome looks OK, colour coded looks superb, black / matte / grey etc look unfinished and cheap to me. All personal opinion of course, so go with your favourite.
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Is the kenwood unit a straight swap to replace a bolero in a FL VRS?
Sent from my iPhone 5
using Tapatalk
No, not quite... the Bolero is a much bigger unit than most others, so while the Kenwood does just plug into all existing wiring (+ DAB and GPS aerials that need to be added) you'll need a new fascia surround as well, or else you'll have gaps around the side of the Kenwood. The fascia is circa. £50 from dealers.
It's far simpler for other, smaller headunits and you'll find the same problem with any aftermarket unit you buy.
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I've just had two GoodYear EfficientGrip Performance fitted and couldn't be happier. They went on the back and have made an immediate improvement to road noise and braking feels sharper and stronger, so much so I'm thinking of getting rid of the Pirelli's I have on the front far earlier than I need to.
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Alpine also offer an add-on box for some of their Double DIN units that shows the climate and parking sensors on screen. Only works with more modern units though so it's not going to be much cheaper than the Kenwood option that is designed for this very reason.
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I've got a silver one from a 2011 VRS that I don't need. It's the brushed-alloy looking silver and my car had the Bolero fitted (so wider stereo hole) but if it would be of use to you, drop me a PM. There are pictures in the For Sale section now.
Even though you don't want silver, this and a wrap or some paint could make a nice DIY option
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This is definitely on my to-do list. I think this and a remap would make a great lightly-modified every-day car. My only two complaints are a slight lack of power at times (VRS CR) and the wallowy, slow to turn in feeling you get. It can also be a bit nervous on long, fast motorway corners. Hopefully this will cure that
Thanks for the review!
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FYI B12's from German eBay sellers with high ratings are currently around £500 with fast shipping. That simply can't be matched by any UK seller.
Do you still get decent after-sales service and customer care?
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I sense a theme here! I'll play though... second favourite is Silver My favourite is Grey.
Race Blue was the one colour I specifically didn't want when buying a VRS. It's a bit of a cliche, IMO, just like the blue Impreza's with gold wheels. Sorry!
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I'm averaging 47MPG day-to-day. That's doing a 80 mile a day round-trip to and from work, mostly motorway in rush hour. I've seen individual trips hit 53MPG if the traffic is free-flowing, I've also had 44MPG when I've... ahem... gotten home quicker than usual
I left the 'trip 2' computer on for 1700 miles last month and it showed an average of 47MPG, so I'm pretty pleased with that.
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Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance :-)
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
I had two fitted to the rear of my 2011 VRS and I'm very impressed. The noise levels dropped noticeably (I do an 80-mile round-trip to work each day, so I really do notice it), my long-term MPG is now 49.5MPG rather than 48MPG and I'm frequently seeing 52+MPG on a cruise (57MPG is my highest!). Braking performance is more assured, especially in the wet, noticeably so compared to the Pirellis I had before (I HATE Pirelli).
I'm not much of a street racer so I can't say much about ultimate handling, but on the occasions I have had a little play they've not made me worry or feel concerned at all.
I'm looking forward to the front Pirellis running low now