Bjornm

Skomaz, thank you for your help! I'm trying these guys! Regards, Bjorn.

I'm getting nuts! I am trying to purchase a new Haldex pump for my 2006 Octavia 1Z 4x4. The electric motor in the old one is completely chewed up. BUT - all the pumps I have found on the market, is the newer type. This newer type has a metal coloured housing with sort of pointed back end, front (by the filter) diameter of 38mm, and diameter by the motor housing is 40mm. My old pump has a black, at the back end rounded housing, and front diameter is 35mm, and diameter by the motor is 38mm. The new type pump is also a bit longer, but with a flat, not protruding filter. I cannot get this old type pump, neither in Norway or Germany, I've ordered specifically for my car referring to licence plate, but the pump I've got is incorrect. Can anyone help me with an address where I can get the old type of pump? I'm desperate (MOT). Thanks a lot! Bjorn.

Thank you, I can figure out where it is. I'll try this. Thanks! B.

I will try and find that opening, could you specify where it's located?

It could very well be done that way, the problem is to get through the wall between the engine room and the cabin. I need a wire here for controlling extra headlamps.

I have a problem, I want to route an electrical wire from the engine room to the dashboard, BUT: all factory openings are clogged with existing wires and sealers. Other possible openings are either blind, or ends in metal sheet labyrinths. Have anyone a smart solution, or have discovered a route that is not blocked? Thanks! Bjorn

octytdi4x4.. In the end I got the thing parted, but I had to loosen the driveshaft, disconnect the oil return pipe and shine a powerful torch up from underneath (car jacked up and on axlestands, as you suggest) THEN I could JUST see the nut on the underside of the turbo flange. Then I got it. I am quite certain that your turbo is integral with the exhaust manifold, and should come out in one piece. My exhaust manifold was impossible to remove with turbo attached. BUT: I found the actuator pipe (rubber hose) from N75 valve to wastegate to contain some absolutely jet black fluid. Possible condensation with carbon. This gunk must have passed from the secondary turbo stage, through N75 valve and back down to the wastegate. It is quite certain that the stuff has come from the crank case ventilation system - another cause to remove the direct approach to inlet manifold and let it pass through a separate catch tank. I think my Octavia mk2 will be fitted with one soon.... Good luck to you, octytdi4x4, mate!

pikpilot: Yes, those two XZN bolts are easily removed. I have to collect strenght to get that pig nut on the underside tomorrow! Thanks for your time, all help is good help! (I'll need the good luck!) :p

cheshire cat: I think you mean the diaphragm in the wastegate? I'll chech when it's out. I think mouth suction isn't enough to check action of the wastegate, and I have no vacuum source for testing. pikpilot: The nut is on the UNDERSIDE of the turbo flange. If you have a look at the Haynes manual, section 4D.4, picture 5.11, you'll see the nut marked 12 on the underside. How much easier would it not have been with the thing on TOP of the flange! Mbames: The rat catch is that the turbo secondary stage is blocking access to the lower second exhaust manifold bolt from register. I think this type of turbo with wastegate, which is detachable from the exhaust manifold is uncommon. Most turbos are integral with the exhaust manifold. Anyway, I will try to release the nut on the underside of the turbo flange (God knows how) and get the pig out. I have never been up to more unaccessible nuts and bolts in my life. By the way, engine is AGR, car is 1U5 Turbo KO3. Does anyone have experience with the effect of Mr.Muscle treatment on this type of turbo? It would have been so incredibly more easy to just spray the thing!! Thanks for all responses, guys!

It happens from time to time! He, He!

TDI is diesel. 1,9l TDI. You're mistaken about the disel turbo. There are two versions, one with separate turbo (mine), I think its K03 turbo, with wastegate, one with integral turbo/manifold. I think the latter has variable vane control in the turbo. :sun:

Friends, I have been tampering with motors, cars and mortorcycles for almost 50 years, and I have never been forced to give up a project. Until now. I am now trying to remove the turbo from my 2000 Octavia Estate 4x4 (AGR engine). It's a splendid car, but after developing the dreaded limp mode in steep uphills, I decided to remove the turbo for cleanup and servicing. But - even being from the north of Norway, I have never been swearing so heavily in all my life. The thing is impossible to get out!! I have removed everything, down to the oil pipes to reach the thing. The turbo in an AGR engine has a wastegate, which I suspect is hanging. I know of the Mr. Muscle trick to free the vanes in THE OTHER type of turbo, but I think it is of no use in this case (no vanes). The wastegate valve is kind of outside the turbo first stage, and maybe the Mr. Muscle cleaning wouldn't work so well here. I think the whole thing should go out and on to the bench for a proper cleaning. BUT - I cannot get the f-ing thing out!!! The exhaust pipe is detached, the drive axle is loosened and moved aside, the intake manifold and all piping is out, and it seem now to be two ways of getting the thing out. One is to detach the exhaust manifold with the turbo still attached. Good plan, only six more nuts to loosen. But the second bottom nut from the register end is inaccessible! The bulk of the turbo itself makes it impossible to attach any tool to the nut! I can get a wrench (good offset) over the nut, but I cannot turn it! No socket in earth will reach the nut because of the turbo. Conclusion: I cannot remove the manifold. Other is to remove the two bolts (12mm XZN) - from above, easy match. But: on the underside, hidden by the RWD gearbox, front axle, subframe AND wastegate, there is a 13mm (I think) nut. I don't know, because I haven't reached it with any tool in my toolboxes, I haven't even been able to touch it with my hands! Talk about inaccessable!! And how the hell am I supposed to reach that? Of couse I can dismantle everything and hoist the engine out, then everything would be a dream to get at. But maybe too much work. Maybe. I only wish I had those Czech engineers here now, so I could lay my hands on them!!!! If they only had put that last nut on the turbo flange UPWARDS so it could be reached!!! Or if the had put the turbo 2 cms further aft, so one could use a tool on that exhaustmanifold nut!! I want to kill those guys!! Badly! The engine bay is a nightmare with water and vacuum piping always in the way, and cables and contacts and things interfering with the tools all the time. More seriously, does anyone have experience with removing this monstrosity? After cooling down, I think that loosening the wastegate actuator pushrod (mine is in one piece, with a nut on each side of the actuator arm), and the n remove the wastegate completely, will make it possible to reach that 13mm nut on the underside of the turbo flange. Does this make sense, anyone? Or does the old Mr. Muscle treat work with this turbo too? It really would be a shame to put everything together again and not have been able to take the turbo out. What a defeat!! By the way, I have 17958 fault code, Charge Pressure, Control deviation. Maybe not a surprise? Does anyone have any good ideas, please? Thanks, mates!

It is done by the CPU, by all those little sensors and pressure valves and things. You cannot adjust it yourself. In my Octavia, with similar problems, , I cleaned the MAP (first thing after the air cleaner in the inlet tract). I took it out, sprayed it carefully with brake cleaner, and immersed it in denaturated alcohol in a plastic bag and then let it dry (blew GENTLY with pressurized air - the thing is BRITTLE). My car responded very well to this. It is also possible that a clogged up EGR-valve (mine was horrible) and inlet manifold, also possibly clogged up, needs cleaning. Oil from the crancase vent gets into the inlet air and deposits by help of said EGR-valve as a thich sooty layer in these parts. The intercooler (well hidden under the screen washer fluid container and headlight, may also need to be cleaned from oily deposits (mine will tomorrow). Lastly, sooting up of the turbo is also possible (likely) cause. Can be cleaned with Revive cleaner or,, with a little taking down of parts, with oven cleaner. Search the forum for YouTube vidos and explanation. Go buy yourself a Haynes manual - wort absolutely every penny! (If you don't already have one - I cannot praise the thing enough!) Good luck, buddy!

The wiper axles go through a cast alloy housing and will often seize. Remove the black plastic shield under the front window berhind the bonnet, after removing the wipers. Remove the whole assembly - four bolts, I seem to remember. The axles are secured with locking rings. Pry them out with a small screwdriver, and remove, together with shims. Have the nuts on the threaded ends of the axles, support the assembly and knock/press the axles out (the nuts protect the threads) . In the end you'll have to remove the nuts and use a rod to get the axles out. The linkage arms are easily removed. Clean out the oxidation from the axles and housing, regrease with light grease, or oil/grease mix - you don't want the wipers to be slow in cold temperatures, and put together. The linkage in itself are most often OK, it's the axles that seize in the housing. This worked wonders to me. Sorry I took no photos during the process. Good luck, mate!

Possibly a good idea, patrol man - but for the cost! :peek:

Thanks, bobbyforeman!

Skoda Octavia 1Z, 1,9 TDI. Does any of you clever boys know which cylinder is the no. 1? It differs from make to make, most often cyl. no 1 is the one closest to the flywheel, but almost just as often it is the one at the register end. For Skoda Octavia, is it the one at the flywheel or the other?? I am to chance the cyl. no.1 glow plug, but it is most rewarding to know which one it is. Thanks! Bjorn.