Hello,
@kidology, I have fitted those DRLs, too, in Jul-2018 (I was not aware of this post on B-Skoda); it took like 3h to get the job done (measurement, wiring instalation and proper conection of lights and LDM -> thanks to my fellow electrician's help). I did not use the fuse adaptor that came in the original package, I bought a separate one to have an easy access to the free fuse slot (near the engine).
When the DRLs are (correctly) connected to their dedicated LDM, "we have" 4 functions:
- DRL is blinking 6 times when ignition is switched ON (this happens only if via VCDS the cold diagnosis is active for the headlamp, (09-Central Electric - 07 long coding);
- DRL is active at its highest brightness, while headlamp-low beam is not ON;
- DRL is active and with dimmed brightness, while headlamp's low beam is ON;
- DRL is deactivated, while headlamp's high beam is activated.
The black wire was linked to the GND near the baterry, red wire to a positive frew slot near the engine fusebox, the white and blue wires (the ones that are trasmitting the proper signals to the LDM) were linked to the respective wires of low and high beam (left headlamp). Initially were used some clips to assure the connection of the signal wires, but last week I noticed that DRLs started to shift on their own, from dimmed intensity to the highest one, while low beam was active.
I took the insulation tape out and after opening the respective clips cover, I noticed oxidation on the metallic contact (last photo). This caused the intermittent function between DRLs intensity.
For that respective 2 wires connected to the headlamp, insulation was very-very carefully removed and signal wires going to the LDM were soldered. So, my opinion, do not use metallic clips for connection, moisture will ingress there, no matter if plastic body and insulation is applied after.
I like very much my DRLs, over 3 years and no problems occured so far, neither on the LDM or lighting parts.
BR, Dan