Viperdt

Hi there I had an old nextbase dashcam with a hardwire kit. This had a piggyback fuse adapter for the switched live connection. I just used fuse 47 which was the rear wiper for me. Then connect to a earth which i used whatever bit of metal i could find behind the dashboard. Job done. Hardest part was removing the glovebox and putting it back in

Recently, atleast once a week i get this error message saying bluetooth not available on the screen. As well as no bluetooth the smartlink long longer works either. 9/10 times you turn the engine off and on it resets itself but its a nusence. My cars in for a recall work next week so I'll mention it and hopefully it'll be as simple as a firmware update. Anybody else experience this issue?

Thanks for the reply. Luckily the chrome exhaust strip on the karoq sportline is completely fake as the exhaust is underneath so I should think plastidip would work well 👍 I just can't understand why the sportline trim has everything in black and they then leave a massive chrome bit at the back

Sorry to revive an old thread but has anybody done this to their chrome exhaust trims and do they have photos? I would love to try it on my karoq sportline.

I bought another wire harness as I didn't want to tap into the original wires. Each wire is labelled so couldnt go wrong.

When you put it like that it makes me feel better. I'm looking forward to going to dsg for a change.

Mid 30's mpg is doable. I'm hoping to be near the 400 miles out of a tank but think that's wishful thinking.

MPG in the high 30's would be ideal for me. I've had a look at HJ's and some have said around 38 mpg so fingers crossed around the figure 👍

Hi guys I've put a deposit down on a Karoq Sportline 2.0tsi and wondering what everyone's mpg is and how many miles do you get out of a tank of fuel? I'm coming from a MK3 Octavia VRS TDI which I've averaged 46mpg over the last 7k miles. Not doing the mileage anymore to warrant a diesel engine and dpf regens are getting more frequent. Cheers

Thanks for replying. Sods law this happens when the weathers warm and garages being shut! I've tried that method in the video 3 times and it still isnt working properly. But, I haven't turned the ignition off directly after it so may give that a go. The blowers work absolutely fine in any temperature I set and have good fan power behind them but as soon as you turn the aircon on, the blower stays loud but theres no power at all. It does sound like the car fans are stuck in recirculate but they arent.

Update: The car has now decided to display another error on OBD11. B108B54 - No basic settings. What's going on with my car??

Hi guys So today my Octavia's aircon decided to play up. It Ran nice and cold and had plenty of blowing power and all of a sudden it sounds like the recirculaton is turned on when it's not. The fans won't blow much cold air out any more. I've plugged in my obd11 and got a fault code B108B71. Air flow flap motor actuator jammed it says. I've reset it and started it all up and within 2 minutes of the aircon running it does it again. Anybody else experienced this problem before?

Viperdt - Bristol - mk3 race blue Octavia vrs estate tdi

I've just installed the same subwoofer into my 2016 pre fl vrs 3 days ago. I have no experience at all with this kind of stuff and wasnt too bad. I followed some advice on here and bought a soc t harness part number CT10SK03. I tapped into the rear speaker wires from that as I didnt want to mess with the original wiring. I de pinned lots of wires to make it easier to hide in the space available behind the headunit. It was a bit of a pain laying on my back in the footwell pushing wires as far back as possible. I Mounted the sub under the drivers seat and ran all the cables behind the dash and up behind the glovebox. The fuse taps part is where I struggled as I already used a switched live for my hard wired dash cam. This was fuse 47 for the rear window wiper. So I changed the normal blade fuse to a mini blade and used no 33. Crimped 2 normal blade fuse taps onto the remote blue cable and yellow battery cable. The remote fuse tap I used a switched live so it would turn on with the ignition. No 47 for the rear window wiper and the battery cable I used permanent live fuse 40 for 12v socket. There was plenty of places to put the earth.

Thanks for the reply, my dash cam has a normal blade fuse tap but I've got some mini blade fuses and mini blade fuse tap now so I'll have a look on that row you mentioned