fabialousvrs

I shall make the next one too... Good to see you all :-) Tony :-)

I use my driveway in Wigan.. easier and I know what oil is being put in :-)

Owned 2 S2000's in my car owning history. Great cars, feel quicker than they are and are very reliable. In 3 and a half years total ownership between both cars (2000 & facelift 2002), just had one wheel bearing go on me. Quite frugal on petrol when you drive it carefully, frantic and exciting when you want to loon it. Lots of tatty ones about for 4k that can be bought to revive ...

Rebuilds have a tendency to rear their ugly head you see, rarely will you ever get the same tolerances from the factory with rebuilds, much better with a used engine instead but there's never always one available with the right mileage. Tart the car up best you can, make it shine and really show it off with as much effort as possible. It's mainly a young fellas car so I'm sure you'll move it on with a bit of elbow grease and bling.

No... Way out. Cat C is not looked upon that favourably when it comes to cost. If you ask trader what they would pay for a cat c almost 7-8 year old skoda, you'd expect £1300 tops in immaculate condition(buying from the auction for example). Massive wad of history... £2k-£2.5 for the buyers market. My 56 reg with full leather & cruise was £3100 3 months ago. I worked long enough in the car game to understand valuations. Very, very important to be able to prove your mileage, however you were due a belt change soon so that may affect pricing in some buyers opinion, although its changed after the "accident". Belt snapping so young,hmmm... I'd be very suspicious of that mileage unless you prove it otherwise. To be honest, you have to really try hard to sell cat c and put it above other examples so it's impossible to ignore. All subjective anyway, and pricing "guesses" from us can offend. Prove us wrong and get £3k for it, that's what you should do :-) there's been enough complaining recently about the Fabia market being a bit slow selling with silly low offers from would be buyers. The no-frills label dont help when selling, never mind being written off.

Thanks chaps. Yet to find any UK leds that would suffice. Might involve an email to ultraleds to see if they can make these little beauties for us.

Remember that the caliper bolts ends almost touch the back of the discs, therefore they'll be very rusty. It's common that you might take the thread with you because of this poor design. If you get stuck let us know, I helicoiled mine after the thread was stripped by undoing the bolt.

Whereabouts are you? Ah Manchester.. Have you applied some penetrant spray, it's a bit like wd40 but better. That normally does it

Assuming it's a vrs... Don't drive it under hard acceleration too often, be sympathetic to ensure camshaft longivity. Rumbles could be dual mass flywheel, normally heard on tickover with an accompanying engine rock if the dogbone or engine bushes are worn. Rumbles can be fatal (bottom end), you'd need to be a bit clearer or post a video. With regards air filter... Go back to standard. You'll gain nothing really on a diesel with a k and n cone. In fact you've more chance of making your maf dirty with oil residue from these types of filter. Stay with paper types imo.

Guide now completed... have a look in Technical Guides :sun:

Hey.. Now we all like a bit of bling... it seems the Germans cottoned on to this, from around about 2002 (namely on the 7 series BMW's) when they started to shine light from the outside handles to stop you stepping into large puddles. Or dog dirt in the dark.. which ever suffices. They look good, if a little bright. Still.. time for something similar on the Fabia. I attempted this before on my old E39 5 series 530d Sport, with some success. Different handles though, and it required drilling into the handle recess. It never looked perfect, but was good practice. SO... here are the LEDS... bought from here, in 6mm form, bright white..with no lens http://www.oznium.com/led-bolt So lets get to work. The drivers side has a door lock. Now the LED bolt is a little too fat to fit in the door lock, I may attempt this at a later date but for now, you'll have to delock your car and replace the lock with a door blank. You can buy one off ebay (if you're lucky that someone is breaking a Fabia, Golf Mk4, Ibiza, Octavia etc etc.) in your car colour. Drivers door lock... Passenger door blank... (ignore the little washer) And the LED bolt which will be fitting inside.... Time to undo the blank. Take out the plastic grommets and reveal the 2 M20 screws. On the drivers side, you need to loosen to top a few turns but don't remove it (or it will fall into the door behind the carrier). Then loosen the bottom one as far as it will go. Then, the door lock will lose enough to just pull out. Don't take off the door handle, there's no need to. On the passenger side, the top screw isn't there, but the bottom one just needs unscrewing until it can't go any further (don't worry, it cannot fall into the door). Then pull out the door blank. Take the door blank, and pull it apart like so... Get yourself a selection of small drill bits.... A workbench is handy (or vice). After you get going, you'll get the the stage of drilling to about this size... start with the smallest drill bit, 2 mm size is best. Move up to 4mm when you've drilled right through, be gentle, take your time and don't rush. If you go using your biggest drill bit, youre more likely to **** it up, and drill the hole in the wrong place or too near the edge. There's no room for error whatsoever. You have been warned on this! Keep checking to see if the hole is big enough, remember it can't be huge otherwise the LED bolt will slip right through the hole youre making. The LED has a lip to ensure it doesnt slip though.. Test your LED with a 9v battery. Start to fit it in snugly... it comes with a screw washer, however the washer will NOT fit in the drilled hole. Its too tight. Glue works pretty good, Off to the car, after your glue has dried. Take off your door card... There's a guide on here for removing door handles. However, just do the following... Pop this trim off with a small flat blade and remove this torq screw.. Pull off the panel that houses the electric windows switch using a flat blade in 3 places, be careful and patient. Then slide off the armrest bit. Then undo the three philips screws... Then get to the bottom of the door. There three little Torq screws to remove.... Then begin to pull away the door card from nearest the hinge. It will come away easiest that way. You'll end up breaking door card clips in the process, they are little green b&*%$rds so you will need a few spare for when you re-fit the door card. Also, pop off the electric connectors to the mirrors and electric windows.. Then carefully lift away the door handle inner cable out of its lug hole. Then finally unclip the inner puddle light out of its housing, and the LED door nick blink light (that blinks on the drivers side when the car is armed closed). All simple enough, use common sense and dont tug at these connectors. You'll need a flat blade to slide the connectors away. Then voila... You might be lucky and see that you've suddenly got upgraded speakers (mine are Alpine) with a Crossover box! SOmething tells me I need to change my headunit very soon and fill my rear shelf with 6 x 9's! Back to the door blank fitting. Disconnect your battery... otherwise you may blow a fuse. Tie the end of the LED cable to a steel rod / straightened coat hanger, as you'll need to poke it through to this hole below. It's best positioned here to save messing around with drilling holes etc... Lazy, I know! When its through, pop the blank in the door. Don't worry about the wire, it will hang a little loose inside the carrier as it passes through the door. It shouldnt snag on the bowden cable that connects to the outer handle, careful where you position it. Tighten up the M20 screw so the door blank is back in situ safely. Tap into the interior puddle light by snipping the wires. Connect the red wire to red, black wire to the brown. You can choose to fudge it by twisting the wires together and insulate tape them, or properly use wire connectors. The latter is better of course. You need to do a neat job, be careful. Refit everything in reverse, make sure you clip back in the door handle cable in the guide when you insert into the lug. Or your door handle wont operate. Connect your battery and marvel in the twinkling light. Enjoy..!

Hmm a bit OTT for me, this one being a little more subtle.. Nice though, very bright! Just about to do the guide....

No problem... When I do the how-to tonight, I'll insert the option. I'll be very clear about the blanks and how to drill them, and tap into the interior puddle lights, if you want to attempt this. Key is, take your time, and follow my guide If you are a bit of a bodge at doing stuff, I don't mind doing it

Right, been a bit busy of late... but i've now done the passenger side, which again is dead easy. I'll be doing a full guide tonight for the front doors, looks great as you approach the car, ping your remote and the little LEDS shine towards the floor. As said, all of the current BMW range and some Audi's have this feature on all handles. Doing the back doors will be a little bit trickier, routing wiring through the B-pillar but do-able. That itself will be another guide... NB... you do NOT have to remove rivets to do this, or remove the alu-carrier. PM if you are nearby and want it doing :-) Here the LED sits, weatherproof and invisible side-on... Try and find one as neat as that! Cool huh? (The door blanks "internal parts" on the skoda fabia are plastic, so very easy to drill. mk4 golfs door blanks and the like is cast steel internally, so a bit trickier and wears out drill bits.)

Hiya.. Have you checked under the car for a boost leak? I remember I had the very same thing happen to me a few years ago, with my Golf tdi 130 (same engine). The lower Intercooler pipe that connects to the Intercooler & pancake pipe, had come away due to the bayonet connector being "worn". Therefore the clip could not keep the pipe engaged and it ke[pt slipping off.. Resulting in boost being lost before the Intercooler, and throwing an EML. Quite simple really... and the car kept going to limp mode until you turn off the car. I'd check the entire length of the IC plumbing, its your first job. If I was nearer, I'd assist and find it. Jack up the car, and get underneath. Check for splits on turbo pipe, they can be common. Check your connectors are all in good condition, you'll identify a bad join/split with oil vapourisation at the problem area. It will show signs of oil sludge/deposits, where spent gases have formed and tried to escape. Otherwise, sticking vanes can be a possibility, but less likely IMO.

It needs removing and properly testing, you'll never be able to tell on internal wear to rule that out. Perfectly normal to have a bit of outer "wear".. remember how old it is and how many revolutions it's done over the years...runs into millions! Fin damage or if it's touching the sides means it needs changing. You need to see what the exhaust side looks like /wastegate.

Fixed mine today. I received my m12 spline and set to work removing steering wheel, shroud and the squib. The clock spring on my car was much more loose to turn than the replacement, likely wiring was loose or something had come away inside it. All back together, cleared airbag light with my handheld obd. Sorted! :-) took 30mins

Is it possible though that a coded out airbag issue,or even anything coded out, can return with a warning light ?

Thinking of going the gold route with my 16's... but darker "bronze", might even decal the body for a "laugh"!

Going bigger can ruin the ride/handling/acceleration but only to more extreme sizes. I think 17's are about as big as you should go with a Fabia, I'm rather more satified with 16's. 18's on a mk4 Golf (i did this) are too big, but look great, depends what you want from your car. Looks or drivability is the question. he 17's look a bit more dramatic in Spider form. 16's Spiders look a bit more ordinary strangely. If it was me, i'd go with 16's and lower it

thanks mate.. this was this issue reported on mine in Nov 2011 http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220290-airbag-warning-light/ Either he's bought a cheapo one from a scrappie, or coded out and it's returned.(if that is possible)

I have this also... Checked with my obd Orange scanner. Although you don't get the extra reasoning like on vcds. Mine came on when I beeped the horn bizarrely. Horn still works, light came on?! Ordered a slip ring, have it now so will be fitting shortly when a get myself the splice nut to remove the steering wheel. Mine has cruise also...and this works perfect. Is it possible that if someone coded out the error, it can come back after a certain time? This is the case with Bmws, they have a "counter" that can be reset but begin to count back each time the ignition is turned. I'm hedging bets on this as brocko, the last owner of mine, had the issue 2 years ago and didn't say he'd sorted it. He did have vcds as he tried to sell that to me with the car. Sorry to butt in the thread. If I change the slip ring and it was that which was faulty, will my handheld scanner clear the error? I've cleared faults with it before with my mk4 golf

I've owned loads of cars. I tend to buy a car just for its engine, the PD although agricultural in sound, is as good as it gets for a 4 pot diesel for power, reliability and torque. It ticks the boxes, easy to fix and mod..so why not?

I just fitted some Vredestein Ultrac Cento's. Very quiet,deep tread and so far are absolutely excellent. Highly recommended imo and this was also from a very good friend that is a tyre fitter for a living. Lovely tyre wall design too, very bling :-)

The ASV becomes deleted on ASZ when you EGR delete. Pretty sure it's the same with BLT