WAUOla
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Visited the dealership recently. This new platform seems really promising with big gains in the boot! But, the seating comfort of Enyaq into a compact Elroq is most likely better. And, upon opening in configurator here in Norway, I find no tow hook besides "preparations", pushing me in the direction of the Elroq instead.
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Our Roomster 1.2 TSI 105 hp DSG-7 speed gearbox is acting up, badly. I already gave it the service kit of fluids + new pressure container, but to no significant improvement... Thus, I am now also having a Polo 1.2T DSG-7 parked outside, would an easy attempt to make things work be getting that 0AM gearbox over into to Roomster? I have no idea what it would take to separate a DSG box from the engine, and reinstall another in terms of anything no longer compatible with gearbox management etc.
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Hi everyone! I have not, and probably will never become, the worlds greatest car audio head there is, but a black week sale led me on the journey to upgrade the OEM speakers. Since I only want to get a little more out of things without going over the top, my plan is to stick to the Amundsen+ (is only 4x14W RMS ?) and just swap speakers. A set of Hertz Dieci 6,5" component speakers found its way home, as I was okay with their price point, they rated well on sensibility (which is smart given the 14W RMS) and had a OK range coverage. Now tweeters are fit into the unmounted A-pillar covers, and I cut off the OEM connectors to reuse with the Hertz. Because the stock tweeters have an integral filter (capasitor), I assume their supply cable is running in parallel with those to the stock mid & low range speakers. Thus it would be no good to reuse for the Hertz, as split cabling is needed. Looking at the door-to-chassis transition, I wonder what would be the better routing as the connector in A-pillar seems to take up most of the available space there. I did note an additional, smaller, grommet below the big one that might be of use. What would you recommend as solution for getting a speaker signal from the doors to the tweeters ?
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I support this. I was having a leak from a poor connection, and when looking underneath HEY PRESTO! looked like the back box had exploded. The one-piece is a **** piece. Was happy to have it replaced by 2 x Bosal items...
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So, sorry for asking, but I really struggle finding any info re. the following message in the instruction booklet, local language or English versions. When I kill the ignition, the maxi-dot states a warning about "Check Safe function! Instruction booklet!". Tried reading fault codes, nothing specific there. Any ideas ? (New battery in keyfob tested, no success)
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This is interesting. Are we talking model year or production year ? I sincerely fear our belowed 2013 'Family' has been given it's death sentence by a failing DQ200... It differes on day to day basis, but early symptoms is it slams into next gear on semi-load, and jutters somewhat now and then. The other day it totally lost its drive, jut revving and triggering the EPC and check engine light. I fear it is a local cost of approx 2500 GBP, for a car worth 2500-3000 GBP, so I'm a bit bummed out and need a proper estimate on this prior to adding more cost to it in other service parts needed too. 😞
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Hiya! In our 2013 'Family' car, it came with an Amundsen non-DAB unit. Lukcikly though, it features the Media-in interface, which then happily is getting a OEM looking solution by using the Dension DAB module and getting a knock-off Media-in USB cable. This was MY preferred choice, as I could keep with the obvious standard Amundsen interface + the Dension is power fed from the USB itself + it was only a matter of getting the DAB+ antenna to the rear side window for stealthy looks. This works by simulating DAB stations as .mp3 files, so radio is incognito as a "music memory stick". But I seldom jump stations, so I'm happy with it!
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Oh, I just soldered my repair kit.
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Happy to help! We got ours fitted with the removable hook - it never goes off. Then again, the Scout design bumbers are ugly with the cover in place, so...
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Hi! our Roomster is up for being USED and is regularly towing my (down rates) 1300kg boggie trailer. Works quite well with the 1.2 105hp/DSG7 combo, except gearbox seems to be jittering now. Towing the weight limit of approx 670kg in the 330kg trailer does work. 600 net kg shouldn't be an issue...
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So ours Octy is also making a mess of the rear hatch drive by the electrical dampers - at least one needs replacement for sure! Not as fancy as the OEM option at the quote 2x€700 price level, but this pair is of interest. Dealership would need to decode some locking function if going back to non-electrical, and that even was €500... I am looking into a pair of these https://www.ebay.de/itm/265291129001?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220822113838%26meid%3D36ab3a232a3c46f5be2ca69a6f2500ff%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D265291129001%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab0805855-0e8e-11ee-902c-fe169c3ddf39|parentrq%3Ad34452bb1880ab8fbea40e83fffc0310|iid%3A1 Is it as simple as plug n play, or are there some coding needed when strictly doing a replacement ?
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Boot light been out for a long time (I guessed a damaged wiring inside the cabin). Rear wiper gave up some weeks ago. Rear lock gave up some days ago. I suppose I need the Febi/Vevo cable repair kit to get this going (after getting the rear hatch lock opened), but can I believe the boot light to return from this ?
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So what I take from this, is that 312mm discs are highly likely to be a direct fitment if/when a set of new calipper carriers for the 57mm items are fitted for a reposition of calipers. All in all I've been quite pleased with the Octavia brakes, they do have sufficient daily bite. And this probably puts me towards going for the Brembo Max discs for that little extra without reconfiguring much.
