51MM3

Yes, I'm fully aware that water temp and engine temp is two different things. The reason I'm referring most to water temp is because I primarily did this to get hot air from the acc quicker. Savings in wear and fuel is a bonus.

I think I might have read it somewhere now that you mention it. Did a quick temp check when I was about to pick the kids up from school. Was around 6⁰c out and the heater thermostat hadn't shut it off. Temp gauge showed 55⁰c when I turned the car on, if one would assume it's linear scale

The electric heater is connected to the same electrical system as the coupe heater, which in turn has a connector mounted in the lower front grille in which a plug a cable from the power outlet on our house. I can't really tell how much of the power goes to the heater coil and the built in pump, but a small circulation pump doesn't draw much power, so I would estimate that almost all of those 1100w goes to the heater coil. Correct, I installed the coupe heater to defrost the car, but as I didn't want to buy the heater DEFA offer (300w heating element screwed to the outside of the engine block) I settled for only the coupe heater. I wasn't happy with only coupe heater as we can get as cold as -25⁰c here, and it will defrost enough of the car but as soon as I set off cold air will be blown in by the climatronicnand it took ages for it to get hot. That's why I started to search for a engine heater again. So now I have the 1.1kw engine heater heating the coolant and the engine while the 1.1-1.3kw coupe heater defrost the car and minimize the need to use most of the heat in the water to get the coupe up to temp when driving off.

Update #2 This morning was a bit colder with a ambient temp of -3⁰c. Ran the heater for 1h together with the coupe heater. Water temp was 65-70⁰c but almost instantly increased to 75⁰c when I started the car. It reached a water temp of 90⁰c within 2km/3min and oil temp of 50⁰c within 3km/3-4min. It heat up faster even though it was colder outside but it's probably due to it pumping the hot water in to the engine first and running for longer before it will reach its shut of temp. Never thought it would be so effective. It will be really interesting to see how it performs when the temperature drops even lower. I can also notice that the fuel consumption is an low I can get it doing the school drop off route during the summer. 5/5 recommend

Thanks for all your input, here's an update. I had a good look on the good ol interwebs after a good heater. I found cheap 1500w ones from china being sold all over amazon and other websites, or there were a few other options with Russian name and text on them but they are easily found directly on Chinese sites as well. I didn't feel like putting some no-brand china unit in the car as the consequences of a malfunction would be severe. Found this one sold by a small Swedish company, surely imported somewhere from china as everything is, but at least I will have protection through Swedish consumer Laws if something were to happen. It is 1.1kw with built in pump, cost equivalent to £130 with shipping, feels like good build quality and it has a serious electrical connector made for pre heaters and coupe heaters, and I already had a heater inside the car using that system. I went ahead and mounted it on the hose between the expansion tank and connector on the hose between engine and heater matrix with the thought that the water would have to flow through either heater matrix or engine. First placement didn't work as a problem with air inside it occured, fortunately it survived as I realized this risk and and filled the heater before mounting it. Moved it a bit on the same hose to a better location where the air would escape easier, and this time it worked, but... It isn't clear in the flow chart, but the water doesn't have to take its way through the engine or heater matrix, it just "turned" the wrong way and returned to the tank through the water pump and return hose, so nothing got heated apart from the water in those two hoses and the tank. I got mad and yesterday I finally relocated it to one of the hoses between the engine and the heater matrix. Made room in the garage, put the front end on stands, got under it, removed the plastic underneath the engine, squeezed my hands in to the tiny space where it could fit and got to work. Many swear words and some coolant in the eye later, I got it in place. Tested it this morning, it ran for 40-45 minutes before reaching it's set temp where it stops until the temp drops. I got in to the car and to my surprise the coolant temp read 75⁰c. It was +4⁰c outside (car says +6⁰c in picture but that's due to the heater, and during the night the temp were down to 1⁰c), so not really that cold but still. It appears to circulate the water through all of the engine and heater matrix as the temp didn't drop at all when I started the car. The manual says it should stop at 55⁰c and start again below 40⁰c, but it seems like it goes higher as the car indicated higher temp. Great success and so worth all of the trubble. A DEFA heater wouldn't come near these results.

So I talked to a friend who works for VAG stealership and got hold of the schematics for the cooling system for 1.0TSI. It's quite similar but not exactly as the one for 1.2TSI. I haven't checked if it's physically possible yet but my plan is to mount it like shown in the very professionally edited photo: (Värmare is heater in Swedish) So mount the heater on the pipe leading to the heater matrix. It appears that there is a unrestricted circuit between the heater matrix, engine, expansion tank, apart from the water pump which should have some kind of flow through it anyways. I will have to see if the hose is accessible to cut in to, and also se what kind of flow a heater will have through it when turned off. I don't want to restrict the cooling system when the car is running and if it will restrict I'll have to make a separate hose to slice in at the anti backflow valve and put one on the heater line as well

Thanks! By looking at it I feel like mine is more like the one I posted. It has a different aux pump for the turbocharger and when it's running the coolant flows through the expansion tank which it doesn't seem to do in this one

I found this schematic for 1.2tsi, and if the basics are the same it should be possible to put a heater with pump and backflow valve (?) in parallel to the existing one at the top of the image. This circuit seems to be open with only restriction through the water pump it self but this type of pump usually are centrifugal and will let water flow through it

Ah yes, the good old days! Still miss my 740 turbo I had with welded diff and 680.000kms on the clock! It handled like a boat but it was comfy, fun and went sideways everywhere. Also had a Saab og 9-3 aero 2.0t for a little while. Yes the consumer rights is one thing I love. I would never in my life start a second hand car dealership. The dealer I bought my previous octy from probably made a loss. They had to replace the battery, driver's seat undercarriage as there was excessive play in the height adjustment, bought it in winter with studded tires on and when I put the summer tires on I had vibrations, checked the tires and they had flat spots all four of them so they had to pay for a full new set to be put on.

Saab is unfortunately long gone, and they were already gone in the end of their time when they were bought by GM (?). Volvo is no longer Swedish as well and I don't really like their cars to be honest. My in-laws love Volvo but to me the cars are not comfortable to drive. Yes there is loads of space in the V70 they have but there is no joy what so ever driving it. It's just heavy, no supports in the seat and so on. They are much bigger than I am so I get that they like it but it's a big no for me. Plus the price is outrageously high, even in the second hand market. They can go for £5000-8000 more than a octy does.. Don't know how long warranty Volvo offer but Skoda & VW have as far as I know standard 2 year warranty and 3 year car damage warranty (basically free insurance to get it fixed if crashed but you still need separate insurance to pay for the damage done to other involved if it's your fault and theft). We've had octys in the family since the first RS was launched here and Skoda is great value for what you get. Less baby disease as the tech usually have been launched at Audi and VW before coming to the "cheaper" brand. Had a salesman at Skoda tell me why they didn't offer longer warranty, it was "because we know our cars doesn't break down".... I didn't purchase from him. We also have very good consumer protection laws here. If I buy anything from a dealer or store, and doesn't matter what it is basically, will I have the right to leave a complaint within 3 years of purchase for any fault occuring, withing the 2 first years they have to prove that I've caused the fault through wrongful use or something, otherwise it's considered as the fault was there at purchase, even if it's a used item as a car. To not be responsible they have to declare all faults and the customer have to sign off on the declaration. Anything bot in the declaration is considered a fault they are responsible for. And we can get good insurance policys if the car isn't too old. I can get almost every fault that's not serviceable parts like pads, discs etc fixed through the insurance, so I don't care much about the dealers and their warranty's as I have very good protection as there is.

That's correct, that's he reason most diesel cars here are fitted with aux heater from factory even if you don't buy it as an option. The option is basically to be able to use it when the car is parked. In my Octavia mk III 2.0tdi 150 DSG I have the option to change in the options if the car should start it automatically if needed while driving. Diesel doesn't generate as much heat while running so without it there would be problems getting the temp up when it's -20⁰c outside. This is a part of the reason why diesel has higher efficiency than gasoline.

No worries! Yes on a mk1 I wouldn't even give it a thought. I have tried to get home of workshop manual without success. I know for a fact that it at least have a aux electric pump to keep cooling the turbo if it's still hot when the car is shut off.

No issue with cold start or running cold, I would just prefere to have it warm quicker. Yes there are inline heaters where you cut a hose and just clamp it between the two pieces of hose. The manufacturers say this is no longer an option for some reason, probably because they are lazy and don't want to test it on every model as the can just tell every dealer to mount a 300w heater block on the outside of the oil pan and people not nowing better will be happy. But I still don't want to waste time and money on installing a inline water heater if the system won't allow for any circulation.

Interesting! Didn't know the Webasto was available for 1.0 TSI. It's typically an option for diesel cars as many have the need for aux heater while running anyways. And I've never seen one fitted with it here. A Webasto heater will sadly be too expensive to retrofit. I would be able to retrofit electric one myself.

I live in Sweden so I have a LHD car. I looked in to Webasto and contacted a local retrofitter and he told me that it might cause the same issue with the car throwing codes, and it was like £2000 or something for something that might not work. I'm Mostly interested in warming it in the morning when I'm at home anyways so having to plug it in isn't an issue. There are several electric heaters with circulation pump that should at least work in theory as long as the coolant is allowed to flow through the system. The systems tend to get more and more technically advanced so I don't know if one could rely on manual thermostats opening when the coolant get hot enough to allow circulation