51MM3

This is the solution DEFA and Calix provide, and to me it's just plain stupidity as the heater itself will radiate most of the heat to the air and then the sump will radiate a lot as well.

Well it might but I don't think its as sensetive as the coolant system which I assume have several temp sensors for stop start etc. The block heater that is the available solution from Defa and Calix heat the oil but ineffectively from the outside. I will definitely look in to the pan heaters, it will not have the same quick result as the water heater but will probably help quite a bit

Maby! Have been thinking about a solution like that but haven't actually seen those. Would prefer if it was 220V as it would run together with the heater I have in the car from a outlet on our house, but a small converter would work. I have found cheap chinese universal 1500w heaters with pump for reasonable price but the question is then if the water circuit would be open or if there are valves that could be in closed position while the car is turned off. Oil heater could be preferable as the water heater might cause the issue with high temp differences in the system causing fault codes, but the water heater on the other hand has way higher heat output

It's not insulated at all, the instructions tell you to cut away insulation a couple of cm around it if the sump is insulated from factory. I replied and asked what the reason to bot insulate it is and they said that insulating it will cause it to overheat and melt. So I'm my opinion you will not get close to transfer even most of the heat to the sump as a large portion will radiate away. It would probably be more efficient with a 150w heater that's insulated on the outside and not rely on contact heat transfer on only one side of the heater. To me it just sounds like they only care about keeping manufacturing costs low and profit high as no one in their right mind would think their solution would be energy efficient. So it might be possible to activate that pump alone depending on the control circuit and assuming there's no need to activate anything else to open any valves. I'm only interested in heating the engine and not the inside of the car as I already have a heater for that, but it would be nice to have the engine pre-warmed to get it up to temp quicker and less wear on the engine itself.

Hi, I'm looking for engine heater solutions for my Fabia. It's a 2020 1.0tsi and I have noticed it pumping cool and for 30 seconds or so after turning it off, so I assume it's an electric pump. Do anyone know if it's possible to activate the pump somehow when the car is off, like it's done when the car is fitted with aux heater. The reason is that I would like to fit a in line engine heater, but when I had a chat with the engine heater manufacturer they said that in line water heaters aren't available anymore as modern cars have too much electronics, valves and pumps in the cooling system so there will not be sufficient self circulation and that the car might interpret the difference in temperature value between sensors as faults, causing the checked engine light to come on. The solution is a block heater mounted on the outside of the oil pan, but to me that's just plain stupidity as most of the heat will disappear out in to the cold air and not actually heat the engine. The in line heaters are usually 500-750w but a block heater is only around 300w. I don't like wasting my money heating the outdoor air so I would like to find some way to activate the cars heater pump to circulate the water getting even heat in the system. Thanks in advance.

Hi, We have a my17 Octavia 2.0tdi 150 DSG with 60000km on it. I was having a check under the hood and noticed that the coolant is dark brown instead of red and have a lot of oxide or other contaminations in it. I stuck my fingers in it and it feels mor or less like normal water, and not quite as slippery as antifreeze usually feels. The car was serviced 4 month ago so I went back to the stealership who said this happens easily on diesel engines, but he couldn't tell me why when I questioned that as it's a closed watersystem and not like the oil that usually get sot in it. He continued to tell me that the only check in the service is checking the freezing temperature of it.. He told me that I can let them change it if I would like, but I don't think that's gonna happen. I'll go somewhere else in that case. Any how.. Have anyone had the same issue? Don't know if they have mixed different coolant types or if it might be oil in it? The oil is normal and no trace of water in it. No smoke from exhaust and it runs fine. I have never experienced coolant going bad so to say and changing color. The car is going to another stealer In a month as there is no hot air on the passenger side.

Thanks for replies! Sorry see that I forgot to add some info after editing the text.. It's a 2014 with 120000kms on it. Serviced as it should, I'm the 2nd owner and we live a bit outside town and the shortest trip we do is 9kms when picking up kids but we regularly do longer trips where it's at least 20-30 minutes of motorway driving and about 35kms one way. When it's colder outside we usually let the diesel parking heater run at least 30mins before we go so it's quite quick to get to temp. It has DPF but never had the light come in, it does regenerate as i know the smell and it usually let the cooler fan run after its parked if a regeneration has been done and it's warmer than normal. We've had 4 octavias with 2.0tdi and DPF since 2009 in the family and those have never had any issues, even though have been driven much shorter on daily basis. Shi*t, sorry, meant 200km a day, 100km per trip, not 20km/day. We in Sweden usually use the measurement of mil which is 1mil = 10kms, that's why I missed a 0..

Hi, Got a octavia estate 2.0TDI DSG 150hp about 2 years ago, and I have not been satisfied with the fuel consumption. Its always been a bit higher then i have expected it to be but its just terrible att the moment. I have been driving 20km/day this week, same stretch every day and its had an average of 6.6l/100km or 35mpg. Ive been driving it as light as i can and on back roads it does about 5.4-5.5l/100km or 42mpg, but as soon as i enter the motorway it start to climb fast! On the motorway it does 6-7l/100km or 30-40mpg at speeds around 110-120km/h. No load on the car. My dad have got a -17 octavia with same engine but the euro-6 engine and not estate while mine is the euro-5 engine, and it does about 4.7l/100km or 50+mpg or even better on the same stretch. I get that might have less drag as mine is an estate and his have the updated eu-6 engine but my old 07 octavia 2.0RSTDI 170 estate did about 5.6l/100km or 42mpg on motorway, wich is way less then the octy 3 i have now, and its bugging me real hard. Any advice on what might be causing it or is it just the way they are? Tirepressure is correct and alignment is done.

Hi, I changed to winter tires yesterday and discovered that the front tire on the left hand side is worn pretty bad on the inside edge. I would say this is due to camber problem but is it possible to change camber on the MK3 (non-VRS)? We've never had an accident happen or anything else as far as we know. Only thing that's been done is that I changed the wheel bearing before the summer on both sides, but nothing can be put back in the wrong way as far as I know, and when I check everything looks fine. The bearing looks like it's in place and I can't see any gaps between the bearing and the hub/spindel (correct name?) but I haven't removed the brakes to inspect it closer. I feel like the breaks should show sign of wear if it saw the bearing as well as the disc would be out of line in relation to the pads as well, if it was something wrong with the bearing. Tires have done 2 summer seasons and the picture show both front tires.

Hi. Yesterday I started to notice a humming/drone noise in the car with my knowledge think that it's the wheel bearing on the front left side. It's most noticeable somewhere around 60-70kmh (35 - 45mph). It also increase when I turn right. The tyres should be fine, bought them new last spring so I don't think they cause the noise. Is it possible to do the bearing change on the drive way? I have the tools for it as far as I know and after some Google search I get the impression that the bearing is bought with the surrounding hub so it's a bolt of - bolt on job without the need for pressing any bearings. I'm quite confident that I've got the knowledge to do the job. Have fount the part for about 50-60pounds on different sites. Have anyone here done it and have a guide or some other tips? It's a Octy mk3 2014 150TDI DSG

This is a guide to fix your ESP light on after 10 minutes problem. I did this on a 1.9tdi I guess its the same on other engines as well but I'm not 100% sure. Anyways. I just had this problem. The ESP light comes on after exactly 10 minutes of driving/engine on. I fixed it in less than 10 minutes and so can you! It is most likely that it is due to a broken cable. It seems to be a very common cause. Here is a simple guide how to fix it! What you need: A clipper to cut and remove isolation on cables. Cable of choice aprox 10-15cm long. (2 leaders) Something to connect the cabled with (see picture. I don't know the english word) Some isolating tape. Step 1. Get under the car and remove the plastic protection cover under the radiator/engine. step 2. Locate the broken cable. It is located behind the lower part of the radiator. See pic 1. step 3. Remove the connector if the cable ends sticking out are too short to get the new extending cable attached. I had to cut the connector of. Step 4. Get your extension cables and connect the cables according to colour. Then make sure the cables are isolated with tape. step 5. put the plastic undertray back and you are done! I had a bit of struggle to get a hold of anyone knowing what the problem might be so i hope this was useful!

Power steering problem is not sorted yes but I checked the fluid level and it is way under minimum so I will fill it up and hope that is the issue

About the power steering. I checked the fluid and it's way below min level so I wilk fill it up and hope for the best

ESP problem SOLVED!!I have now found and sorted the esp problem! It was a broken wire as you linked to! The wire and connector is located behind the radiator. You have to remove the plastic cover under the engine but in my case is it missing so i found it dangeling immediately. I realized that I saw it a few month ago when the car was at the yearly safety inspection. how to fix it! I just removed the connector and put a straight cable between instead I post a few pics so you can see

Oh is see! I will take a look at it today! Thank you very much for sharing the thread! I'll come back with update layer when I have checked the cable