alw70

Yes - oil and oil filter replaced. It's always used a bit of oil in the 30000 miles or so of my ownership (can't really say how much - just checked regularly and topped up if necessary probably every few months) but can't say that it's using more now than it has previously. Garage have raised the question mark over the oil pump - clearly it cannot have failed completely as there is still oil pressure the vast majority of the time. I cannot justify the cost of investigation (believe the stretch bolts alone are £60 + the labour to drop the sump) let alone replacement (£900 for a new module) on the off chance that 'it might be starting to go' - my thoughts on the engineers (though from my experience of working in the automotive industry - they were probably the suppliers) who designed the pump to be integral with the balance shaft module are best kept to myself.

Hi all, Have been having some issues with my TFSI VRS recently with the low oil pressure warning light coming up on the dash. I took it into the garage to have the sump taken off, cleaned and for the oil pickup pipe to be cleaned out also. They also replaced the oil pressure switch with 06D919081B just in case and tested the pressure. It was 4 bar at 2000rpm but only 1 bar at idle (which they thought might be a bit low, although they did say that Skoda do not give a book value for the pressure at idle). Since they did the work, I didn't have the oil pressure warning again until a week afterwards, when it flashed up midway through a longer drive. It stayed on until I stopped the car and ignition cycled - there was no change in the noise of the engine and there were no problems for the rest of the journey. Since then it come on once more another week later - same story, no change in engine sound, it cleared with an ignition cycle and didn't come back for the rest of the journey. Does anyone have any ideas what could be going on? I can't pinpoint any particular conditions that trigger the warning - the first time was pulling away from a set of traffic lights and the second was changing lane on a dual carriageway. I've had one idea but not sure if it's relevant or not - the cluster that is in the car is not the original cluster (it came from a 2.0 FSI and Ed coded it in for me a few years ago). Using VCDS on the measuring blocks for the oil pressure sender in the instrument cluster, it calls it a 0.9 bar switch - whereas the switch in my TFSI is actually 1.2 - 1.6 bar. Does this mean that the cluster could be giving spurious warnings thinking that the pressure is 0.9 bar or below when it in fact might be 1.6 bar? Any ideas if there's some adaptation I can do to the cluster to change the type of switch it thinks it should have? Thanks, Alex

To check that the small fan really has failed you need to run the output test for the fan controller using VCDS. If the fan doesn't run during the test, it's knackered. You can replace the small fan on its own, when mine failed I got a second hand one from eBay and it was very straightforward to change. Jack the front of the car up, undertray off. Unplug the main plug to the fan unit from underneath the car, undo the two screws holding the fans under the car. Undo the last two screws at the top of the fans and pull the fans out upwards. Change the fan and then refit!

What sorted it out for me was unscrewing the glovebox and then refitting it with a fibre washer at every fixing point. It was terrible before and is now as quiet as a mouse! There are three fixings along the top, two at either side along the bottom and then I found another couple of potential 'squeak points' in the dash structure - so you should need 7-8 washers tops. I just used a little bit of superglue to hold them to the glovebox before fitting, as there would be no way to hold them in place when refitting the glovebox otherwise. Hope this helps!

Hi all. My rear bumper has been bugging me for a while now so have finally decided to try and do something about it. When the car last went in to have some work done (fitting rear parking sensors) it seems that they didn't refit the rear bumper properly, so I want to have a go at refitting it myself. I've read that it should be a relatively straightforward task, but all the links to guides from searches for previous topics on the forum are dead. So does anyone have a step-by-step guide with pictures of the rear bumper removal process? All I've got is the workshop guide which doesn't seem particularly helpful. Thanks!

That sounds like thermostat - I had the same issues, got it changed and it now gets to 90 quicker and stays there rock steady! Haven't had a chance to do any long journeys yet to see if fuel economy has changed.

I found a used replacement on eBay. Just be careful not to get one that is too old as the battery degrades. It is in a box under the right front wing. Unscrew the arch liner at the back to get at the metal box which the alarm siren is in. Undo two nuts and bend the box open (it's riveted to the wing at one corner). Unplug the old siren and then plug the new one in. screw everything back together and you're done!

Aha - I've found out what's going on via some experimentation. It turns out that when locking, pressing the button twice deactivates the alarm. I shall have to learn in future to lock the car with only one button press!

Hi, Working through the list of faults I had with my car - I had no comms with the interior monitoring sensor and the alarm siren. I assumed that this was because they had died, so needed replacing. The behaviour of the driver's door LED was fast flashing for a few seconds, followed by a longer period of the LED solid on, finally followed by slow flashing. I replaced the siren today and found that the no comms dtc for the alarm siren still wouldn't clear. I therefore did what I should have done in the first place and checked the alarm system fuse (no. 35) and found that it had been put in slot 34. I put it back into the correct slot and cleared the fault codes, they didn't return. However, the alarm still doesn't seem to be working. When I lock the car, the driver's door LED does fast flashing for a few seconds, is then off for about 30 seconds and then starts slowly flashing (whereas it's meant to go straight to slow flashing when it stops fast flashing). If I lock myself in the car and move about, it doesn't set the alarm off, so something's not right. Has anyone seen this problem before / got any ideas? Thanks, Alexander

Sounds like it could be an issue with the PCV or one of the hoses connected to it - there are lots of threads about it. This one is particularly good: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=44709.0 it's for the VW Golf GTI, but the engine is the same as the VRS.

I had the same code for the radio - 01044 - control module incorrectly coded. Go into the long coding and change it from 050004000001 to 020004000001, clear the code and it shouldn't come back (at least this worked for me). As for the engine ones, I'm not really sure. They all relate to intermittent comms, I'd check the wiring and that all the connectors are tight to the can gateway and at the back of the bolero. Probably also worth checking the CAN gateway coding again. Hope this helps, Alexander

The connector is really easy to get to - just slide the seats back and there is a small plastic panel that can be unclipped. The connectors are underneath. Just make sure that you don't let the garage charge you for doing it - or even worse let the garage think that they fixed the problem after fixing it yourself!

Hi, When changing my cam follower yesterday I have cross threaded the brass fixing for the high pressure fuel line where the silver hardline nut threads onto - it's the bit circled in red in the attached pictures. From searching online, it seems that you can't get the brass fixing separately; apparently you can only get it with a whole new fuel pump. Does anyone know any different - or if anyone has replaced their fuel pumps or got a spare broken one lying around then I'd be very happy to take the brass fixing off your hands for a reasonable price! Thanks, Alexander

I had a fault come up with the airbag on the drivers side due to a random issue with the connector under the seat. If there is a momentary loss of contact it'll throw the warning light; the code and the warning light remain until cleared, even if contact is resumed. I used some cable ties to hold the connectors tight together and the light hasn't ever come on since - you might want to try that first before cutting out all of the connectors and soldering the seat wiring directly to the loom.

So I've just had the engine cover off and investigated around the hoses with the engine running. It seems that as well as replacing my PCV, I should have also replaced the PCV plastic pipes as the long one seems to be leaking where it goes into the engine under the manifold (the idle goes crazy when I wiggle it). So a visit to TPS, and I'll replace both of the pipes and hopefully it'll be sorted (although getting the old one off at the bottom looks a bit tricky). If anyone knows the part numbers for the two plastic hoses that connect to the PCV that would be appreciated. On a worrying note, I also noticed that my alternator housing is cracked - one of the four mounting brackets has sheared off. It's a fairly impressive thickness of metal to break, but the fatigue due to engine vibrations won't have helped. I'll have to try some epoxy weld as a temporary fix.