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When the ECU packed up on mine it was in the garage for 3 weeks. 1 week to confirm the problem and 2 weeks awaiting a new ECU as it has to come from the factory as it is pre-coded to the car. The car was a few months out of warranty but it still cost me £400 with the rest (I can't remember how much they said it was) being picked up by Skoda and that was in spite of the fact that the ECU should last the life of the car!

Check to see if you have a stone stuck between the disc and the backplate on one of the front wheels.

Well done - the 1st attempt to answer the actual question asked!

I'm with you on the torque converter gearbox. One of the reasons I bought a CR-V as they were one of the few petrol autos to use these gearboxes. I say "were" because even Honda appear to have moved away from them, meaning I will be keeping mine for some time. No doubt we will get the usual chorus of "they sap power", "they push up petrol consumption, etc. etc., however I couldn't give a t*ss about that. What I do like about them is they are extremely easy to use with no hidden peculiar characteristics, i.e. Put it into drive until destination reached, put it in park, having been around since the 30's, they are pretty much fault free if not abused and they are totally predictable in operation. Standing by for the flack.

Clue's in the word "Portugal" in the signature line.

In the 4 years i had my Yeti, i had the rear seats in it once, rest of the time they were sheeted and stored in the garage. I also made a wooden platform that fitted in where the rear seats would have been. It was held firmly in place by the rear seat fixing brackets. It gave me a totally flat loading space from behind the front seats to the lip of the boot which suited exactly what i required. In honesty a van would probably have suited me better but the Yeti had various advantages that appealed to me, so i believe i got the best of both worlds.

You've ignored my point. Something that can't be relied upon not to give false readings (I had 2 on my Yeti) is as much use as earache. That's why I've now got something that can be relied upon and if it isn't working it's immediately apparent. I never even mentioned "look and kick" so I don't know where that came from. I also never mentioned it wasn't a legal requirement. My system is in addition to the car's system and it's the one I take notice of now.

That was exactly my problem, i.e. the the system told me there was a problem when there wasn't. This proved quite exciting when I had to pull over onto the hard shoulder of a motorway and visually check there was nothing significant that had to be dealt with immediately before pulling off at the next junction and checking all 4 tyres with a gauge to determine I hadn't got a problem at all. A thing of the past for me now.

I wasn't impressed either with the TPMS on the Yeti or the similar one on my CR-V. When it alarms you then have to stop and check each tyre unless it's obvious where the problem is and my experience is that they are often false. All in all this type of system appears not to be overly reliable. I have therefore invested in a TyrePal. This system provides a continuous real time reading of the pressure and temperature of each tyre, including the spare if required. Now when I get the inevitable alarm from the car's TPMS, i just glance at the TyrePal screen and if all is OK (which it normally is) I just keep going and reset the car's system when convenient. It also means regular checking of tyre pressures is a thing of the past. I've had the Tyrepal on 2 cars now for over 2 years and apart from a battery change on the sensors, it has worked without a problem. Just for completeness, I have no connection whatsoever with TyrePal and I assume similar products are available from other manufacturers.

No doubt caused by standard summer tyres, oh and it is not possible to manually "put a Yeti into 4WD". I suspect you mean you activated the OR button which is not for traversing roundabouts. It's all in the manual.

Agreed, my wife's Yaris does exactly that. 1st thing driving away in cold weather there is often a squeak or rattle fron the dash area. As soon as the car warms up they disappear. In the warm weather they are non-existent.

I bough a set of non-OE alloys for use with cold weather tyres for my CR-V. The centre bore was slightly larger (71.6mm) than the OE wheels (64.1mm) and they came with a set of spigot rings reducing the wheels' centre bore to the correct size. I didn't have to ask for them, they were included FOC as I had included the details of the car they were going on when I ordered the wheels. Spigot rings are a standard way of adjusting wheels with over-size centre bores to fit a car's hub.

In the 60's and 70's it wasn't unusual to see cars crabbing, i.e. being offset from the parallel, when being driven. When stopped and the distances between the centres on the 2 wheels on each side of the vehicle were measured, they often showed differences of up to 3 inches. Good evidence for "Dangerous Condition" under the Con & Use Regs.

I would have thought that in Denmark cold weather tyres are the norm for all vehicles in winter unless they keep them on all year round.