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When the ECU packed up on mine it was in the garage for 3 weeks. 1 week to confirm the problem and 2 weeks awaiting a new ECU as it has to come from the factory as it is pre-coded to the car. The car was a few months out of warranty but it still cost me £400 with the rest (I can't remember how much they said it was) being picked up by Skoda and that was in spite of the fact that the ECU should last the life of the car!

Check to see if you have a stone stuck between the disc and the backplate on one of the front wheels.

Well done - the 1st attempt to answer the actual question asked!

I'm with you on the torque converter gearbox. One of the reasons I bought a CR-V as they were one of the few petrol autos to use these gearboxes. I say "were" because even Honda appear to have moved away from them, meaning I will be keeping mine for some time. No doubt we will get the usual chorus of "they sap power", "they push up petrol consumption, etc. etc., however I couldn't give a t*ss about that. What I do like about them is they are extremely easy to use with no hidden peculiar characteristics, i.e. Put it into drive until destination reached, put it in park, having been around since the 30's, they are pretty much fault free if not abused and they are totally predictable in operation. Standing by for the flack.

Clue's in the word "Portugal" in the signature line.

In the 4 years i had my Yeti, i had the rear seats in it once, rest of the time they were sheeted and stored in the garage. I also made a wooden platform that fitted in where the rear seats would have been. It was held firmly in place by the rear seat fixing brackets. It gave me a totally flat loading space from behind the front seats to the lip of the boot which suited exactly what i required. In honesty a van would probably have suited me better but the Yeti had various advantages that appealed to me, so i believe i got the best of both worlds.

You've ignored my point. Something that can't be relied upon not to give false readings (I had 2 on my Yeti) is as much use as earache. That's why I've now got something that can be relied upon and if it isn't working it's immediately apparent. I never even mentioned "look and kick" so I don't know where that came from. I also never mentioned it wasn't a legal requirement. My system is in addition to the car's system and it's the one I take notice of now.

That was exactly my problem, i.e. the the system told me there was a problem when there wasn't. This proved quite exciting when I had to pull over onto the hard shoulder of a motorway and visually check there was nothing significant that had to be dealt with immediately before pulling off at the next junction and checking all 4 tyres with a gauge to determine I hadn't got a problem at all. A thing of the past for me now.

I wasn't impressed either with the TPMS on the Yeti or the similar one on my CR-V. When it alarms you then have to stop and check each tyre unless it's obvious where the problem is and my experience is that they are often false. All in all this type of system appears not to be overly reliable. I have therefore invested in a TyrePal. This system provides a continuous real time reading of the pressure and temperature of each tyre, including the spare if required. Now when I get the inevitable alarm from the car's TPMS, i just glance at the TyrePal screen and if all is OK (which it normally is) I just keep going and reset the car's system when convenient. It also means regular checking of tyre pressures is a thing of the past. I've had the Tyrepal on 2 cars now for over 2 years and apart from a battery change on the sensors, it has worked without a problem. Just for completeness, I have no connection whatsoever with TyrePal and I assume similar products are available from other manufacturers.

No doubt caused by standard summer tyres, oh and it is not possible to manually "put a Yeti into 4WD". I suspect you mean you activated the OR button which is not for traversing roundabouts. It's all in the manual.

Agreed, my wife's Yaris does exactly that. 1st thing driving away in cold weather there is often a squeak or rattle fron the dash area. As soon as the car warms up they disappear. In the warm weather they are non-existent.

I bough a set of non-OE alloys for use with cold weather tyres for my CR-V. The centre bore was slightly larger (71.6mm) than the OE wheels (64.1mm) and they came with a set of spigot rings reducing the wheels' centre bore to the correct size. I didn't have to ask for them, they were included FOC as I had included the details of the car they were going on when I ordered the wheels. Spigot rings are a standard way of adjusting wheels with over-size centre bores to fit a car's hub.

In the 60's and 70's it wasn't unusual to see cars crabbing, i.e. being offset from the parallel, when being driven. When stopped and the distances between the centres on the 2 wheels on each side of the vehicle were measured, they often showed differences of up to 3 inches. Good evidence for "Dangerous Condition" under the Con & Use Regs.

I would have thought that in Denmark cold weather tyres are the norm for all vehicles in winter unless they keep them on all year round.

If it's Trans City you won't have any problems, I found them very good when I bought my Yeti from them. They also have a very good reputation locally.

I had one or two erroneous TPMS alarm activations on my Yeti and unfortunately I have had similar issues once or twice on both my new CR-V's, although the problem on my latest CR-V has been solved with a software update. Both systems appear pretty basic to me so I bought myself a TyrePal monitoring system. This gives a continuous readout of both the pressure and temperature of all 4 tyres on an individual basis. Therefore if the car system alarms I just check the TyrePal monitor and if OK just keep driving until convenient to re-set the car system. It also means that physical checking of tyre pressures is a thing of the past for me.

Both sets of rims are 17" with 225x65 tyres. I can't discern any significant difference in the ride but as I say, the Nokians are noticeably quieter. Just in case you hadn't noticed, this is on a CR-V. Perhaps the different suspension, running gear, etc., makes a difference to the road noise/ride from the tyres. I sold my Yeti over 2 and a half years ago now.

Just put my winter set up on. This is the 3rd winter (if you can call it that anymore) that I've had the Nokian WR SUV 3 tyres and I'd completely forgotten how much quieter they are than the Goodyear Efficient Grip summer tyres. It's very noticeable. Both sets of tyres have about 5000 miles on them. However I definitely think that, down here in the South, full cold weather tyres are overkill. When the time comes I'll definitely be going over to the all season variety.

I'd recommend Trans City in Hoe St., E17. I bought my Yeti there and they provided a very good service. Only downside is a very tight site though. For servicing, I'd also recommend Progress Skoda in Edinburgh Way, Harlow. Not too far up the M11 from East London.

I wouldn't have thought it needed Einstein to work out that the addition of a rigid steel or alloy wheel fitted with an inflated pneumatic tyre inside an existing rigid structure (irrespective of whether or not it met particular crash standards) would provide additional strength.

It's quite common. I had it on my Yeti and on my V40 before that. A stone gets jammed between the backplate and the disc. Eventually it will just wear and drop out but best to remove it as it could damage the disc if left.

Why not just park somewhere else, away from the camper and any other potential sources of polarised light and see what happens.

I'm with Sad555 on this. With this amount of (apparent) significant damage to the wheels, tyres or other underside components, it must have happened whilst the car was being driven. I therefore find it hard to understand how the driver could not have been aware at the time it happened.

I'm not sure that asking what budget one has when buying something is such an unreasonable approach. Given BMW's vary in price from around £25k to in excess of £100k, unless one indicated a particular model one was interested in then unless it is known roughly what one is intending to spend, a lot of time could be wasted showing models that were either well above or below the available funding. This is is the case when purchasing many relatively high value items, the most obvious of which is a house where it is highly unlikely one would not mention one's budget in opening a house buying conversation in an estate agents. Not being present when the discussion took place it is not possible to comment specifically but the salesman's tone and demeanour could have played a part in the showroom visit having a negative outcome. I must admit however, having bought many new cars, I always open the conversation by stating clearly what model, extras and any other relevant information on the car I'm interested in and take it from there. I have never been asked directly what my budget is in these circumstances and only get round to price once everything else has been clarified.