spectrumz80

Mystery solved, (thanks @AGFalco !) I was rear ended when stopped in traffic some months ago. I'd forgotten all about it - I was the front car in a 3 car shunt. It didn't seem bad - no visible damage on the outside and I was consumed with other more serious things that day, so I just said don't worry about it to the guy at the back. But yes - the wheel well is clearly dented. That explains it all!!! Probably will cost a fortune to fix that but maybe I can pop it back myself because there's no sharp edges in the dent it might be ok.

There's no bulbs in the switches for the window switches. Earlier Citigo models don't even have a light in the boot. Also a possible quirk of mine - the dashboard/cluster only lights up on dipped headlight setting. The sidelight setting doesn't light up the dashboard at all (since new, 2016 model) I never use sidelights anyway, always opt for dipped so doesn't bother me at all. My previous Citigo (2014) they did work on sidelights, so probably something faulty in mine.

Sorry only getting back to this thread now. Tyre on the steel wheel is 165/70R14 ("Falken" brand? ) Just too big for the spare wheel well basically.

Just to chime in on this - I had to replace bulb on mines and it was very hard to release on the drivers side. The connector snapped in the housing and I had to replace the whole lamp unit - total cost including labour was over 500 Euro. The other side - no such problems, connector was easy enough to slide off.

Just had a bit of a fiasco with my Citigo (2016 bought new) - rear drum brake can be a bit sticky for some. It's a common problem on the Citigo/Mii/Up as seen elsewhere on this forum, but normally I can just reverse a little and it pops free. Not this time! I left the car unused during some very damp weather for about 5 days. I got the driver side rear wheel free but the passenger side was utterly stuck solid. I tried rocking the car back and forth etc - no joy. What I did next was be a bit brutal and dragged it along a bit in the hope that a bump might just free it. Stupidly I went at this too much and burst the tyre. Not too bothered about that as the rear tyres are nearly due replacement anyway. However given I have premium AA membership I figured I'd just call them out - I don't have proper axel stands or anything like that. He took off the wheel and took a lump hammer to the drum - mountains of dust came out and the brake shoes released and that was fine then. He said it was unusual to see it stuck so solidly - I'd mentioned the sticking brakes to the main (Skoda) dealers at the last service but clearly they didn't do much about it. They should have cleaned up the drum and shoes. The next bit is even weirder - the spare wheel had never been used. It was factory fitted from new and I'd never had a puncture in this car. But where I expected to see a space saver was a full size spare. Initially I thought that's great, but it soon became apparent that the fullsize spare was not meant to be in there at all. The spindle that screws the wheel down was notably off-centre. Neither I nor the AA guy could get the wheel out - wedged in tight. Of course the valve for the tyre was on the bottom so therefore inaccessible too. So the only option was to use a crowbar in the holes of the wheel against the wheelwell floor to try and lift it along with generous sprays of WD40. We eventually got it free after about 20 mins and then fitted to the car. AA guy said he'd never come across this in his work before. But clearly there's been multiple failures here and this could have had me stranded needlessly unable to do do a wheel change myself. No way should a fullsize spare have been in there in the first place - clearly a factory error. Then clearly the NCT (Irish MOT) must not have checked the spare tyre pressure nor the main dealer at the last service during the summer. Anyway just thought I'd recant my little story here - do check your spare and check you can actually get it out of the boot should you ever need it!

It might not affect all cars or might be intermittent on affected VIN

Well mine was fixed today, they soldered in a replacement wire from somewhere near the gear lever I think. I got a lend of a Fabia for the day which got me to work and back. Apparently it's not considered common a problem enough to issue a full recall. Can't say I agree with their position (Skoda/VW group not the local dealership who are great. But I understand Skoda/VW Group centrally wouldn't want the inevitable bad PR from a fullscale public recall.

Just another note, it appears on mine that when I engage reverse, not only do the reverse lamps fail to come on, but it also turns off the tail lamps if headlamps are on! Brake do lights work regardless, but this is still potentially a very dangerous issue at night to have a car going pitch dark in reverse. Thankfully I live in well lit suburbs of a city.

Just had a routine service at a main Skoda dealer and was told there's a recall on Citigos for a failure of the reverse lights due to a wiring loom issue. They've booked mine in for a repair (no charge). Apparently the wiring that needs to be replaced is hard enough to do, several hours work. Mine was manufactured Oct 2015 if that is relevant to the issue. Not sure if it affects Mii and Up! models or other production dates. I thought it worthy of mention here as I saw nothing elsewhere online about this recall. It explains the funny looks I was getting when reversing out of parking spaces in shopping centres!

My main issues with the bluetooth on the garmin are that it can be flaky to connect (very occasionally) and I need to restart the device. I've also found that sometimes it seems to get "congested" in that the audio data appears to be overwhelming the bandwidth of connection or possibly the processing bluetooth data in the Garmin unit itself. Sometimes I get dropouts (effectively like 1990 Real Audio "buffering"), but more often I find it changes the pitch of the music up and down in a wave pattern which sounds terrible. I've tried different phones and operating systems and file formats etc and all have the same issue. Sometimes it plays perfectly - intermittent issue of some sort. I have a 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo jack cable which I use between phone and AUX if I want to do some serious listening on a longer journey. Certainly the starting order for bluetooth on the device is significant as @sixer says. Via igntion followed by enabling bluetooth on the phone seems more reliable for me too. Bluetooth connectivity is broken up into profiles, your phone may have some options to enable/disable some of them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles A2DP is the one related to music streaming, maybe make sure that's "on" perhaps if you can see that. That's about as much as I know! Fun useless fact: Bluetooth comes from the name of a Norse King that got some fighting tribes communicating with each other.

I'm having the same issue, car is due a service anyway, but this has been intermittent - exactly the same symptoms with heater fan and rear wiper (but not rear washer which works fine) and charging socket. Sometimes turning the car off entirely and waiting a few minutes fixes it but seems to be deteriorating. I have noticed it happens on damp/wet days more frequently, so possibly a moisture ingress into something electric somewhere? I wonder is it a problem with 2015/2016 built cars specifically. Another quirk on mine is sidelights don't light up the dashboard bulb but main or full beam does, doesn't bother me as day running lights and main/full beam are sufficient for my needs. I never use sidelights anyway. Might be related issue if anyone else has noticed.

I was looking at the seatbelt sockets and thinking of an '84 Polo mk2 I used to have. I think they may be the same seatbelt socket connectors? Volkswagen Group are masters for part sharing and platform sharing. Obviously there'll be heaps of commonality with it's brothers the Mii and Up! of course, but I wonder what else is shared. But what else have people spotted re-used from other older cars? I presume once you delve under the bonnet and behind the scenes there are all sorts of other tried and trusted parts that VW Group have been using for decades.

I'm not sure I subscribe to the opinion that just because manufacturing tolerances are better these days that running in matters less. I think it might have more of an effect if the materials used were the same as in the past. But how often do you see a modern engine with a cast iron block these days? They're almost all concerned with weight saving that they are using lighter and perhaps more brittle materials like aluminium or even magnesium etc. I would gather many a mechanic would say that doing away with careful running in periods as well as ever increasing service intervals is more down to marketing and sales pressures on brands rather than engineer's recommendations. I reckon running in matters just as much as it ever did. Remember too there's probably running in effectively for components that never existed in the past like the catalysts and turbo components and things like common rail diesel injectors or whatever else is in modern cars.