Arminator

My factory fitted alarm horn finally gave up working... Anyway I am looking for best possible and long term solution... Horn catalog ID is 1J0 951 605 and it has a built in battery which last for some time and then go off... Brand new one is way expensive and the used one I would like to avoid because you never know when it will go off... CCM give code: 01134 - Alarm Horn (H12): No Signal/Communication. Is there anyway to put generic/universal 12V alarm horn? I know it would request some rewiring but would it need some CCM recoding too? Any advice is of-course welcome.

FINALLY SOLVED! I have accidentally solved this MFA wrong fuel consumption reading... Unfortunately my instrument cluster was miss-coded! It was coded for diesel engines excluding 81kw engine which is found in my car! I have recoded properly and now it works like a charm! I used VCDS-lite (activated) and cheap ebay VAG-KKL cable (the blue one).

I have solved my problem... Unfortunately, the turbine gave up (at 254k km)... It did not produce any strange noise under load but only when engine goes from high load to idle (from high RPM suddenly to low RPM)... It was hard to notice... Anyway I got my turbo refurbished and now it runs like a champ.

Anyone to give an advice?

HI again... One more update... I did readings this morning after cold start, and then when engine was hot on straight road... Please find attached readings from block 010 and 011... Also I thought these more representative so I have chosen these part... Thanx in advance for any help given.

A little update... Today I got limp mode: 130KM/h, 4th gear at 3500rpm. After restarting the car limp mode was gone... Read codes and I got P1550... Then after that I did log for two short rides which you can find attached below. A good analysis is welcome. I really did not have time to test by swapping N75 and N18... That is what I am going to try next... LOG-01-010-011-xxx.CSV LOG-01-011-010-xxx.CSV

Hello guys Today I had a very strange issue when started my car in the morning... First I noticed a power loss - no matter how hard I throttle it did not accelerate and some strange noise was coming form the from, like something was hardly scrabbling... Then I came to the little hill near my home, car did not want to go uphill like no power to go and the engine just turned of... Tried starting it again and it just would not start... After 2 or 3 tries it started but still no power to go uphill and the engine was shaking... Then I turned it off and disconnected the N75 connector and then car started working fine and running fine... Also there was a light grey smoke when I started it with the N75 disconnected and it was very short. Now car ran fine but going to limp mode when I try to push it over 2500 rpm. My turbo has recently been cleaned by mr muscle trick and the actuator was replaces about 3-4000km ago... Also recently I am having boot issues. when I boot it I can hear a wind-like noise form the right side (my car is LHD) and I feel power loss when this noise comes. When rpm reaches above 2100-2200 this noise seem to be gone and very very hardly is noticeable. I thought this was a boost leak and the intercooler was first suspect, took of the IC and it was refurbished by professional and it does not leak now, there was one very small leak. Unfortunately this wind-like noise remained. I just hope it is not a turbo. I tested vanes and a was able to move it up and down. Also I tested the actuator (the new one, I thought it gone dead too) like shown in video below and it moves just fine (as in this video with no glitches, smooth as butter). Any advice is welcome...

Nope, because this part of the dash is made to only fit these buttons and no modding in this way seems possible without some hard rebuild of this part of the dash...

Please refer to the picture below. The clip that is breaking is it the one in black circle, or is it one of these in yellow circle? If one in yellow circle then you must give attention to the following when setting up the repairing kit (I have broken one with missing these points and spent 10EUR extra for the a repair kit): The part in red circle is used to tighten the springs (beyond the blue lines) on the green clips (those in yellow circle). How to properly tighten the springs: When the clip in the black circle is somewhere on the middle of its moving track, then the clips (those in yellow circle) must be in their housing (the plastic part on metal electric motor holder) by approximately its half (both of them). And of course I would advise you to test the window regulator setup after putting in the repair kit before you put back the door trim. Also if the reparation procedure is not done by yourself, monitor the mechanics work because they used to be very clumsy when doing such "easy" stuff...

Yup mine has same options on the mirror switch and it is normal. Anyway I find it very useful that way...

Trust me I had same issue from time to time, just exactly as you described. Anyway I would advise you to take out the lock mechanism and take it apart and check everything. I know it is real PITA and ask for a lots of patience but I am very sure that the problem lays there. Good luck once more.

Hi. Check this topic... I had similar symptoms. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/342576-indicators-not-flashing-after-locking-with-remote/ Good luck...

Hi, one more project ahead of me I`ve been googling a lot for this but could not find any guide regarding this. Is there any guide how to convert headlight switch connector to put a newer version of the switch one (as one in Golf MK4). Below you can find images of how current switch looks and the other one is I want to fit (picture for RHD car and my car is LHD, using this one because I could not find other).

SOLVED! After fixing the issue with interior lighting (you can find it here), I started fixing issues mentioned in OP. The problem is following (my English is not very best so excuse me if I miss-use some of the terms in description): The electro-motor was partially faulty. Its axle (no.1 on the pic) was spinning properly but connection (tightness) between it and the toothed wheel (no. 2 on the pic) on it was loose and it did not have enough strength to properly move the lock mechanism and to trigger the switch which informs the CCM about lock position. I fixed this by adding some glue to improve tightness between these two and now it works like a charm. BTW. My hands were too dirty to take pictures so I used one found here as the lock mechanisms are the same at this part. Hope someone will find this useful. Cheers

Done this and works perfectly. No shaking when turning off

UPDATE regarding interior lights functionality: As mentioned above I thought that I solved my troubles by fixing the hood switch. Apparently, something else was the problem because after some time the same issue appeared. Anyway I have finally found the cause of it: it is a blue connector on comfort control module (under the steering wheel) which has a loosing contact with the pins. Found this on some German forum with the same issue appearing on MKIV. Try shaking/moving it when connected to CCM with lights on to assure that this is the issue. I fixed it by twisting the pins (clockwise/counterclockwise - it does not meter which way) on CCM to improve contact. I have tested it and it works fine since then. Hope you will find it useful. Cheers

Probably auxiliary belt not tightened properly/enough. Did you try refitting it? Or may be try the other one from other manufacturer? I am experiencing similar issue but I am too lazy to replace it Cheers

Hi. I On ebay Ihave spotted a speedometer from Octavia 1U 2004 plate. This one has a central multi function display as the one seen in Golf. I own Octavia 1U prefacelift. Is there any way to retrofit this one, are the connector the same? Immo is disabled so coding won`t be needed I supose? Is there a way to put original milage to the new speedo?

I had same issue. I fixed it by putting the switch on the hood lock-mechanisim to "closed" position and locking it in that position... Now the hood "seems" to be closed hole time (even if I open it) but I don`t have any issues with interior lights. Cheers

As promised to inform you about my DIY job, I replaced bulbs in switches on drivers door panel, you can also use SMD 3528 size as mentioned in my previous post as they fit here perfectly too...

HI I have recently done it on my Octy... For bulbs in switches on the passenger doors you will have to use a SMD 3528 size. They are soldered to the switchpanel and you will have to use solder iron to remove old one and refit a new one. It is not so hard. You can by these diode separately but there is a cheaper way. Check this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-3528-68-SMD-LED-6500K-310-Lumen-White-Fog-Light-Bulb-Headlight-Car-DC-12V-/191411934622?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2c910a559e&vxp=mtr This is a H4 bulb with small 3528 SMD. just unsolder these and resolder them to the switch panel. Also you can get LED tape (easier to unsolder the diodes) and do the same procedure, the most important is to use these 3528 SMD LED diodes because of the size (these fit perfectly and are the same size of factory diodes!). Also you can use these to change backlight color of speedo, climatronic and rear mirrors switch (BTW all of these is a real PITA and requires a lot of patience) Regarding switches for fuel tank, rear windshield defroster etc, bulbs in these are very different. Bulbs which come with switches are classic leds with round shaped head. To fit SMD LED (t5 size) you will have to modify the housing by removing same parts of plastic so you could fit SMD diode together with its own palstic housing. Regarding switches on the divers door panel, here, the bulbs used are the same one used for switches for fuel tank, rear windshield defroster etc. In following days I am planning to swap bulbs in it on my Octy and I will be happy to share the info. Hope this will be useful. Best regards,

Hi. I have pre-facelift model (2000) SLX and I would like to put a bumper form facelift model (the old one is broken so I need to change it anyway). Would it fit properly and is it easy to swap? I know I will have to buy new headlights also, are they hard to fit or it is just a straight swap? Will I also have to change front panel or I could keep using the current one? Also I know the front grill will have to be replaced. I would like to know if it is worth upgrading. Cheers.

Thanx for guides. I will look into it. Cheers

No ideas at all? :(

I have been dealing with this issue since I got my Octy. Anyway, I`ll describe what is happening in more detail. When I lock the car using remote indicators do not flash door locke signal. If I keep repeating locking command from the remote, after two, (usually) three or even four (this one very rarely) presses on the remote keyfob, and every time I can hear lock mechanism relocking with each press. I replaced all four microswitches in door locks but this issue still exists. Also I might be near the cause... When I press lock key on my remote first time, I can hear all doors locking. When I press lock key on remote again (second time) only left rear door (my car is LHD) lock is relocking. And after third press I hear all lock relocking and then idicators usually flash for door locked signal. Also one more interesting thing is hapenning. When I open drivers door and get out of the car, and press central locking button on the door trim and then close the drivers door and then press lock button on my key fob indicators flash after first press on remote. But when I unlock using remote and then lock again using remote, indicators do not flash and I have to repeat aforementioned procedure if I want to see indicators flashing. Also my car is packed with factory alarm system if that helps anyway.