Wheelie1

I feel a little bit stupid just now, but, looking into the wheel-arch which way do I turn the tie rod knuckle to undo from the steering rack, clockwise or anti? I'm trying anti-clockwise like a normal nut, but it feels like I could be tightening further. I'm not using the best of tools (molegrips), but they're just biting into the joint. I've got a 32mm crow-foot spanner on order, just need to know if it unscrews anti-clockwise, as normal.

Many thanks for that info Pete, and the time you put in finding it. I've actually got EKTA site bookmarked BUT most of the time I can't get my head around it lol. Haven't dismantled pedal yet (crap weather), but car has not been run for around 9 months up until trip to garage re crank sensor. Lifting pedal back up dropped the revs promptly, so I wondered if it was sticking through lack of use. Last 2 days just sat in the car and constantly up-down on pedal, it does seem as though it's done the trick, tickover now a steady 900, and engine braking as it should. So thanks again, until the next crisis!

Hi Pentium, Thanks for the pictorial, will be handy. The vag 'Q' numbers are all the same, but, the letter at the end are different?? So it's got to come out!

Can you not clean it any. I've looked on fleabay & there is about 6 different codes. OK, so you suggest I just unscrew & look at label. Will do that tomorrow thanks.

Hi again, one problem after another. To be honest, the Fabia has not been out for more than half a dozen times in the last 2 years. Recently had probs with engine, but now fixed.(see last post re crankshaft sensor). My problem now is, when I start the car, the revs settle at approx 1500rpm, if I toe-lift the pedal the revs drop to 900rpm. This is not much of a problem, but, it is catching me out when driving ie. when slow driving at junctions.....sometimes it doesn't slow down. What I can gather from the net, is, it is a drive-by-wire/potensiometer thingy ma jig. I'm thinking (fingers crossed) that due to lack of use, it maybe has gone stiff. My question is.. how do I remove & clean (if possible) my accelerator pedal. '56 1.9tdi 130pd. Thanks in advance.

Come off it Lofty!! Course I can change an oil filter Lol, but cooler assembly is over my head. Anyway, here is the finale. Bought a Lucas Cav sensor, took it to my local mechanic (with the car), he then rang me 1 hour later saying the sensor does not fit. Recommended he order original part, to which I agreed. 4 hours later, rang again with the news, new part also does not fit. The Lucas sensor that I bought & the sensor that the mechanic bought were both too large in diameter. My mechanic said he was stumped & had no idea why. Next day mechanic rang and said, cars ready. Upon picking car up he explained he had talked to Skoda & it transpired that the original factory sensor is inserted in a sleeve. When he removed the sleeve/insert, the sensor slid straight in. So, hoping the last paragraph may help someone who finds there new sensor will not fit. Thanks to those who replied with help & suggestions.

Thanks for the suggestions, i'll keep them in mind as may have to try. Just at the moment, i'm looking on fleabay, see if I can get a set of 1/4 drive shallow sockets, if I can, maybe i'll just get enough room for a wrench. Fingers crossed because i'd hate to have to pay the garage, when it's just for the sake of a stupidly positioned bolt!

Hi Pete, Spot on! Just been & tried 9mm 12 point snug fit. Many thanks. Trouble now is socket i've got is 3/8 drive & though I can slip it on, i've only got a max of 1/2" clearance to get a wrench into socket, as the oil-cooler is in the way. Unless I can fathom a way to turn the socket, it looks like a garage job as I don't feel confident enough to start dismantling oil cooler. Accessing from under the car by the way, as theres a little more room.

Hello, Could anyone tell me what size and type is the fixing bolt for the crankshaft sensor on my '56 reg Fabia 1.9tdi vrs please? A pig to get to, but I can just about get to it without removing anything else. It looks like it is approx 10mm but it has splines around the edges & I don't want to risk rounding it off by using the wrong socket. Many Thanks.

Superb pictorial! Had to do this exact same job earlier this year. Stripped my threads due to stupidly getting mixed up with 'lefty-loosey & righty-tighty' from behind. Sure your post will help others, oh! and welcome to Briskoda.

Damen, check your messages mate.

That's fine mate! I've found a full kit for you, drilled & tapped pin + screw, pressure spring + bushing if you need. I'll pm you my number tonight.

Drilled & tapped Mate! but I do have a spare already drilled & tapped pin. You're very welcome to it free gratis. It's easy to do yourself if you prefer, but a pillar-drill is a must, to get the hole true. Give me a shout if you want to collect.

Hi Damen, Sorry I never completed instructions on how to do this, but at the time I got rather ill. Is it the bush that's worn, or the spring that's broken? Either way, it's quite an easy fix. I notice you're not far from me ( i'm in Ryhill/Havercroft). I could quite easily show you how to do it, also I could maybe find a new bushing & spring to help you out. I'm not sure you can pm me or not but if not, you can reply to this post. Malc.

Well, the one I bought had, hence why I think there was no actual change-over. Look on fleabay, there's loads of vag shifters, from 2001 through to 2007, some has screws, some has rivetts, there's no pattern! One thing is sure though, there's no such thing as an 'unserviceable' bearing-pin. Not anymore Edited....

Just an aside Lee, it seems there isn't a particular date of change re rivett v screw, as my donor shifter box is from a 2001 1.4 fabia & mine is 2006! Maybe they used whatever was on hand at the time of manufactor. Anyway.... the pins are both exactly the same. After some research, although the bearing pin is not available, you can still order the relevant long full length plastic bushing from Czech/Latvia. It doesn't make sense really, why sell a bush for a pin that's supposed to be 'non-seviceable', as you say, madness....! I'm just making another little mod before putting the console & bits back in & then all done. Will explain how I did it shortly.

Not sure whether it helps, but the front to back does not involve any movement in the bearing pin, but the side to side does! Just pull the leather gearstick gaiter up from console & all will be visible. Eyeball/finger touch the pivot arm/bell crank where its rivetted on to the bearing pin, whilst moving the gearstick side to side. Only thing I can think of, is, maybe the bearing-pin bushing has broken up inside causing stiffness, or it could just need some suitable grease on the ball & socket. My original post was really to find a way with replacing a broken pressure spring on the 'rivetted shifter', that caused my gearstick to flop around. Sorry can't be of more help.

Well....today I completed my gearshifter repair, and without shelling out mega-bucks for the 'super-pin'! Total cost was around £24. Been for a 30 min test drive & fingers crossed I think it's been successful. Gear changes nice & tight & no sloppiness to speak of. Been a bit of trial & error, but eventually it worked just fine. The only thing now , is to see if it lasts, but I think it will. As soon as I get some time, i'll put up a thread on how to repair the broken pressure spring on the 'supposedly' unserviceable rivetted bearing pin shifter box.

Will do!

Cheers for the link Lee! I'd already found it, though in retrospect, I think i've jumped the gun & ordered bearing pin & both end bushes. I re-watched the vids of the 'super-pin' and noticed after he'd drilled out the bell crank rivet, the original pin he removed was same circumferance from end to end, just like a rod, as is the 'super' replacement pin. This is giving me the impression that the inner bore of the casting would also be smooth, i.e. not stepped if you get what I mean. The bearing pin on the 7zap site looks stepped. Anyway, after long deliberation, I am leaning toward just drilling out the flat rivet (as in the super-pin vid) & removing the pin then drilling a pilot hole & tapping a thread to match the hex bolt i've ordered to refix the bell crank. All i've got to do then is try to find someone who can supply/make end bushings (a tall order I know). Top & bottom is..... the rivetted set up (unserviceable) v torx screw set up (serviceable), the bearing pin is different also assuming bushes too. Super pin looks like a fix to my problem, but not at that bl**dy price.

Just to add.... i've just finished taking the centre console out from my Son's vRS (2004). That shifter has the torx screw + circlip thing at other side, so design was changed somewhere between 2004 and 2006. Looking at the cast pin housings they appear identical apart from rivet v torx fixing. Strangely, there is a small cloth Skoda label inside the box of both cars both with the respecive manufactor year, most importantly?? they have exactly the same part # 6YO 711 113 P 2L3. Bottom of my label also states >perfor, 6G RS<, bottom of Son's label states >perfor, 4G RS< All this leads me to believe there is no difference in the shifter boxes apart from the bell crank method of fixing. Can anyone let me know the part nos. for the pin & bushes.

Hi Lee, Many thanks for your research & time. This was NOT what I wanted to hear lol. It's an interesting read on the golf forum though. The pic posted is exactly the same as mine, & yes, you are correct, rivetted! I'm thinking, maybe I will go for a used box off fleabay (several on offer) with the screw-on link & then grind/drill out mine & simply swap out. Will probably need a suitable sized washer under the torx screw though. I can't imagine vag would have altered the physical size of the pin (fingers crossed). I will also buy new pin bushings when I find out the part no's. All other bushings seem ok, first gear-getter bush is very tight. What a carry-on just to change a broken spring! Anyhow, will keep you updated.

Hi, My new (to me) Fabia has been very badly neglected in it's previous ownership. One of the issues is the amount of side to side play on the gear lever, it's driving me mad. I searched on here & found lots of threads regarding similar, so I thought i'd take the center console out & have a look. The first thing I noticed was that the pressure spring ( I think that's what it's called) had broken. Not too big a problem I thought, into the garage for my T20 bit & ratchet to take the 'L' shaped lever off, when hard as I looked, there was nowhere or nothing to unscrew! Now, all the images & vids show this T20 screw being taken out.....well, my shifter linkage does not have one. On passenger side it's a flush round end, & on drivers side it's similar but thicker, thick enough to get mole grips on. It just twists round but I can't get the pin/bolt out. Surely VAG didn't make this intentionally tamper proof, or is there something I don't know. P.S. Thanks to members who helped me sort out the BLT stutter it's a lot better. Cheers.

Right then! Think you've all provided me with enough info to tackle the job. 2 additional gaskets to go with the restrictor plate, one either side. Can't remember whether i'm 74, or 75 next, so you can maybe understand why i'm getting a little long in the tooth when it comes to getting out the spanners. I do still imbibe in the drink of an evening though (see my early posts lol). So sometimes my posts may seem a little bit muddled. If I can sort out this problem, the car will be a dream to drive. Will keep you updated when done. Thanks all.

Hi sep, thanks for taking time to reply. After an hour searching, that is exactly what i've done. The type with slotted holes so you only need to slacken bolts & just slide it in. Would it be prudent to purchase new gasket, or just slip the plate in as is.