flybynite

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

ErWin for HOW ETKA for WHAT

I get around 30-32 round town with the 1.8tsi but it can nudge 40mpg on a motorway run sticking to legal speeds which I don't think is bad for a petrol 4x4 estate. The DSG does it no favours as I am sure the constant up and down the box does not help. It seems to do better when I stick the box in manual and change myself. Ironically I can get better mpg much easier with my VW, same running gear and nearly twice the power. it changes gear less and does more on the torque.

That is why I say find a Hunter Rig with someone who knows how to operate it

In the days of your "Old School" Dunlop tracking gauges maybe not, but on modern cars a slight error can make a big difference to vibration. The ever bigger wheels and thinner side walls, harder suspension and lighter, stiffer bodyshells has taken much of the compliance and dampening out of the system. Mis alignment causes wear and the wear causes vibration. It can also vibrate if it causes the tyre to scrub Mine was not set accurately from the factory. It was not out by much but that small adjustment was all it took to make the difference. In my experience it is only the Hunter rigs that can set up the cars with the required accuracy consistently day in day out. On some cars different tyre manufacturers need a change in geometry to avoid sawtoothing and vibration. A change in make of tyre can sometimes work but that was not the case with the OP. Glad it seems to be better hopefully it was the problem and stays like that, but the vRS suspension is known to be quite hard. It is why I have standard suspension 🙂

One of the first things I would be doing is getting a four wheel alignment done on a Hunter rig at a place that knows how to use it properly. The feathering issue makes me think the geometry is out somewhere

For me ATE road pads and ATE or Brembo disks As above OE pads were Jurid and caliper was TRW, which is why fitment is printed on the pad. Earlier VWs with the same brakes had ATE calipers with a different fitment so probably helps save some idiot trying to hammer the wrong pads in.

Most, if not all, fitting places use low profile stick on weights anyway (about 3.8 mm) and clearance is fine. (as the Kodiak above) Difficult to judge the ride as most of the difference is down to the difference between the TS860 winters and the PS4 summers but there is a noticeable difference between them in ride and steering feel. I am happier when the summers go on though.

AFAIK they used the same TRW caliper on all the 340mm cars up until the MK4 in 2021 part number 5G0615123B. There are offset changes with the FL but that should not affect the radial clearance

Just to let you know standard VW or Skoda MQB 17" wheels fit over the VRS 340mm brakes just fine. I have used Skoda Teron alloys for my winter tyres now for 5 years over the 340mm (f) 310mm (r) with no issues, in fact in some markets the VRS came with 17" wheels as standard

Yes it will help the ride but you could also do a bit of research on tyres as some are good at taking the edge off the harshness of the suspension. I have PS4Ss on another car known for hard suspension and it made a big difference to the Pirellis that came off.

You won't gain any height with coilovers as they usually have a range of something like 20-40mm drop. I.E minimum 20mm drop if fitted. Standard Octy has pretty high ride height and I would be surprised if you have an issue. I have a standard height machine for that reason and I have not found I needed more. VRS or lowered car might have caused me issue but standard car has been fine. When new S/SE and SEL could be ordered with the "Rough road package" which raised the car by 15mm (same as the Scout) and added plastic underfloor protection. Wouldn't be too difficult or costly to get the springs for the RR package, and once up on a ramp the protection would not be hard to fit either. That would be the correct way to do it. Eibach also do a "Blue Light Kit" for service vehicles, but have doubts of it's general availability. Guess it is not far from the RR package

EA888 gen3 is a very different engine to the gen 2 fitted to the Mk2. AFAIK the Gen3 was not fitted to pre-MQB cars as it was not produced until 2013 I have had the gen3 180ps 1.8 TSI in mine for 5 years and it has not missed a beat, even driving the 4x4. I won't lie I'm glad mine has the DQ250 as I think the 1.8 is on the limit of what the DQ200 will handle but at least it will have the multilink rear suspension