VrsMad

Could you check if there are any updates available for my device (seat leon my2017)? Thanks so much for your help on this thread 😇

How much do you want for the tailgate?

Do you still have the tailgate and rear bumper?

I don't have the tool, I was looking to make something (e.g. from an exhaust clamp) like the Haynes manual suggests but I'll probably by another clip just in case that doesn't work & it needs to be drilled/cut out! Have you done it, if so how did you manage it?

Cheers, will have to give this ago, Doesn't seem easy to get to the bolts with the expansion tank/pipes still in place but if could be worth doing.

Yep, they are OK, I have changed the servo one once. A split vac pipe is unlikely to cause drag it is more likely to cause the opposite as far as I know, which isn't very much! Cheers for the help though

Yep, done that, they release. It's a bit of a strange one. Research on it seems that it isn't that uncommon for the pushrod in the servo to detach from one of the four little clips which locate it in the servo. This allows it to move about and sit forward a millimeter or two. This applies the brakes slightly and covered the pilot holes in the cylinder preventing the heated, expanding fluid returning to the reservoir as the brakes overheat aggravating the problem. Can't be 100% sure its this, it could be the master cyl, but there don't seem to be many reports of these causing this problem where as there are for the servo.

I'm not 100% sure that it is the servo but everything is pointing that way, changing the rear calliper / hose with new parts has not made a difference. Neither has changing the front with a used calliper from a donor car that was working OK. I wish it was something simple, but taking everything into account including posts on Fabia/Polo/Ibiza forums (inc. this one) it does seem to point to the servo. It's a fairly expensive part from Skoda and it involves removing the engine mounts/lowering the engine, not the best job al in all!

The VRS has developed the dreaded N/S/F / O/S/R brake drag problem which after a bit of fuss has been trial and error identified as a brake servo fault. Skoda / TPS want £200 for a new servo (part only). Is anyone aware of any after market / cheaper solution? I don't want to fit a used part on the braking system

Cheers, let me know when you're ready to proceed.

I'll take it if its OK after you've checked it over and the bolt on is OK for ASZ. I have the money ready, cheers

Is it the correct EGR fitting for an ASZ engine code?

Could do with scanning all modules with VAG-COM / VCDS rather than just an engine fault code scanner. Could be worth searching for the brake pedal switch fault on briskoda if there is no fault code on an engine scan.

You should be able to tuck the wiring below the radio (behind the little cubby hole). It is a bit tricky and does involve a bit of trial and error to get it to tuck behind there nicely but you'll get it in the end.

What fault code(s) is it showing when scanned?

That seems a bit steep to say the least, surely it should take no more than 30 min. To get a spare I bought a second hand fob from eBay for about £10, a new transponder cost about £5, key cutting about £5 and the dealer supplied the code for about £10. I coded them to my car with vag-com in about 10 minutes. Do Skoda dealers still provide transponder codes? I got mine from a dealer but it was about 4 years ago, if not more.

Couldn't agree more. I bought two for less than £80 after looking into referbing mine and deciding it wasn't worth my time. I also now have two redundant rears that I don't know what to do with!

Just changed my rear callipers for new ones. Handbrake lever on both had become ceased again, so for less than £80 for two reconditioned ones and a touch of green hammerite, I didn't think it was worth messing with again. Only a 45 min job to change two and works like new now.

Yes, it fills the gap above the head unit.

I've just fitted the previous model (DEH-4400BT nearly the same) to my Fabia Don't buy all this, you only need an aerial amp and OEM trim part to fit. As stated above, it comes with a wiring harness that has bullet clips allowing the switched and constant feeds to be easily changed without other wiring adapters. The headunit it is quite simple to fit. An Amplified Aerial Adapter like this on, is required: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400416317299?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 you can connect it to the blue & white wire on the radio side of the harness. If you don't use get one, the reception will be poor on AM and on FM in rural areas. Also as said above, regarding the trim you need OEM part number 6Y0857231B41 from a dealer / TPS. I paid £6. Alternatively copy the part number into eBay & OEM trims can be bought for £7.50. Much better than any aftermarket trim pieces I have seen The bluetooth microphone is best placed on the drivers A-pillar not the sun visor as the instructions suggest. Don't try and hide the microphone behind any trim (like in the interior light) as the mic needs to be pointed at your mouth. Enjoy your new headunit, mine's a great improvement over the symphony one!

You really need to do a full diagnostic of any brake issues and if you’re not confident leave it to a suitably qualified person. I assume that you are talking about a standard Fabia VRS Lucas 288mm front set-up? If it was me looking at it, I would: 1 Remove the wheel, calliper from the carrier then remove the pads. Noting if the calliper is easily removed or very tight to the pistons (indicating a dragging or ceased piston) and inspecting the brake piston / gaiter for corrosion / damage etc. Inspect the disc / pads etc for wear / damage/ corrosion. 2 Check that the carrier is firmly bolted to the hub and there is not any play. If not, tighten / replace where necessary. 3 Check that that both slide pins move in and out of the carrier freely. They should move in and out with little resistance and they should be straight. The top slide pin might be a touch harder to move in and out as it has a rubber bush on the end and the bottom one is designed to move more easily. If they don’t move in and out, un-seize, clean / replace where necessary. Grease with silicone grease (don’t use any grease which contain mineral oil), refit and replace boots where necessary. 4 Due to the problems you have, it might be an idea to refit the calliper to the carrier without pads and to check that it tightens to the pins and moves in / out freely without any play in any other direction. If there is play you will need to trouble shoot the cause. 5 Clean up the pads and anti-rattle clips where necessary and remove the calliper and refit the pads and calliper. Then refit the wheel. 6 While the car is on the axle stand, ensure the car is out of gear, spin the wheel and get someone to operate the brake peddle. Ensure that the brake stops the wheel and fully releases . If you don’t find the problem using the above process, you could change the pads / clips and slide pins. I would agree with Holmesie, its probably not to best idea to rethread brake parts, just replace where required. It would also be worth checking the otherside, these things tend to happen in pairs. It’s just as likely to be something other than a brake issue, have you checked your console bushes, anti roll bar bushes or suspension more generally?

pm'd

PM'ed

Can't believe that this thread is still going! Don't you have anything better to do [like discussing which minor tweak will give you 0.001 bhp more!] than arguing over the claims of the Audi marketing department! I think there is an argument over what is a sports car. Personal I would go with the definition of a car that is designed from the outset to put a sports aesthetic and performance above out and out practicality. Hence many two seater cars such as the Lotus Elise or even the MGF being described as sports cars but even cars like the 350Z and RX8 slip in to the definition. Therefore Fabia VRS is not a sports car. The Fabia was not originally designed to be "sporty" or "hot" but with the VRS they "dressed [the Fabia] in the tinsel of performance" and didn't even go overboard with that! As much as I like/dislike mine it is debatable whether it is even a hot hatch. You seem to need 200bhp to get into McDonalds car park at night these days, so it's probably just a warm hatch, sad to many of you but probably true:(. Are the Audi TT or BMW 1 Series Coupe sports cars? I think that's a debatable point but I think the TT is slightly closer to my definition than the Beemer even though several like for like versions of the Beamer would have a better performance or be sportier. The 1 Series Coupe is just a Coupe version of the hatch and in that conversion it does not gain much sportness or loose much practicality, therefore it is small coupe not a sports car. Is the TT a coupe or a sports car? The MK1 TT was sporty looking but the performance was not much up on the equivalent Golf but it did sacrifice practicality (has anyone tried to sit in the back seats). The MK2 attributes are similar but it does perform that little bit better than the equivalent Golf in my experience. It certainly isn't as hot hatch as mentioned (above) but I think it could be both a sports car and a coupe . Either way the TT and BMW are fine cars and both far superior to the Fabia but then they should be as they cost twice as much. If I had a choice out of the three mentioned above, I'd probably choose the Beemer because despite not being a "sports car" according to my definition it probably does have a sportier drive and is also fairly practical. The Audi's looks are much better IMHO and the Audi interiors are sooooo nice (don't think that Decron sensed the irnony in my above posts!). That’s my two pennies worth! Troll all you want Mr Wobblytickle, I can’t see you.

Thanks for the tip, will do