humsk
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Posts posted by humsk
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Hi Folks,
My 2005 Octy II 4x4 is getting a little long in the tooth - over 8 years old and with 127k miles on the clock, a few things need changing soon - brake discs, exhaust, battery, etc. so I'm thinking of swapping to a Yeti 4x4 Elegance.
Just wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for? I've heard of rust problems due to poor galvanising on 2010 cars but I'm looking for something less than 2 years old.
I fancy the 170PS TDI engine over the 140PS - is this a sensible choice especially considering I do tow now and then? The stated fuel consumptions between the two engines aren't too different but brochure figures aren't "real world".
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Andrew
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I bought a copy of ElsaWin of ebay - £4 covers all models (except Citigo). There's sufficient detail for most DIY jobs.
Andrew
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What about contrasting red cam and crank pulleys plus red silcone hoses?
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Interesting - when I got mine (3+ years ago) the dealer asked if I had a sunroof. I don't but assumed it was that the sunroof open/close switch was in the same area.
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Thanks Ryan,
I've got a Stream radio - the pics for the facia look like it should be ok but I may try my local Car Audio Centre store to see if I can "try before I buy".
Cheers,
Andrew
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I've just brought a new HU and about to order the Connects2 Double DIN Facia Plate Kit (CT23SK01A).
A couple of questions please:
1 - As anyone had problems installing it?
2 - Does the plastic surround match the rest of the car's facia? (photos would be great)
Thanks,
Andrew
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Yep, it's a five minute job. Unclip the existing panel, swap over the alarm module and clip in place.
Got mine from my main dealer - I surprised how cheap it was but that was a few years ago.
A word of warning - it's not compatible with sunroofs though.
Cheers,
Andrew
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I too have recently had a scan and have fault codes for 3 glow plugs (cylinders 1, 3 & 4). Normally it starts ok but does struggle when it's particularly cold. I've done 107k miles so it's probably time for swapping all four for good measure.
Depending on the type, glow plugs are fragile so if the garage were heavy handed when removing and handling the head, they may have damaged them.
A quick check is to measure the resistance of the glow plug element with a multi-meter between the end contact and the plug housing. Should be less than 1 ohm (need to ensure good connections and subtract the meter's zero offset).
Cheers,
Andrew
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My near side cover dropped down when the alloy top plate corroded. To keep it in position, I used hot melt glue - worked for about a year. Had to repeat this for the MOT this year and also keep the crap of the shocker shaft. Noticed the bump stop looked like it had seen better days so may need new rear shocks soon. That said they are over 7 years old and have done 107k miles.
Reckon taping it up with gaffer/duck tape will keep it in place. MOT only requires them not to be leaking and working properly.
Cheers,
Andrew
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I'm running Continental Wintercontact TS830P 195/65R15 on steels with pukka Skoda trims - looks low rent but who cares in this weather. Compared with my summer 205/55R16's, they roll and squirm about more but surprisingly get better mpg (narrower tread).
Oponeo.co.uk are doing them for £58 a corner (free delivery) or for £51 you could go for the TS850P.
Got mine last year and they were delivered in less than a week straight from Conti in Germany - £5 a wheel for fitting and balancing at a local back street garage and I was sorted.
From experience, unless you are in deep snow, the winter tyres should keep you moving without the need for chains.
Cheers,
Andrew
PS, I use the same bolts for both my alloys and the steels.
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I'm over in Sweden winter testing a bargain basement VW Up! (Citigo's more expensive brother) so no EPS or traction control, just ABS. It's a cracking little performer on snow and ice with big car stability thanks to having a wheel at each corner. It steers nicely on the throttle, that said I've managed to spin it on polished ice at over 40 mph
The only problems we'd had is starting it at minus 31 degrees - needed a couple of jump starts, the tailgate lock button freezes so you can't open it and the rear screen demister can't cope at these temperatures.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Thanks Steve - sorry been offline for a while.
Got an aerial booster I used in my old car when I replaced the HU so hopefully that will work - just need to buy a Connect2 fascia surround/fixing kit.
Found out at the weekend that a mate gets discount at halfords so he's going to find out the price
Cheers,
Andrew
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Binzie, how are you getting on with your new toy?
I was looking at the same HU for my Octy and will also be running it into Infinity components.
Car Audio & Security are doing it for £270 + delivery
Cheers,
Andrew
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If you go for removing the sump guard, stick a trolley jack under the centre of it to support the weight when unbolting it. If you drive off road it's worth removing so you can empty the mud and grit out - it get's in through the vents in the guard.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Are these the right green clips? Would like to have everything ready before starting. Just in case...
Yep, looking at the photo, those are the ones. If you can get the door warm - either working inside a heated garage or leaving the car in the sun, there's less chance the clips will break.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Given that the inner panel (made of metal) is riveted in and they need to be drilled out to remove the panel, what do you use to put it back?
ETKA says to use 'tear rivets' but I have no idea what these are.
Anyone have any idea or suggestions from experience?
For 'tear rivets' read blind or "pop" rivets. I didn't remove the inner panels after all as I couldn't release the window glass clamps from the runners. Instead I just added a few layers of sound deadening mat to the panel. You can get the rivets from your Skoda dealer - I didn't find an alternative source.
Cheers,
Andrew
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£254 to replace a cv boot!!! thats madness! it shouldnt take more than a hour to replace & the part shouldnt be more than £30 even at a dealer. Are you sure that price wasnt for the cv joint to be replaced?
I'd asked for a boot replacement - shall we say I was gob smacked. The guy said we do use genuine Skoda parts – must be gold plated ones! :p
Got the job done today for just short of £100 and they washed and vacuumed the car – result. :yes: They did say they had to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox before freeing it from the hub as it had seized. Now thinking it was worth paying for someone else to do the job.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Thanks guys for your advice – it does sound a relatively easy if messy job. Bearing in mind the weather forecast this weekend (would be working outside) and the need to keep the car mobile, this time I’m going to opt for the easier if more expensive option and get an independent garage to do the job.
Phoned three independents for quotes which from ranged from £102 to £110 whereas the main dealer wanted £254
Did look at the DIY option – the boot was £11.40 from Europarts and I’d probably need a boot installation cone and the hose clip crimp pliers to do the job properly which come to another £33. There’s a kit available that consists of a split boot that is glued together for around £15.
Cheers,
Andrew
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After 78000 miles, the front NS drive shaft outer CV joint gaiter has split next to the clip at the drive shaft end – a common problem from what I can gather. I’m now wondering whether to have a go at replacing it myself or leave it to a garage, especially as I’ll have to do the job outside. :S
Does anyone know how much the dealers charge for the job or what parts are needed if I have a go myself? I assume I’ll need a new driveshaft / hub bolt? What’s the tightening torque for this bolt?
Cheers,
Andrew
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I had one of my head lights mist up after going a little too fast through a ford
Remove the headlight from the car (which is easy - see the owners manual) and found one of the little rubber breather tubes was upside down so had let water into the unit. I removed all of the bulbs and left the light overnight in the airing cupboard (or somewhere warm if you don't have one). The following morning it was dry and it's never misted up since - may be worth a try. -
P20,
What size wheels have you got on your 4x4? A more cost effective solution maybe a set of second hand 15" steel wheels off ebay with narrower and cheaper 195/65 R15 rubber. As long as you've somewhere to store them it's easy to swap over when the weather gets bad.
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Niall,
If you want to add the part number for 15" steelies which fit Octy II's with smaller disc brakes i.e. not vRS as you say, it's 1K0 601 027C. They are 6J x 15 ET47 and take 195/65R15 tyres.
lard-ajc,
Yes, winter treads do make a difference but it depends on where you live and the roads you drive on.
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If you want 6J x 15 steel wheels for an Octy 2, the part number is 1K0 601 027C
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I've got a set of 15" steelies for my 55 plate 1.9TDI 4x4 combi - got them off ebay a couple of years ago. The wheels for the Mark 2 (or A5) Octy are different to the mk1 (or A4) Octy - different PCD size. The Mk V Golf wheels should be the same.
My steelies are 6J x 15 ET47 marked with part number 1K0 601 027C
I run a set of 195/65 R 15 winter tyres on them - makes a significant difference over normal rubber on snow and ice.
Buying a Yeti 4x4 - anything to look out for?
in Skoda Yeti
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Thanks guys for your comments - fuel consumption doesn't sound too bad.
I fitted front mud flaps to my Octy which gives some protection to the sills and the rear arch front edges have factory fitted clear plastic film which has helped prevent stone chip damage. If there's no protection on the arches of my new car, I'll cover them with helli tape and fit mud flaps.
A quick question - how easy is it to remove the rear seats?
Cheers,
Andrew