Rajakay
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Posts posted by Rajakay
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Had the AA out today when the problem started. As soon as the AA driver got to me he walked over and asked if it smoked when I revved which I replied yes. He gave it a Rev and no blue smoke and idle went to normal level. Luckily enough he had seen the high idle before he revved and also heard the unusual engine noise. No faults came up on his obd reader. Checked oil level and said it is high. Drained oil to correct level. There had been a 1 extra litre in engine. He advised me that this could have been the most likely cause and if it started to play up again it could well be a faulty injector.
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Can an air leak cause rough idle and blue smoke?
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No it's clearly visible coming from the left side where the exhaust is. Had the return pipes changed yesterday and no more oil leak but the problems come back this morning clouds of blue smoke from exhaust.
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Hi guys I have a cr170 on a 58 plate. Recently my car every now and then will start to idle at 900 rpm and when I set off kicks out blue smoke from exhaust. Some times I see smoke coming from the bonnet. Inspected it and it smelt like oil burning coming from underneath the turbo area. Took it to my local and he advised me that it was the return pipe from the turbo to the sump that had a small oil leak. 6 months ago I had a recon turbo fitted and my oil pump and bottom half of my engine done as my oil pump packed in and caused my turbo to blow and damaged the engine. My question is if there is an oil leak from the return pipe how is it that my exhaust would blow blue smoke. Sometimes I'll drive it with the problem and then suddenly when I stop at some lights the revs would go back to normal and the problem would be gone no smoke what so ever. It is now a daily problem. Will start up fine and an hour or 2 later would start to play up and then 10 mins later it's fine again. Any advise is welcome guys.
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This is a graphic catalog for Skoda so you can find what ever part you need http://vagfans.info/EN/skoda/CZ/SUP/Superb/2010/632
Home directory is http://vagfans.info/ for whole VAG group.
Good luck!
Thank you very much. This has solved all my problems.
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Skoda being awkward with giving out part numbers. But managed to get them both. But they have gave me part number for a throttle body which I didn't want. I need part number for intake manifold flap motor that goes onto side of inlet manifold not front. Anyone know which part I'm talking about?
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Hi my cars a cr170 on a 2009 I'm looking for part numbers for a inlet manifold flap motor and a secondary water pump, hope someone can help.
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Worth a read here as its a "boost control sensor"
There are lots of causes from a vacuum pipe/poor connection/sticking vanes, the list goes on but it is your turbo :(
Not sure what warranty is on the reconditioned turbo but you need to go back as it is directly connected to the fault code you posted?
Picking car up today and taking it straight back to guy who's done the turbo recon as he gave me 6 months warranty and the cars literally had the turbo in a week.
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Had turbo reconditioned around a week ago and now have this code come up, any ideas?
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Had turbo reconditioned around a week ago and now have this code come up, any ideas?
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Cranks OK by sounds of it but oil pump needs replacing and work on bearings. I think the previous owner was the one who used sealant on the oil pump but not a 100% sure as other garage said they didn't use sealant. Another £1300 though. In total it's cost me £2200.Ouch. Is the crank OK or does it need a regrind? If its just bearings and youve had the turbo replaced you hopefully should be out of the woods then.
Was the sealant applied by previous garage when they replaced the oil pump shaft?
Good luck...
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I had the exact same problem. Changed all 4 tyres and had 4 wheel alignment but noise was still there. Changed all 4 hubs which quietend it a little but the droning is still there.
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Took car to a proper garage this time. He's stripped the bottom of the engine and has said that the previous owner had the pump removed at sometime and who ever put it back in used loads of sealant. The sealant has ended up blocking the oil feed pipe which has then caused damage to the crankshaft bearing in the engine. He sent me 2 pictures one of the oil pump and one of some part of the engine that's been scored.
From what I remember he said the bearing had been marked and their was small particles of metal in the oil.
IMG_1464.JPG
IMG_1465.JPG
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Just been notified by my local that the oil pressure switch didn't work. They say the have visually inspected the oil filter housing and no oil is getting there. They say it's the pump that's at fault. Any ideas?
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Not off the top of my head, it will be lower when it's warm than when cold. Pity they don't fit oil pressure gauges, I think the last car I had with one was a 309 gti in the 80's. With regard to the turbo, if it is the original, it could well have been tired at 120k. So a refurb is not necessarily a waste of money if you intend to keep the car even if it had not been damaged by this problem.
Thanks laurie, I am going to keep the car for another year or 2 so any work I carry out is beneficial for me. Hope it's sorted soon. Tomorrow I'll find out if the oil pressure switch was the problem. Fingers crossed.
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Anyone know what psi oil pressure should be at idleing?
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where is the car, have you got it back? if its on the garage (turbo man) property they wont release it without payment and retain it till payment is made in full
tip:- pay by credit card
just in case
I know the mechanic so when cars done I'll be taking it for a very long test run
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The point that I'm making (and so has Litch in your other thread) is that they should have eliminated the £25 switch in the first place, because THAT is the most likely issue, given there was no lack of oil. Sorry to be suspicious, but there are still so many rogue so-called "specialists" still thriving in the motor trade unfortunately, you don't know for sure that there was anything wrong with the oil pump nor, indeed, the turbo. If the pressure switch IS the problem, are they going to refund you? I suspect not. How much have you shelled out to this lot to date?
Well I don't think I'll get the £540 back for the work carried out on the oil pump drive but I've yet to pay my local for the turbo and labour. If the oil switch is the culprit then my local have donated the turbo recon and labour as they wont get a penny from me. Not told them yet otherwise even if it was the switch they'd start their sentence with 'once upon a time' lol
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AFAIK, it is a lack of oil or pressure the makes the light come on, not "engine damage"? And how would they know the turbo had been damaged? I hope it's not just a faulty level or pressure sensor switch...
Well when I got the car recovered to my local my mechanic had a vague idea of what it could be from previous experience. so he got it towed to a local specialist who confirmed it was most likely the oil pump drive which later they confirmed. So had the drive upgraded to the thicker one and shaft balanced. They advised me that the engine was fine and no damage had been caused, but the turbo bearings had gone with the turbo being starved of oil. So I got the car back to my local and sent the turbo off for it to be reconditioned. Today my local was going to take it on a test drive when they didn't even get out of the garage and the light popped back on. My local said they had spoken to someone who rebuilds engines and they have said with the work I have already done it is most likely a faulty oil pump or suffered engine damage. Which is highly unlikely as when the car left the specialist he confirmed the engine was free from any damage. So fingers crossed the only thing that could be causing the light to come on is the oil switch.
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Just noticed you've got two threads on the same subject goin on mate but I'm pleased someone else has suggested the sensor switch, as opposed to.... "Yeah, let's go for the most expensive options first, eh?!"..Oops... they already did. Bad form that....
Mods can you combine please?
Yes Ive just realised theres 2 posts. don't know how exactly that happened but im hoping a mod can combine.
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How many miles has the car done ? Did you check the oil level when the light came on ? I would not expect damage from driving half a mile with the oil light on. The oil pressure sensor check would be a good next move I think .
Hi Laurie I checked the oil level as soon as the light came on and it was fine as I had serviced the car 2 weeks before. The cars done 120k and I service it every 7k miles as I do a lot of driving.
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First thing to do is find the oil pressure switch (often the only sensor on an engine with just one wire going to it) and visually inspect it with and without the electrical connector attached. If oil appears to be leaking through it, the diaphragm inside it has ruptured and it will no longer reliably switch at the correct pressure.
Thanks for your reply wino ive told my mechanic to an oil pressure test and to visually inspect the oil pressure sensor.
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The oil pump problem is with the PD engine. I presume that you have checked the oil dip stick level.
Garage drained tank and filled with new oil so levels spot on.
Intermittent blue smoke rough idle.
in Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015)
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But with a dpf regen wouldn't the dpf light come on?