webweasel
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Posts posted by webweasel
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This was extremely helpful, thanks. It’s exactly the same on mine. In fact it’s clearly got so hot the solder joint (on the reverse side) has gone bad so I’ll have to clean it up with a contact cleaner pen and then re-solder it.
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I haven’t had mine changed and the car is 7 years old but with less than 55k on the clock. Only had a couple of thousand when I bought it in early ‘15 so I’m chancing my arm but I’m not changing it until the Easter at the earliest.
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This happened to me this week. Fortunately there is a detailed guide in the Yeti forum here which also applies to Mk3 Octavias. The part is about £35 and it takes 10 minutes to replace.
On 16/07/2019 at 18:51, ExSEAT said:To be fair nows the time to think about replacing it, not when it sticks closed again in the near future!
There have been some threads about replacing these, unless Ive imagined it. Try a search you might get lucky with a part number and a procedure.
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Many thanks to Weasley. Had been having similar issues with my Octy and was glad to have this guide. Took about 10 minutes. We now seem to be on revision F for the actuator!
On 13/06/2016 at 18:55, weasley said:Just to update this, I ordered the part from Skoda, received a couple of days later and fitted it tonight. Luckily I could still open the fuel flap by thumping the body just behind the flap and pressing 'open' on the fob (even though the car was already unlocked, I pressed 'open' again and it popped open).
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If I were a cautious fellow, I would think about pre-emptively changing this part if my car was getting on a bit. It's a 10 minute job for less than £30; luckily I caught mine before the nightmare of having to break into the flap if it fails completely.
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Okay, so I just fixed the parking ticket clip. You can’t bend the clip using hot water or a hairdryer so I resorted to holding it near an electric grill element (with pliers!) until it started to soften. Worked a treat. Do draw a profile of the clip before you heat it though, so you don’t go too far out.
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EFB is an enhanced flooded battery. Basically an improved version of a standard wet battery. It can take about three or four times the recharge cycles of a standard battery. AGM is advanced glass mat, a gel battery which is superior to EFB in all respects but it is more expensive.
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2 hours ago, broona said:
It really needs coding? Bummer, could be awkward at the moment with the lockdown. 🤔
Depends. My 5 year old battery died quite quickly before Christmas. As it was probably EOL I didn’t worry too much about conditioning it. I kept it limping on for a few days using a sealed battery charger (not a start-stop one) whilst waiting for the new one to arrive. I replaced it with the exact same Exide EFB battery. Didn’t code it and haven’t experienced any problems. All the electronic systems run as they should. Start stop works fine. Coding it is necessary if you change type (eg EFB to AGM). It may be necessary if the car is trying to conserve power with a new battery. It will still work and you can still code it later when all this business is over.
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I’ll get over it 😉. Just need to fix the parking ticket clip!
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Pilkington
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Thanks for the pointers @silver1011. All fixed now - easy enough and preferable to losing an hour of work taking it back tomorrow.
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1 hour ago, ScoutCJB said:
I wouldnt have said the sun glare strip was distracting - its a decent size. My Audi doesnt have one so i ended up making one out of black Vinyl as the sun glares through the gap
It’s not the shade strip itself that’s distracting, it’s the arrangement of the dots. It’s different to the oem screen and there’s an interference pattern that jumps out if you look from a certain angle. Not clever of whoever designed it. -
Actually I’ve just realised my front washers no longer work. 😡 Good grief. How difficult can it be!
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Good thread @silver1011, thanks.
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I think the screen is slightly further out than before. I might be able to take off the clip and bend it a bit more in some hot water...
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So a week or so ago I got a fairly large ‘bullseye’ stonechip right on the centreline of the steering wheel and had to have a new screen.
The fitting was fine but now (despite me asking them to check) the parking ticket holder doesn’t touch the screen so won’t work. Does anyone have any tips for fixing this (a-pillar trim off presumably).
Also (and a minor point this, but it annoys me) the fritting patten on the Pilkington screen is very badly designed and creates a distracting effect. Perhaps someone here will understand and shares my pain! -
2 hours ago, Ecomatt said:
Had the same of recent. Dealer wanted £560 for a battery...
Mwahaha! 😂
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On 21/02/2020 at 09:08, lway said:
In the end i think I had to stand outside the car and push it in towards the center of the car to get enough power behind it.
Yes, that’s the way to do it. Easy peasy with the right technique. More here: -
My 63 plate with original battery died this winter (and quite quickly too). I did have some electronic gremlins in the months leading up to it dying, which in hindsight should have been a head’s up. With start stop, it’s easy to order the wrong replacement if you’re not careful. You’ll need EFB or AGM. If the old battery is EFB you can upgrade to AGM but not vice versa. The car will need to be re-coded if you change manufactures and especially if you change types (EFB to AGM). Found Tayna to have very good prices and fast delivery.
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13 hours ago, laur said:
I want to mount a dashcam, but i do not want to remove A pillar. I just put the cable with force between windscreen and A pillar trim, under A pillar. I think is ok. What you think?
Removing the A pillar trim was a doddle after reading this thread. Open the door, peel the edge out from under the door rubber and about ⅓ of the way down, push both sets of fingers in until they touch the back of the plastic trim. Now push with moderate force and the top half should pop off. The bottom half should come off with a bit of jiggling. In my case both retaining clips were left behind on the A pillar. Just slide them up to disengage (being careful not to let them fall into the cavity) and slide them back into place on the inside of the plastic cover ready for re-attaching.
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Quick question: do I need to get it re-coded if I replace the battery with the exact same make and model as the oem Exide EFB?
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I've been thinking about this since it happened to me. I think the issue is that the ratchet doesn't start right away and the cable is quite taught. So if you don't put the handbrake on quite hard, it doesn't engage the ratchet (or not properly at least) and can pop off again. For this reason I try to remember to always leave it in gear, but it isn't an automatic reflex yet.
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From Honest John: "the problem is that diesel particulate filters have a limited life of perhaps 80,000 to 100,000 miles before they become completely clogged with ash, cannot be cleaned out or 'replenished' and need to be replaced."
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That's bloody infuriating! But on the bright side it could have been a lot worse, and PDR will get that straight won't it?
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Sorry to reserrect an old thread but I had some annoying water-spotting when I washed the car at the weekend. After some research I found Currys are selling a small magnetic water conditioner for £8 (reduced from £20). With some hosepipe adapters I'm going to fit it to the tap-side of the pressure washer. Haven't tried it yet, so can't say how effective it is but thought some others might be interested.
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Rear shades
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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I hope I’m allowed to do this (since it’s a giveaway rather than selling) but does anyone want rear window shades for a hatchback. A little sun-faded but otherwise fine. Oxford.