Septor

Anyone?

Hey fellas, I have an Octavia vRS MK3 2014, and right now my turbo goes "su tu tu tu" after I up-shift. If it is done with high load, it simply sounds louder (my car sounds like a supra right now lol). Anyway, this has driven me to get a VCDS scan by my friend, and the following log has appeared (with more errors..). I do have an APR turbo muffle delete and APR intake, but it is a brand new engine (prior one died because a piston got cracked into two) without APR management software.. so just intake and muffler delete (not sure if it has anything to do with the problem). Also, I am not sure regarding the other 3 issues beside the pressure valve, have any of you seen them before? tried looking on google but couldn't find something that relates to MK3 vRS.. Regarding the pressure valve, is it dead? is there a way to make sure it is mechanical issue and not electronic without buying a new one and replacing? Thank you! 4 Faults Found: 15454 - Blocking Valve for Coolant (N82) P1888 00 [047] - Short to Plus Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 6 Mileage: 78452 km Date: 2017.09.17 Time: 03:56:35 Engine speed: 1186.00 /min Normed load value: 19.6 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 26 °C Intake air temperature: 26 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.906 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: IS STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL T_AST_SAE: 5 s MAP_MES_SAE: 57 kPa Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.807 V FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 16.796875 % FUP_H_SAE: 5890.0 kPa 15327 - Torque Management Request Input Signal A P2545 00 [032] - Implausible Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 15181 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) P2261 00 [104] - Mechanical Malfunction Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 4 Mileage: 80836 km Date: 2017.10.16 Time: 19:34:51 Engine speed: 2427.50 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 130 km/h Coolant temperature: 90 °C Intake air temperature: 30 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.671 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 26 Engine: operating status: PUC STATE_BPA[0]: OPM Charge air pressure control valve position: target value: 0.00 % Charge air pressure control valve position: actual value: 0.61 % MAP_MES_SAE: 25 kPa Charge air pressure control valve activation pulse duty factor: -14.80 % Charge air pressure control valve voltage: position closed: 3.8205 V 15304 - Engine Off Timer Performance P150A 00 [032] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 82343 km Date: 2017.11.10 Time: 07:33:26 Engine speed: 807.25 /min Normed load value: 7.1 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 91 °C Intake air temperature: 25 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 11.914 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 24 Engine: operating status: IS STATE_LS_SAE[1]: OL_CDN T_AST_SAE: 0 s MAP_MES_SAE: 30 kPa T_ES: 3 min T_ES_CNT: 0 ECU_STATE: SYN_ENG_IGK_ON

Sorry for the late response, busy times. Shouldn't be able to tell all the info from the engine number?

Hello! My vRS 2014 (MK3) had an engine failure, apparently the piston got cracked into 2. Anyway, I got my engine replaced completely (no turbo included). Now, I wish to know, was there any revision upgrade or something to the pistons or the engine since 2014? did skoda "acknowledged" such engine failures and officially fixed the issue? I am asking because I don't know as of now if the engine won't fail again. By the way, almost all of the vRS in Israel had the same problems. Also, the Golf GTI has the exact same engine, how come they don't fault? Some weird black magic is happening here.. thanks :D!

So.. It took quite a while for the bulbs to arrive and for me to install them. Because I don't have any means to determine if the light is actually brighter or gets farther besides my eyes, I can't really tell that there is indeed an improvement.. So my verdict will be that if you don't mind shedding another 20 pounds per bulb to give it a try while your older bulb is dead, go for it.. otherwise don't bother "Upgrading". Thank you all again for the kind help!

Maybe I am searching for the wrong item.. I couldn't find anything on eBay. Seriously I feel like an idiot.

I really tried and look it up.. I can't seem to find any dealer or "garage" or whatever that sells the oil pan.. That is why I am asking here guys and also wondering regarding the steel Gold MK7 one, because I have exhausted all other means..

Because Skoda dealerships in Israel sells it for 550$.. while on the internet it is 60$..

Still waiting to see that..

It looks almost the same in shape, but perhaps there is someone here who could shed some light?

Hey! So I apparently hit my Oil pan/carter/oil sump (depends how you call it in your country) and it is now leaking.. I probably hit the pavement in a parking area and the shield took the bang and transferred some of it to the oil pan. The leak is very small, and we did secure it, but I was trying to find a brand new plastic (that is what I have) oil pan on ebay and couldn't find any.. Perhaps I am missing something? Thank you!

For those of you who might have wondered, hard-wiring the Valentine One and the dashboard camera to the fuse box did the job, no need for any special item or anything.. they switch on and off with the car now :)

I still haven't ordered, will do in the next few days probably and it will most likely take between 2 weeks to a month for them to arrive.. I'll keep you updated :)

As stated before, the warranty is for 2 years and I am a few months after that.. so no go on that one. And I think I'll go for the OSRAM Xenarc night breaker.. that extra distance will be great for my night traveling :D https://www.osram.com/automotive/products/vehicle-and-bicycle-lighting/cars/xenon-headlight-lamps/xenarc-night-breaker-unlimited/index.jsp#

One more question though, my Mechanic told me to avoid the "black ring" fitting on the right and take the "metallic ring" fitting on the left. Is there any truth to it? He said that the right one is older fitting and won't work with my car. A different guy said that all I need is D3S and it should work.. though D3S from my understanding is the connection port, and not the fitting.. http://imgur.com/6bcn9KY

Can you recommend any stores?

Hey, So the warranty in Israel for Skoda is only 2 years and unfortunately, I am beyond that by a few months. But, I did go to the garage and it was indeed the bulb that was faulty, it had a leakage in the gas chamber, thus becoming orange-ish after heating a while. Anyway, so I am looking on Ebay to purchase a pair of bulbs, but I can't tell which are compatible with the car.. I know I need the "metal fitting" and not the black kind of something that there is at the base of the bulb itself (not the metal box beneath). I had on my car "PHILIPS XenStart 9285 335 244 D3S 35W" and I was wondering if the same bulb but with code "9285 304 244" will work as well? Thank you and happy holidays :)

By ballast I assume you mean the amplifier? Also, which bulbs should I buy? I want the same as the original, and without errors of course :D Thank you!

Hello! I started noticing that my left xenon headlight ( I think it is bi-xenon) is sometimes working and sometimes simply "faded" or simply weaker with a slight yellowish/orange-ish look to it on normal beam. It even gave me a warning once on the drivers info panel that I need to check the Dipped headlight (something) and didn't show up anymore even that the light is faulty. Any idea? Thank you and happy holidays :)

So, after consulting with a friend which has some "know how" knowledge, he told me that if we connect both devices internally, there shouldn't be any problem because you can do what ever the hell you want.. pick permanent or ignition based.. I'll post an update once it is done ! Thank you anyway.

Hello, I have recently purchased a Valentine One and a dash board camera, which led me to find that even when the car is off (not even half switch or anything, completely off), I still get voltage from the lighter port and the USB port (both near the driver, not the voltage port in the rear). My question is : Is there a way to turn off that voltage when the car is off? VCDS perhaps or something? Next week or so I am going to fit both devices internally anyway, but I was wondering if it will happen there as well? (Can't really reach it once it is internal..) Thank you all

@Briskodian, I assume it is correct.. didn't touch it since I bought the car. Just an update : took it to the mountain road this evening (just came back) and it actually held great, but that was like 90% 3rd gear.. So you guys were right, it requires a really gentle and precise foot with just a little getting use to it. @Newbie, It is true what you said and that is why I use 39psi, but shouldn't I use lower, like 37 or 35 for rear wheels ? I always use 39 but I wonder if lower pressure on the rear would help a little with the rear tendency to slide..

I understand. Thank you all for you help

Hey guys ! I have two questions and didn't want to open it up on two separate posts : One: I assume it is a "global issue" with the vRS acting like a boat during fast cornering and high speed driving.. I mean, I basically put the captain hat on and start sailing :P I assume Antiroll- bars will improve on this issue and I wanted to ask which should I buy, what size and which company ? and also if I "buy" for a VW GTI Mk7 it would fit me (they don't have skodas there) ? since I buy it in the US and bringing it to my country (Israel) I checked on USP since I already got a Carbonio intake and Turbo mufler delete from them and the pricing was fair and delivery was quick. P.S. : Don't mind the delivery price.. I have it covered. Second: I just got APR Stage 1 on my car, and it feels great. The thing is, in first and second gear the car barely manages to get the power all the way down to the road and the "car drifting" light blinks like all hell broke loose. I know it is also a factor of road slippery and tire temps, but I was still wondering if this is usual or I am doing something wrong ? (beside being more gentile on the pedal, as I wish to utilize this power) I currently have a Pilot Super Sport tires on the front with medium wear and tear, and P-Zero on the rear with medium-light wear and tear (but I guess the rear tires aren't the issue here). Oh and they are all of course 225/35R19 usually at 39PSI. Thank you all in advance!

Hey guys, thank you for the help ! I was away for a while and couldn't "close" the topic.. I didn't see any "low power" remap on APR site, anyone has a link ? And regarding the warrenty check with the DTUK's tuningbox, I'll check it out I also can't believe I wrote ECM instead of ECU.. (ECM = Electronic Counter Measures which means I've been reading some military stuff again haha XD)