Chrispy
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Posts posted by Chrispy
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Update. Car has been in dealer for 2 days - received a call not long ago saying the new rack is on, the knocking has been cured (yaaaay) BUT they can't get the steering angle sensor to adapt. They're consulting SUK now as we speak....
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It's in being worked on as we speak.... should be picking it up today...... will report back findings and if the car is magically transformed......
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Raise the height adjustment to the top - that stopped mine knocking.
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I have a Parrot 3200LS and the output of that goes through the Stream head unit. Therefore you can control the bluetooth volume on the phone and also the speaker output volume on the head unit. If the call is too quiet then simply turn it up on the head unit.
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Yeah I know. I'm just cynical at the moment. Grizzle is the same. Both bitter from having unreliable cars and getting to know customer services on a first name basis.
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Had something similar on Fabia VRS - a single "knock" when taking up drive/ bite. Was the engine mount under the battery needed "lubricating". Dogbone was replaced but made no difference.
Not aware of a similar issue on Octy though - DMF is a possibility and quite common which is crazy for a car so young. It should outlive the clutch..... Seems par for the course these days with VAG though. Longevity is not something they aspire to, at all. 9k is barely run in. :(
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Sigh, something else to look forward to. Mine was replaced a few months ago with a Sanden unit under good will. Have warranty on it though as I did have to contribute 200 quid. Wasn't totally free. If they pay for the lot you get zero warranty. Mental.
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Another compressor bites the dust. And your car doesn't look that old either....shows they still have a parts bin full of faulty ones.
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Well done mate, its given me slight hope i might contact the selling dealer of my car and ask about it under the SOGA i'm sure you cant "remap" a steering rack lol.
Thanks mate. Was quite surprised as I was expecting a fight....
If you've had as much trouble as you say definitely SOGA and if they get awkward small claims court - it's only about £80 I think but worth it. What really gets me riled is that this is VAG's attitude all over. The cars they are producing are clearly using sub standard components which SHOULD NOT be failing after 3 years of life. I've had 15 year old E36 BMW's on their original clutch, steering rack, A/C pump, flywheel, blah blah blah - yet this lot seem to shrug their shoulders and think it's normal when you're stood at the dealership week after week claiming good will for failed parts on a car that's in its infancy.
It's madness and something that has put me off VAG as a whole. Spend any time on the Audi forums and it's a similar story - it's how I found out the rack failure on this platform is common and the Golf forums have lots of GTi owners complaining about failed A/C, tumble flaps, turbos and so on and so forth. P!55 poor.
Least reliable car of 2009? Audi A5.....
http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/cars/article-1678514/Least-and-most-reliable-UK-cars-2009.html
It seems that the cars are only designed to last 3 years and then fall apart. Funny as that's how long the warranty lasts.....
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Another update. Skoda UK have agreed to pay for a new steering rack to be fitted - 100% of the cost.
So waiting now to be booked in.......
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Also all the problems you've stated arn't right lol. Coil packs have a recall out which included my 130k non full service history one, so 4 brand new revised packs. The oil pumps arn't the problem its the pick up pipe getting blocked due to dodgy servicing or if the sump had been replaced and too much sealent used. There hasn't been a post on the octy one forum that I've seen about a cam belt snapping prematurely so can't comment on that. A 6 speed gearbox would be good if the 6th was a proper cruising gear, unlike the cupras lol
Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!
Just going by experience I've had of the 1.8T. If they did a recall on the coil packs, great - but I've known several people in recent months who are still having problems. One has a TT whos cam belt snapped - Audi specialist he took it to says he sees loads with snapped timing belts and there's now a roaring trade in reconditioned heads with new valves etc. Oil pump wise, you're right there - it's a blockage but doesn't that result in the pump having to be changed? 5 speed wise, that's more personal preference. 5 speeds will equal a greater jump in gearing per shift, and also it's now force of habit to reach for 6th even when it's not there.
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Yup, just realised we're not talking VRS here. Ooops.
Ignore the last part of my post. Rest still applies. -
From what I gather the MKI has proven to be more reliable than the MKII. There was a guy on here that ran a taxi firm and he insisted that was the case having had fleets of both.
My wife's Fabia VRS MKI has been bomb proof whereas my MKII Octy VRS has been nothing but trouble. If the MKI Octy is of the same ilk as the MKI Fabia (should be) then that would make sense as to why people find them more reliable.
Main thing on the 1.8T 20v MKI though is the coil pack issues, oil pump failure, snapped timing belt etc - same as the Leon Cupra and the TT. Also it's a 5 speed box - MKII is a 6 speed and that is a big one for me.
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Ah, that's out then. Plenty of 120d's on the market too. Now those are ripe for chipping......
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I think I'd end up with about £2k in "equity" which isn't a lot but it just means I'd still be paying off the loan until the same time. Was looking at a Honda Civic 2,2 CDTi Type S today. Shame the engine is so gutless for a 2.2 otherwise it's a nice car and I'm betting won't fall apart like these things.
Not sure I can face going back to BMW but a 123d would be ok I guess.
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Ha ha ha. Mate you crack me up. Unfortunately I agree with you to a point if I look at the newer cars from a reliability perspective. Having said that the 04 plate MKI Fabia the Wife now has is still going strong at 90k. Just had to replace a rear brake caliper but that's it. FAR better car, and the sills are not made of chocolate either so you can jack it up without it folding like a slice of warm cheese.
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Trouble is I still owe 7k on the car, which is worth about 9k based on Autotrader prices so am not in a position to simply get rid.......I checked. :(
So I'm hoping that they can sort something out. Dealer is banking on getting 100% good will from the factory so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Steering feels horrible now - loose and clunky. That's after changing the drop links and front wishbone rear bushes (for poly ones) too.
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Further update.
Just had the phone call from the dealer saying they are now suspecting the rack.......like I kind of knew all along but hey ho.
So we're waiting on the results of a goodwill gesture request from Skoda and then we'll see where we stand. Could be up to 72 hours for that so I'm picking the car up in the meantime whilst I wait.
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The pump is clutchless so it always spins. What actually happens is the valve usually fails and it results in no gas going round the system. Same effect though and the pump needs changing.
I was quoted £1400 for the dealer to do it - replace the pump, drier and re-gas. Good will gesture got it down to £200 but that was on a newer car.
An alternative is just a new Sanden pump (which is the same manufacturer etc as the genuine one) and that's about £600 plus fitting I think from an independent.
I feel your pain mate, but unfortunately this one is extremely common. :(
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Had PS3's on the Octy, now replaced all 4 for F1's as an experiment. Front's lasted about a year before hitting the wear markers - (about 14k) but the car is driven fairly hard. Rears had not lasted that long due to rear alignment being out but the amount of tread on the outer edge was still about 5mm after 2 years so they can last well.
I've found the F1's seem to apply the power to the road more reliably - the PS3's spun and chattered if you applied too much power whereas these seem to dig in and pull the car forward without much fuss. They are 'slightly' noisier than the PS3's though.
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Hi all,
After discovering yesterday that my handbrake was as stiff as hell to apply/ disengage I realised it was the little slidy gaiter causing the issue as it was sticking in its guides. I asked a few folks on here for advice and then decided to have a go at "sorting" this myself. Here's some photos and some notes for the benefit of others as removing the jumbo box console is fiddly.
Part 1 - in the back.
From the back seat remove the rear ash ash tray by lifting out the inner tray and pulling off the opener. The left side pulls out of a catch, the right is on a pin.
Next up you need to remove the rear vents. These just pull out but do need some force to do so. Be careful not to break anything:
After this you can remove the rear shroud. There are 2x screws at the bottom pointing horizontally and 2 at the top right under the back part of the arm rest. After this again it just pulls off but the top might need some force. Again be careful.
It'll then look like this:
Next, lift the arm rest all the way up......this is so you can get to the aux 3,5mm headphone jack plug underneath to disconnect it:
Here's the aux plug pulled out. Warning - this is as fiddly as hell and there's nack all slack on the cable so BE CAREFUL.
Now we're into the front of the car:
From here pull out the gearknob gaiter like this. No need to fully remove it:
Remove the 2x screws that hold the ash tray in and pull that out. Ensure you disconnect the ash tray light plug too. That's quite easy but again not much slack on mine.
Now the ash tray is removed we need to remove the side carpets so we can gain access to 2 hidden screws. You'll see where those are in a minute.....
To do this, undo the screw that holds the carpet on to the bulkhead right under the dash. There's one on either side. Also looking in where the ashtray once was you'll see 2x more screws that hold onto a horizontal bracket which is attached to the carpet. Remove those too.Then push the carpet towards the front of the car so the clips that hold it onto the trim around the radio / heater controls are freed:
Same applies to both sides.
Next up are those hidden screws I mentioned. This hold the console to the trim that goes around the head unit etc and point upwards. Here's the screwdriver on them so you can see the angle/ location:
Now the console should be free. It needs to be manoeuvred such that the gaiter comes over the handbrake (which needs to be as high as it will go by the way).
Bearing in mind the cigarette lighter and central locking switches are still attached. I didn't disconnect these as I didn't remove the console completely to get the gaiter out. There was also plenty of slack on the wires for me too which was handy so the console could be lifted quite high without concern.
Now the rear of the console should be high enough to get access to the gaiter track. So back into the back seats again...... and you'll see this:
And the gaiter being slid out of its track..... Remember which way it went in. Mine had a nice crease in it to help with that. :(
Here's the gaiter removed. You can see it's missing a tooth, has folded and a few of the other teeth have become a bit wonky as the overall shape has distorted. Poor quality material really as it's mis-shapen over time and that's what's screwed it up.
I filed down some of the teeth a TINY BIT with a steel file as I was advised so they weren't fluffed up or wonky any more. I then sprayed the track of the console (visible from the front of the car now the gaiter is out) with some white grease to help keep it lubricated when it goes back in.
Re-assembly is a reversal of removal and I found it to be harder, especially getting the side carpet back in, the aux jack attached and the rear vent pipe back on. Take your time and don't force anything - if it won't go simply remove and try again.
Hope this helps some folks a little. Also apologies for the photos - they were taken with my phone hence the varying exposure levels. :(
Chris.
EDIT - I didn't replace my gaiter but I will probably in the future as it's not got much life left in it. I think the part is about £12 from the dealer.
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Right, it's done. Photo's and write up on the way. Once you know where the screws are and which bits are screwed and on which bits need to just be pulled off (hard) then you're ok.
Need a new steering rack :( But ABC in Pudsey are great. :)
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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Well just goes to show how much Milton Keynes (don't) know - it's still not home as they can't get it to adapt after 3 days. This is getting silly now as even once it's finished it needs to go for a 4WA so there's another day without it.
Seriously, just give me my money back and I'll go buy something else that doesn't fall apart/ can be fixed quickly/ doesn't cost £1,000,000 to run. :(