Sympol

Thanks for the responses. I've checked around and rather than buy a used alternator from a wreckers yard, or a set of replacement diodes, I've opted for a new alternator, as the price differential is not that great. And now I've got a spare voltage regulator if I ever need one. The new alternator is on the way to my local (20km distant) collection point, so it looks like a decent cycle trip in the next few days to collect it - I don't want to use the car in its current condition and risk any further damage to the electrics.... Thanks again for the responses

Hi all, looking for some help to solve an ignition warning light/alternator problem on my Felicia. Driving to the shops recently I could hear a whining, consistent with engine revs increasing/decreasing. On parking I checked the belt, OK., but I noticed that the ignition warning light stayed on (dimly) even when switched off. Luckily the car restarted and I could drive home. I've since removed the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator/brushes assembly, as one of the brushes was much more worn than the other. However, the problem still remains, even with the new brushes etc. in that the warning light stays on and increases in brightness with engine revs. However the warning light no longer comes on when the ignition is switched off, so hopefully I don't need to worry about flattening the battery when the car is not being used. My next thought is perhaps the diode assembly is faulty, but before I go ahead and order a new assembly, I'm wondering if perhaps it would be wiser to simply buy a replacement alternator? Anyone have any suggestions/ideas? Thanks!

Thanks everyone. After re-bleeding the brakes several times, I managed to get what appeared to be even pressure on both rear wheels. I don't have a balance valve so that wasn't the problem, but worth a mention. A visit to the MOT testing station has confirmed that the brakes are now evenly balanced - and better than the previous visit - so the work was not in vain. I now have replacement wheel cylinders to hand ready for replacement in due course when the weather improves.....

Thanks again all - i'll let you know how it works out. At least now I've changed over to summer tyres as a bonus for all the faffing about with the wheels.....

I've stripped everything down again and rebuilt, bled the brakes (a lot) and now seem to have brakes on that wheel. Not been able to loosen either the brake line union or the cylinder holding bolts, so for now I'll have another retest at the MOT station and see if they can measure any improvement. If not, I'll have to give up and book a time at my local repair workshop. Either way, I'll need to get a professional to change the whell cylinders eventually, but the priority is to get mobile again, as I have a Covid-19 vaccination booked the week after next... Thanks everyone for the comments and tips

OK, no, that part is free! The handbrake works fine on both wheels, it's just the 'normal' brakes which don't seem to be working on the right rear. I'm having another look at everything after lunch! Thanks - I'm not allowed to add any more reactions today, apparently!

You mean the little wedge-shaped piece that drops down as an automatic adjuster? I did wonder about that as it seems quite stiff to move. I'll strip it down again after lunch and see if I can loosen it up a bit......

I can't feel any sponginess in the pedal and the other rear wheel works fine. Perhaps I need to repeat the bleeding(!) process a few times to get a result......

Do you mean use that to flush the old fluid out?! Never heard of it before......

Thanks, yes I have a set of brake spanners! I can turn the union slightly, but the problem is that it is stuck on the brake pipe itself, so that turning the union begins to twist the pipe and I'm afraid of shearing the pipe. I've heard that if I can undo the cylinder retaining bolts I can move the cylinder inwards and then rotate that while holding the union, so that the cylinder unscrews from the union, tather than the other way round. However, not sure if I can undo the cylinder retaining bolts as these seem to be hex sockets - or torx? - and are very rusted. I'll try cleaning those again and scraping out the sockets with a very fine screwdriver to see if I have a hex or torx key to fit. Another alternative is to let the pipe shear, then remove the back plate so I can get to the cylinder bolts more easily and perhaps cut a slot in them so I can use a screwdriver - or simply grind or drill the heads off to remove the old cylinder. And then flare the ends of the pipe again to fit the union (I have a flaring tool). But I need to make sure I have new bolts on hand otherwise I'm stuck in the forest with no transport! I'm assuming the new cylinders don't come with new bolts......

Thanks - I've ordered 2 new wheel cylinders and new brake fluid, but I'm uncertain of removing the old cylinders. When I tried to unscrew the pipe union, the union appears to be seized onto the pipe and I'm afraid I'll break the pipe if I continue turning. Also I'm uncertain of the bolts retaining the cylinders - these appear to be either torx or hex socket bolts, but not sure of the size because of the rust.... I don't want to use a blowlamp to warm up the union - perhaps I could use a heat gun instead? PS - it's Easter weekend here in Sweden just now.......

Morning all and Happy Easter! I'm hoping for a bit of advice on a problem with my 1999 Skoda Felicia 1.3 rear brakes. I live in Sweden and on the recent registration check the car failed because of an imbalance between the left and right rear drum brakes. I've stripped down both wheels and discovered that one of the pistons on the right rear wheel cylinder was stuck, presumably causing the problem. I have freed this, so that both pistons now move freely in the cylinders, rebuilt the brakes, adjusted the little wedge so that the drum is a reasonable fit over the shoes, bled the brakes (for that wheel) but the problem still persists. As I live alone with no near neighbours, I have tested the brakes by using a length of wood to hold down the brake pedal and attempting to turn the rear wheels while up on axle stands. The left wheel locks OK, but the right continues to be able to be turned, as if the brake shoes are not being activated. The parking brake works fine on both wheel, the shoes are almost new so have plenty of meat on them. When the shoes etc. are removed, I can compress the pistons with my fingers and the spring between the pistons does force them out slowly when I release pressure. I'm not able to confirm if the pistons move when the brake pedal is pressed, as I can't press the pedal and watch the pistons at the same time! However, as I am able to bleed the brakes on that wheel (I have one of those 'one man bleed kits' with a glass jar, a length of plastic tube and a one way valve, I can see that brake fluid is reaching that wheel. After bleeding, the pedal feels firm with no sponginess, so I assume there is no air in the system. At this stage I'm stumped as to why the brakes are not activated on that wheel when the pedal is pressed and would be very thankful for any suggestions. Replacing the wheel cylinder would be my next option, but this could be difficult as the holding bolts for the cylinder appear to be very rusted and I'm not sure if I'll be able to move them - or the pipe connector at the cylinder.... Thanks anyone for any advice......