BigEjit

16 February, 2023

5 hours ago, likaleica said:

Thank you. I don't think stop start is any benefit unless you constantly drive in city traffic - which I don't!

Micro hybrid is its correct term. It’s a software controlled way of reducing energy consumption and emissions by putting more work through the battery and only using alternator output when needed. It’s constantly varying and needs to know what is going on throughout the electrical circuits to determine the correct alternator output. It’s also set up to maximise the life expectancy of the battery during an average lifetime duty cycle.

Unregulated charging overcharges the battery, excess energy is turned to heat. The last thing you need in a 12v battery is excess heat as it accelerates decay.

A standard battery will work in S/S applications but it’s set up means it’s approx 50% less durable than the equivalent AGM.

AGM - Absorbent Glass Mat

Top spec SS battery that takes a lot of abuse very well and accepts charge faster than the alternatives.

EFB - Enhanced Flooded Battery

Entry level S/S battery with polymer based plate envelopes and electrolyte mixer elements to boost durability against abuse. A halfway house between SLI and AGM.

SLI Flooded battery

Starting/Lights/Ignition

A basic battery that does the job but has no thrills at the expense of long term performance and resistance to abuse. Has a deep cycle frequency of around 50% less than the equivalent AGM. Will overheat quicker than alternatives if overcharged leading to moisture loss, wear, premature failure. Most likely to short circuit a cell or fail early out of these three battery types.

15 February, 2023

If StopStart function is on your vehicle, you need an EFB or AGM 096 battery (marked as such on the lid). A standard SLI flooded isn’t up to the job of handling S/S charging profiles over time and wears out quicker than the S/S graded batteries even if S/S function is switched off. S/S function is more than just cutting the engine when stationary.

15 February, 2023

On 13/02/2023 at 16:55, mccririck said:

I have a 2020 Octavia diesel and recently the battery keeps going flat unexpectedly. It's done about 42,000 miles. Sometimes it starts fine and other times I can leave the car for a short time and come back and it won't start. I've been using a battery powered jump starter which gets it going but it's really annoying.

I'm having to make sure the radio is off and there's nothing plugged in to the USB or 12V sockets if I'm sitting in the car with the engine off.

When out driving the stop start is still working fine which makes it seem even odder.

Has anyone else experienced this or does anyone know what could be wrong? I'm thinking there could be a wiring fault.

Sounds like an intermittent short circuit cell in the battery. This can happen if the battery has had a long period of discharge in the past promoting sulphate crystal growth that cannot be reversed. Add in an element of cupping of the plates from aging or frequent deep cycling and related heat and the short circuit can show when the battery warms up as the cupping effect increases.

If you are able to check the battery voltage during a period of non start and it is around 10,5v, this will be your issue, confirmed further if it suddenly recovers to normal 12.5ish volts. (Intermittent short circuit.)

Replacement of the battery is the only solution to these symptoms.

9 February, 2023

Low mileage vehicle = primary reason for the battery discharging and becoming ruined.

Stop Start not working frequently = an indicator of a ruined battery

Power consumption high = electrical system compensating for ruined battery

Random electrical notifications = linked to ruined batteries

I guess your battery is ruined. EFB is a stop/start battery but an AGM would be better for your driving duty cycle as it will take more discharge/recharge abuse. If the car isn't used much, this will also need replacing in the future as its not an infinite power source and needs a frequent long feed of electrical energy to keep it charged and alive.

8 February, 2023

On 03/02/2023 at 14:07, RIncewindwiz said:

I did ask yuasa in my discussion with them about the state of my battery. They said

"With regards to charging, our normal suggestion would be 1/10^th of the label rating for general recharging. If the voltage is sufficient, you will charge a battery even if the current is lower, it would just take longer to do so. To much current is not recommended as this can cause thermal issues inside the battery if used too frequently. "

So it seems that 7A not that critical and 8A, if not used too often, will be fine

Exactly this^^^^

Batteries are dumb organic lumps that need to be maintained as close to 12.72v (12.8v AGM) open circuit voltage as possible and used regularly to avoid performance decay.

The only key factor is that AGM batteries need to be charged with a limited voltage of 15v. Too much current, overcharging or rapid charging of any 12v lead acid battery will cause moisture loss through 'splitting' of the water content into oxygen and hydrogen gas. Do this too much and the moisture content loss will lead to a spark between dry spots on the plates igniting the gas in the space above. This does happen on batteries that are repeatedly deep discharged and recharged fairly quickly and frequently. AGM retain all the moisture in the glass mats, EFB and standard SLI batteries are wet flooded with far more electrolyte content.

If a battery is discharged towards 12v, sulphates start forming straight away. (Cant be helped, its what happens) They are reabsorbed when the battery is recharged. If they are left to harden by not fully recharging within a week or so or the battery is deep discharged, the sulphate crystals rob a little capacity from the battery by taking up/destroying some of the active material in the plates and won't dissolve back into the electrolyte. Keeping the battery in a low state of charge reinforces this until the crystals grow into the adjacent plate and create a permanent short circuit cell killing the battery or the storage capacity has been destroyed so much the battery can't hold enough energy to spin the starter and supply the vehicle systems at the same time.

Low mileage vehicles (7k kms/year is low!) typically kill off batteries in this way. Short trips won't fully charge a battery and the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)/storage capacity just gets progressively lower and lower. Even the odd longer trip won't be enough to help the battery recover. Voltage can be fine initially but drops off really quickly with any reasonable current draw applied. As a guide from 12.0v, chargers need to be left in place for 24 hours to reach 12.72v or higher and achieve full saturation of the plates. AGM's will reach and hold 13v fully charged.

When recharging, the battery is fine if it is still cool to the touch or its not venting sulphurous gas which you can smell. In the factories as a comparison, they rapid charge them several times whilst sitting in cooling baths and the air has a lingering eggy smell. Smart chargers are set to control the charge rates for home use appropriate to the battery performance and type.

31 January, 2023

On 27/01/2023 at 07:47, Nirrain said:

I'd appreciate more details, thanks!

In my case the rough timeline is the following

1. My 2018 Octavia was not driven much during the first Covid lockdown in 2020 and when driven (short and long trips) the start-stop function did not engage

2. At one point the car reported low battery but could still crank, but on that trip it suddenly went into "safe mode" and the mechanic said it was a broken spark plug. They said it was not related to the low battery, but I am inclined to think it is related.

3. Since then the start-stop was only rarely engaged even when I charged the battery with a smart charger so I concluded that the low battery situation had damaged the battery so I replaced it in dec 2021 and everything worked fine for a while

4. In the summer of 2022 I noticed the start-stop again did not engage and I suspected the "Skoda Connect" dongle that Skoda installed to be leaking power so started monitoring the battery and charging whenever it went to 12.3 or below - resulting in external charge 1-2 times a week.

5. I measured voltage across all fuses while the car was tricked to sleep mode, but could not find any leaks

6. Then I noticed that even after a 45 min drive the battery quickly went from 12.6 to 12.2V while parked for 2 days and that the 2Amp charger only took an hour before reporting the battery as full

7. Then I tried to leave the charger on maintenance mode for 48 hours and since then the voltage dropped from 12.6 to 12.5 after 3 days parked

As I understand the BMS does not only use voltage to gauge the SoC of the battery, so if the battery is charged to full while bypassing the BMS I would fear that the BMS thinks the battery is only at 80% or so and end up overcharging the battery?

1, Lockdown killed off plenty of batteries due to inactive vehicles. After approx 6 weeks layup with the battery connected, they will be in a discharged state with sulphates growing and hardening = unrecoverable capacity losses result ultimately requiring an early life change of battery if not fully charged ASAP!

2, Low battery warnings frequently coincide with other abnormal electrical warnings.

3, The principle signature of a discharged damaged battery is failing stop start esp if all other consumers are off. Do you know if the new battery was stored fully charged before you bought it or its age? Did you use the vehicle frequently after fitting the battery before having to externally charge? If no to either of these, this is the most likely root cause.

4, What sort of usage pattern do you have with the vehicle? Approx annual Kms/miles and downtime between journeys as an average? This is another key indicator of response and performance from the battery you are reporting and also a common root cause of early life failures.

5, Current draw is more important than voltage loss when vehicle is fully asleep - should be around 0.014Amps if i remember right. Any more and the battery discharges sooner requiring more use or charge cycles to compensate or even more unlikely, indicates a consumer is failing to switch off correctly (Dashcams are prime favourite here)

6, A fully discharged battery needs 24hrs to recharge and saturate the plates. a few hours run time won't have much lasting affect and leave the battery back in the original discharged state very quickly if the usage pattern stays the same.

Frequent full recharging from fully discharged by just running the vehicle on periodic long journeys can also increase wear rates on the battery and lead to moisture loss and overheating. Heat from frequent and brutal alternator based recharging from fully discharged state and/or intense summer temps also damages the battery from moisture loss and by turning the plates to mush losing capacity, which then usually shows in winter when cold. Overcharging a battery results in surplus energy being turned to heat..., which boosts waterloss..., which pushes things closer towards self detonation if there is a significant presence of internal damage already.......

13 October, 2022

Standard anthracite 19”.

I have never had an issue with them but I do go around anything that looks like a pothole so they don’t get wrecked.

The ride quality is fine. Just marginally more input from finer road surface harshness over a softer tyred 18” but no where near bad or off putting.

Avoid kerbs and placing face down if taken off the car as the front face stands proud of a 225 tyre.

31 March, 2022

Yes, both our Fab 3 and Oct 3 had this. A piggy back switch was fitted on both and no more issues. For 2 years now.

24 March, 2022

2 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

@BigEjit This is the type of "geeky" posts that we really do require so no apology required, but I wonder if it would also be advantageous for you to repeat this into a new post titled AGM - EFB - Stop Start or something similar with this info and possibly, if you have the knowledge and data, explaining the difference in chargers - Acumate, Ctek, generic old school type - to ensure we all use the correct type, info on the hidden stop/start features as I believe that this would allow easier availability in a search. Your post has cleared up many things for me, including some simple things such as the date location on the post, and is the type of info I really enjoy.

Thanks for the positivity. Much appreciated!

There’s quite a lot of open source info out on the internet, much more than I could ever fill a guide with. What isn’t so easily available is the answer to somebody’s immediate issue, especially as batteries are fickle organic lumps in a digital world and react to unique situations in different ways.

I try to help others out by explaining why a battery is doing what it’s doing based on its history. I guess we all want to help others experiencing issues anyway which is why we are all here.

BTW, the only real rule for chargers is ensure a voltage limited device to 14.8v is used on an AGM. If it has AGM program, sorted!!

EFB and Flooded are less fussy than AGM charging wise but need more attention and care as they are needy that way.

23 March, 2022

On 22/03/2022 at 12:12, rainford said:

Hi - I'm new to the forum so hope I am typing in the right place. My 2012 Greenline seems to have a failing battery. (I use the car very little so charge it weekly and have noticed that it is taking much longer to charge now). I have tried to source a battery online and these searches usually start with my registration number. The sites then suggest suitable batteries. I'm puzzled because all sites I have tried suggest a battery which is not suitable for the 'stop start' technology which my vehicle has. They usually suggest an alternative more expensive 'AGM' battery which is. The 'stop start' function rarely operates on my car due to the limited mileage I do and it is not a priority for me. My question then is - can I fit the cheaper battery if I'm not using 'stop start' or does the vehicle need the AGM battery for some other reason such as regenerative braking?

Can anybody recommend a good source of a decent replacement battery - I don't want to go to a main agent as I haven't had the 'fix'.

***Long geeky post alert***

Going off the battery label part number in you pic, you have one of these AGMs currently as in the pic below and it looks like the original battery. Check the date on the +ve terminal and it should show Mm/yy format (expecting a 12 for the year if original fit).

7P0 915 105 VARTA AGM

Stop start is currently not working as the battery has fatigued and the car has recognised this. (There is a lot more hidden functionality to the Stop Start set up other than just cutting and restarting the engine.)

For Stop Start functions, ideally you should swap like for like AGM tech battery.

For your usage pattern, the 2 reasons for this are….
1, AGM is the best tech for Stop Start functionality as it is handles the tougher duty cycle the vehicle is set up to operate under. Fitting a lesser tech battery such as EFB or standard flooded won’t have much of a performance impact short term and stop start functionality will be restored but they will be under more operational stress and wear out quicker with vehicle use.

2, As you are barely using the vehicle, the battery if left connected with monthly external charging cycles will be in a constant pattern of discharge/ recharge. AGM is the best battery tech to handle this type of duty cycle as it is more resistant to sulphation damage during discharge phases and recovers best on a recharge. Lesser tech won’t recover from discharge damage as well as AGM adding to a faster demise than what you have experienced so far.

A third reason to stick with AGM is that by regular discharge/ recharge cycling, batteries are more at risk of drying out. AGM are valve regulated to prevent this, EFB and flooded are more vented and lose moisture quicker putting them at greater risk of ‘popping’ after a few years of the same regime.

For a battery of 10 years aged and only now showing fatigue is exceptional for the duty cycle it’s operating under and is a testament to AGM performance. It’s been well maintained but is now wearing out.

You won’t get the same longevity from lesser tech batteries if you are planning on keeping the car for a good few years yet.

11 March, 2022

Volts seem a little low, would expect to see approx 12.4v, ignition off, key out, car unlocked.

Have you got a Midtronics reading of battery performance in particular Volts, CCA and temp vs label rating?

At 12.72v open circuit at 15'C, you should have a CCA reading approx 10 to 15% higher than the label rating if the battery is decent, matching or less than the label rating and its suffering.

A small loss of battery capacity across the cell packs will still give adequate voltage range but drop the vehicle response into S/S inhibit.

The EFB on our Fab wouldn't flag the faults you have shown but certainly prevented S/S operating unless externally recharged, then performance dropped off again a few days later and stayed there. Swapped it out for an AGM for the duty cycle the vehicle is used in and not had a problem since.

11 March, 2022

This whole thread is a list of symptoms.

The root cause is likely a partial loss of capacity in the battery due to a long period of inactivity such as the vehicle being parked up during lockdown and being recharged instead of replaced. A connected battery left in place for months will discharge into a state of irreversible internal damage.

See if you can find the build date of the vehicle somewhere and compare it to the sale date. Varta batteries will have a date code on a terminal in Mm/Yy format and will predate the vehicle by a few weeks.

If you find a lay up period of a few months, there’s the root cause - new battery time if the dealer didn’t use a battery care process, didn’t recharge once per month if still connected, or didn’t disconnect the battery for long time storage.

8 March, 2022

5 minutes ago, AGFalco said:

See link below, part four.

https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/standard-flooded-battery-start-stop

Had one come in at work where eventually, the non stop start battery that the customer had fitted, could not take the higher voltages from the car, that it cracked open and caught fire.

Thanks, AG Falco

It takes a lot of work to put a battery into a condition to crack a case. Stop start operational voltage range is OK for a standard flooded SLI to handle, it’s the aggressiveness of discharge/ recharge current and frequency that does the long term damage.

Ok to use SLI short term for a few weeks, still needs the right spec battery long term.

8 March, 2022

If the alternator is goosed, you will have the same issues turn up. It’s rare for alternator defects to appear though. Batteries are more sensitive to passive abuse and more likely to give issues as a result.

Inhibiting the stop start function on the button will save the standard battery from having to crank the engine frequently taking some of the stress off it. It will still be open to the work load of the charging strategy that’s operating in the back ground that you can’t change without external equipment. A frequently active stop start function is also a good indicator of a good battery. Stop start will still need an EFB or better performing AGM to handle the duty cycle.

Battery performance is difficult to measure accurately. Even the best gadgets at dealerships need an experienced head to interpret the results based on other variables around battery life.

Without having the measured values for Voltage, CCA and ambient temp to hand, it’s a bit of guess work to determine root cause. However…

Common causes of battery failure are:-

Infrequent short trips

Below average mileage vs age

A significant period of discharge during the life of the battery such as being laid up for a couple of months at holding yards or dealership forecourt’s with the battery connected allowing it to fully discharge. This could occur at any time from the moment the battery was first fitted to present day. Deep diving the vehicle history may find a period of time suitable to fit this pattern.

Repeat exposure to high heat soaking increasing internal decay which shows up later in cold environments as poor performance.

High mileage/ taxi duty cycle wearing it out.

Old age heading towards 10+ years service.

6 months lockdown with zero use/ needed a jump start.

I hope that sheds some light on things for you.

8 March, 2022

If you have swapped the EFB battery out and the issue has gone away, that’s an indication the old EFB battery is not performing right. Stop Start not working that often is another indicator of an end of life battery.

If you put the EFB back in and the issue returns, it’s definitely the cause and best practice would be to replace it with the same spec, higher rated EFB or pick an AGM of same case size. You can get a charger for it to see if it will recover a little but if it’s not OK in a frequently used car, recharging won’t help so just swap it out anyway.

Short term, the standard flooded battery will be ok to use as a substitute but the cars charging set up for EFB will work it harder than the battery spec is designed for. You won’t notice much difference, it just wears out quicker requiring replacement sooner.

5 March, 2022

Or did you trigger the ABS...?

5 March, 2022

1 hour ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

@BigEjit, detonation doesn't sound like a common thing in passenger cars?

Generally it isn't but the same battery tech is used in other non automotive applications with far less regulated maintenance available from vehicle use leading to consequential damage if not controlled manually.

16 minutes ago, CityScout said:

Anyhow! Back to the original question ..................

By some miracle, the pulse-charge 'repair' I did on the battery has held up for now, probably because it's being driven regularly - but it is staggering that a battery that showed under 3 volts has come back to that extent. I've got to lay the credit at the feet of the very clever guy who designed my pulse generator. Sadly, I can't find any reference to his business, so maybe folded, or given up.

I have a new EFB battery to fit but I'm uncertain that the current charging regime it has for an AGM will not harm the new battery, so unless someone knows otherwise, I'll wait until I can recode it before I fit it.

Its interesting you have picked an EFB instead of sticking with AGM but understandable if you have experienced issues on batteries you have had from new and know the history of.

From the lab testing i have seen, AGM do stand up to cycling and deep discharge events far better than any other tech type except Optima spirals. Optima Deep Cycle spiral batteries are built to take more abuse and use essentially the same materials as AGM, only the construction method is different. EFB is midway between SLI flooded and AGM with performance to match its position.

AGM allow for a more agressive charging/discharge strategy than EFB or flooded so the EFB will be worked harder on AGM charging profiles. By how much is it different..? Don't know with out comparing software mapping profiles side by side.

5 March, 2022

On 20/02/2022 at 15:52, CityScout said:

Now up to 12.2 volts after being left off charge for 3 hours. Back on again, with the pulse unit. Here's hoping ...........

The weather is really foul right now, so I'll leave it going until tomorrow morning and see what it gets up to, then try refitting it.

Slightly off-topic and not to teach Granny to suck eggs:

I've used and owned motorhomes for over 40 years and thought I knew a bit about batteries. We got a very unpleasant surprise recently when the habitation battery on our (relatively recently acquired) motorhome exploded - with a bang like a bomb had gone off. Fortunately it didn't catch fire but there was acid everywhere. It was a good quality, Varta proper leisure battery. I didn't know it's history, other than there had been electrical problems with the charging system that I cured. It appears that abuse in a previous life had damaged the battery and eventually it suffered an internal short. Hydrogen and oxygen, even in a fully sealed battery, make a good bomb!

The only clue I ever got (hindsight is a wonderful thing) is that it dropped its voltage to 10+ volts for no real reason a couple of days before and it gave almost subliminal flashes of a high charge rate the next morning - so quick you said to yourself "Did I really see that?"

I sourced a new battery intending to collect and fit it when we moved at the end of the week.

It exploded the next day and blew the top clean off:

even though it was strapped over the top and onto the floor with two 1" wide webbing straps - which it snapped. The photo doesn't do the carnage justice.

I had to lift a 37Kg bucket of acid out from under a seat and get it outside without spilling any more.

Wet filled batteries detonate after a lot of deep cyclic discharging/recharging. They lose water on frequent aggressive recharge phase through splitting it into hydrogen/ oxygen gas and venting some of it instead of recombining back to water on a more gentle charge. There will be tide lines inside the casing above the plates indicating this has taken place.

Once the acid level drops below the top of the plate packs, a spark can jump in the air space between adjacent plates usually when an electrical load is applied lifting the lid off.

Frequently seen this on industrial generators with acid sprayed everywhere inside the shipping containers.

5 March, 2022

A bit late to the party…

100%, the battery has lost capacity due to low miles over such an age range. It’s not going to improve so a replacement has to be made.

19 December, 2021

Or do the cheapest option…

Pop the bonnet first, park up in the garage, disconnect the battery and place the bonnet down without locking it.

The battery will hold charge for several months, no problem. It’s better to do this with a fully charged battery but if you run the car until stop start kicks in, that’ll be good enough. Cold weather slows the battery self discharge rate so a double bonus for this time of year.

A fully charged top condition battery will last approx 6 to 8 weeks connected before it’s discharged enough for a non start event. Any other battery with dubious history or low mileage will be less, by how much… about the same as a piece of string…

9 December, 2021

Any battery will last 10 years or more of it is looked after. Like you say, 10 months lay-up for any car with the battery connected will kill it. Even if it is recovered with a recharge, years of useful life expectancy can be wiped out.

After 6 weeks sitting still, it will be needing a recharge if left connected. In comparison, it can last 12+ months before requiring a recharge if disconnected. (Checked once every 3rd month).

AGM will go longer discharged and recover better than EFB but it’s not best practice to leave batteries discharged for a few days at a time.

Even new cars are at risk of this if a battery care process is not in place and followed.

Voltage does fluctuate on micro hybrid Stop Start systems. It’s a result of the alternator switching in and out for emissions savings. But if Stop Start function is rarely available during long drives, the battery is past its best.

7 December, 2021

8 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:

In terms of the old battery, this was rated at 68A 380 DIN / 680 EN/SAE and the battery tester reported the state as good, but clearly not good enough for a diesel on a cold day that hasn't been started for a few days.

Testers give an indication of condition as they cannot be calibrated. The EN spec test is a week long affair of conditioning, discharge and recharge at controlled temps on several test samples. Midtronics deliver the best results but still need some interpretation with them. Using a hand-held whilst the battery is still connected to the vehicle throws further variables into the mix that confuses things further.

The important take-aways here are the voltage relative to CCA indicated and rated values for the ambient temp.

Disconnected battery - Ideally the closer a voltage is to 12.72v, the higher the indicated CCA should be in relation to the rated value. Fully charged and voltage stable at room temp, the indicated CCA should be approx 15 to 20% higher than the label rating on a cycled fresh condition battery.

If it is close to or lower than the rated value, the battery is compromised and heading towards needing replacement. Recharging in this condition just delays the inevitable. The bigger the gap, the worse it is.

7 December, 2021

Save your cash. You don’t need any special greases for the terminals. A thin smear of Vaseline is all that is needed. It’s offered as an optional extra and applied as part of the finishing processes for OEM spec batteries. It’s only a moisture barrier to stop lead oxide crystals forming on the posts before installation into a vehicle.

If a battery is not performing or holding charge after a decent recharge, it’s done and not recoverable. There’s no harm in recharging a new battery. Just make sure AGM is charged with 14.8v limited power source/ AGM program. The other types are less fussy.

30 November, 2021

On 29/11/2021 at 19:25, Wino said:

Munching some food now, but I seem to remember that a member with a rather inappropriate/over-modest username works in the battery industry and has previously commented about the robustness of the cars' systems with regards to 'sorting themselves out' irrespective of coding.

@BigEjit are you able to assist, please?

Completely understand if you don't wish to comment if it might come back at you professionally somehow.

Without knowing for sure how individual OEM’s set up the control systems for monitoring battery performance, it does stand to strong reasoning that a system capable of tracking current flow to and from the battery and map them relative to corresponding measured voltage would at some point adapt to match the change in performance offered by fitting a new battery in place of one at end of life. Voltage drops off quicker in a damaged battery vs new battery for a determined current draw time. Therefore a battery condition map can be generated.

The Banner article certainly supports that. Resetting the BEM would trigger a learn process similar to that when resetting TPMS.

After changing an EFB to AGM in our Fab 3, Stop Start was near instantly available. It was 3 months before I asked the dealership to check and update the settings at annual service and the battery is fine. AGM will take a more aggressive charge and discharge profile over EFB and Flooded so updating the vehicle settings to AGM exploits the additional battery performance without overcharging gaining emissions/fuel savings with extended alternator down time.

As for the OP and a dash full of lights going out after a recharge but coming back a few days later. That’s a strong whiff of battery capacity loss that the system can’t compensate for but recharging gives temporary respite showing all is fine with a decent amount of energy present. Deep discharging and/or excessive heat kills batteries, cold weather exposes the damage.

6 September, 2021

The condition the vehicle was parked up in shouldn't cause the brake lights to illuminate.

So long as something daft, like a set of aftermarket car mats are interfering with the brake pedal or switch up in the pedal box, brake lights shouldn't be on. Its likely a software issue triggered by a bunch of random events coming together. Unless you can recreate the issue on demand, its going to be very difficult to diagnose at the dealership without a data logger present.

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