trickstargee

Looks a good repair that @bigman1976 ! What does a repair like that cost? I'd imagine its a pig to do due to the shape of it.

Great work, looks nice and clean for 19 years!!

Not sure, i just know once experienced something similar, but i had been driving the car a lot - hot day etc....next time i drove the car (at night) it was fine and that apparently was heatsoak. That was a pd130 though. If you drive sensibly does it go into limp mode? Towards end of my ownership i couldn't thrash the car, would have to drive it a bit more sympathetically otherwise it would go into limp mode, but i believe that were sticky turbo vanes - and i think i had fault codes for that, p0234 if i remember rightly? This was different to the above experience in terms of heatsoak though. I'd hoped others would have commented and shared their experiences too.

Not 100% but possible heatsoak - relating to the limp mode at 60/70. When you were overtaking, was it in warm weather and car already warm, been driven for a few hours? Switch engine off and back on and boost it there again? All on assumption that car is a tdi. Unsure on other issues.

The previous owner might have had a dash cam installed and removed on selling but left the wiring in place? Other wiring up their I guess could have been a microphone for a car kit - but i'd have expected like 3.5mm jack at the other end..or maybe related to the sunvisor? Just guessing though so might not help. Maybe worth looking on here to see if any of the connectors match up? (google the part numbers, might help identify - i did have a quick look but the 3pin one looks diff to yours pictured) http://www.oemepc.com/seat/part_single/catalog/se/markt/E/modell/TO/year/2015/drive_standart/742/hg_ug/947/subcategory/947000/part_id/1394628/ I did just guess a year of Toledo though.

Hi there, not a problem I have experienced myself however I dont think just deleting the code with fix your issue. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00576 Have a look at the below thread. This video may help also: Good luck and let us know how you get on.

It wouldnt bother me, if i knew what the damage were before and after and was up front (if obvious). I once travelled 6hrs each way to view a car, looked great in the advert pics, asked the guy loads of questions with replys and pictures...was a 10yr old car so wasnt expecting a mint car, but the guy reversed it out his garage. The offside looked great, got round to nearside and it had a different colour passenger door on it! (Same colour, but bad match). I had to leave it and walk away as instantly you think has it had a smash or do I take the guys word? No pics to back up so didnt risk it.

Fair play to Lukes dad to making him confess...im sure there might even be plenty who might go on to say, deny it, or prove it first! And for Luke to come knock on your door and apologise. I'd imagine his excess might by fairly high anyway and then to proceed after a claim against would make sense for him to settle privately. Glad the outcome will hopefully be a reasonable one and you're not out of pocket and will be as if nothing has happened once repaired. I would say its maybe worth saving the pictures before and after, as a second hand car buyer i'd be trying to look for repair areas etc. If its noticable, at least you can show its just a light crease and not full on rear qtr damage with worse still a bent rear axle etc.

Thats gutting and very annoying! I'd maybe wait for neighbours to come back and see if any damage on their car...and if its obvious, maybe ask how they want to go about it? They maybe happy to pay for repairs if it was an accident, prior to ringing your own insurance company - fear of a non-fault claim pushing premium up - regardless that you werent even in the vehicle when it happened, hear of stories when it happens.

Thanks @bigman1976 i'll have another go with the revised method. Neighbours think im silly when they see me still 'washing' the car 5 hours later (snow, initial wash, de-tar, fallout remove, wash again, then clay etc)

Looks amazing @bigman1976 ! Do you have trouble seeing where you have been with the products? Also, being new to DA/machine polishing - how many pads in total did you use to do above? When i had a go, i was using one pad, it looked pretty gunked up (loaded i think the correct term is?) attempted to clean using a toothbrush but that appeared to be doing nothing! So my next plan was to use maybe couple or three times (4 pea sized blobs, do your passes, repeat again or maybe twice depending on appearance of pad) then into a bucket of water, manually wash trying to get product out, rinse and spin up to get it half dry - then repeat the above? But this adds quite a bit of time in between each changing of pads.

Well just to update - sadly no pictures as they are pointless. Spent a good few hours yesterday:- Snowfoamed (AS Ultra Mousse) Washed (Autowash opposed to usual duet) Attempted to de-tar (Tardis) and fallout remove (Red 7) Rinsed off Clay barred (Bilt Hamber soft clay) Re-washed again Sun shining still, relatively warm and still so attempted to use my DA for the first time on my car. Started with Menzerna Heavy Cut 400 Compound with a medium hex-logic type pad on the bonnet..heres where it goes wrong, the sun still shining strongly i could hardly see where ive been, never mind the swirls i was attempting to correct. Its a silver car...so i gave in! I attempted to seal with that Powerlock mentioned above with a soft pad...but again couldnt see where i'd been! So thats that packed away until another day when i can sort a garage out and work under lighting instead.

I'll see how the weather treats me 🤣

Ive just ordered some Menzerna Power Lock Ultimate Protection - i know im sounding quite sad staying with the brand, ive got some Tardis coming as well so hopefully i'll have some pictures to add to this thread soon. I know its a manufacturers video so of course will look good and easy to use...will let you know how i get on! Would people advise going against just doing a section at a time (with weeks apart) or try and get the whole car in one hit? Might struggle for time thats all.

I could have got master and slave mixed up in my post above. Had similar issue with passat except no juddering or grinding noise - luckily it was the cheaper of the two options to fix. I guess as the car is already at a garage you are reluctant to move again for a second opinion - (potential costs involved re moving of cars/recovery).

Im not a mechanic or familiar too much with this particular engine, so just my disclaimer. If you pump the clutch pedal do you get any resistance? I know on certain vw group cars the clutch pedal can fail if you are lucky (in the sense of cheap repair). Or it could well be the slave cylinder - not sure if its external on this engine? If so its cheaper to repair than if its internal, as that would mean gearbox off to fix and so extra labour time. I understand its at a garage now, if you absolutely have to move it, dont forget to switch start stop OFF as you might burn starter motor out. Experience similar on a passat - and burnt the starter motor out - but completely different engine. Sure some techs/others with more experience may comment.

Did you have a clutch pedal? Any resistance when you put your foot down? I'd be reluctant to fork out for a clutch and flywheel for £1500 if you dont know if any damage to the gearbox...could pay that bill, then they say its £££ for the gearbox?

My experience with Menzerna is my only experience on a DA so cant really compare to anything...it certainly didnt feel very dusty? Re the actual heavy cut compound, I couldnt believe how easy it was to correct, i think it is expected to leave hologram trails and so you have to use the finishing polish as well. That said i never tried using the finishing polish on a medium cutting pad. Would you wax manually by hand afterwards?

Just out of curiousity @nutters_uclan is it just one stage correction? How many pads are you using? My first go resulted in hologramming (Menzerna Heavy cut 400) but another pass with the Super Finish 3500 took them out...not had another go yet, only 2-3weeks ago and not had the right weather since. Looks to have made a massive difference and must feel rewarding when you see the before and after - them two pics above especially the bootlid! Well done! Edit: Just seen Megs 205 is Ultra Finishing Polish so i guess just one stage?

Going back to the original question @mandp (and i know its an oldish thread) one reason for less being interested in detailing could be that it would appear a lot of people tend to lease their cars or PCP them, so hand them back after the 2-3 years for their next one...? Happy to take to local car wash and save time for the sake of a fiver.

Will play more and see how confident i get! Cheers @UndertheRadar

Thats amazing! I do have some stone chips i'd like to approach/practise on first, theory is sand back to bare metal, kurust rust convertor, then build up with paint, feather back with sand paper, final coat then clear coat...but thats very ambitious of me lol. Car has plenty of other battle scars so tempted to just leave them as well. On your wing pic, did you not add any additional paint there? All from wet sanding with 3000?

Thank you, those SPTA pad i would say are are clone of the hex logic ones. Thats one thing i forgot to do re priming the pad. I just went on with 4 pea sized blobs, dab about paint work 2x2 section. Then speed 1 spread out thinly, then upto 5 (maybe too quick, need to play more and get a more understanding of whats happening) and as you say, up and down, left to right, repeated 2-3 times, then off. Buffed off and panel wiped to inspect - then 3 pea sized blobs and onto the next section. Its an expensive hobby this isnt it! My first go, centre tape line is obviously before...left was just the Menzerna 3500 on a black finishing pad, right was 2x passes with compound on orangey colour pad plus final quick pass with the 3500 and black pad. Was so impressed, never realised how easy it is - but obviously harder on intricate areas and in i guess a lot to do with the prep / decon work. As it was just a scrap door, it was leant up against the wall so fairly tricky at first as wobbling about lol Focus looks well!

Gosh I better get buying more pads! I think I need to practise a bit more closer to trim peices, like on the door below the window, get used to machine more before i go full attack on a car. Thanks for the reply @UndertheRadar how many passes on the same pad then? Or would you just use brush to get excess polish then move onto next fresh pad? Will look into maybe a 4" backing plate for the smaller areas. Do you use genuine pads like Chemical guys or ebay specials? The link i used to ZFE stores from John and Forensic detailing has gone (seller no longer exists)...

I've finally got round to playing around with a DA that I bought 18months ago 🤣 Really impressed with the results on a scrap door that I practised on..did three passes then packed up as it looked like it was going to rain. Used Menzerna compound and finishing polish on some SPTA Hex style pads. How far can one get on a single pad? Multiple pads for one car would of course be the best way but surely thats very expensive? Any tips for washing them out? I just ran under warm water and then put it back on DA and span it up to get excess water out...a tooth brush on slow speed didnt seem to do anything? How are you getting on @PaulCanning?