trickstargee

Im guessing the hole around where the clip goes has rusted away and now is bigger than the clip? If so i temporarily fixed mine by using a tin lid - like a tin of beans lid 🤣 and then put it in between the heat shield and the clip like a big washer.

What pipe are you referring to? Pic in profile has a mk1 vRS, you've just posted in mk2 fabia sub-forum and your car per profile is a 197 🤣

Im not 100% sure but as you've identified it's since you've fitted the Amundsen radio, I believe it can be a common issue to result in the battery draining. Plenty of results come up, just search Amundsen battery drain. I think the solution is to upgrade the CAN gateway, dont know how or what is involved as in does it need to be coded afterwards? Take a look here: Hope that helps or at least, point you in right direction.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii/ Sorry I cant help with your problem. Any other warning lights on, random lights/ beeps or just heavy/lack of power steering? @wino was you thinking of the alternator load sensor wire? I was thinking back what it was when i lost power steering, cant remember if it was that or not, but maybe irrelevant if mk2 anyway.

Sorry I cant help you there, I've an external door handle from off-side rear. You maybe better off looking for a complete door card but not sure if that will solve your issue.

Front, rear? If rear, off-side, near-side? Interior, exterior?

Depends what your aim and budget is? Are you wanting to go down the route of bigger turbo or are you planning on just a remap? Decide your budget/plan (i.e. just a map or engine mods as well) and im sure people can recommend from there or at least point in right direction.

I once experienced similar, turned out it was the nut on the gear selector above the gearbox had become loose so the teeth of the selector couldnt bite/grip the pin. The teeth had worn themselves down so even when tightened up, left and right movements of the gearstick were sloppy. You might be able to get away with just tightening the bolt. EDIT: Sorry, miss-red your issue is stiff not sloppy.

Sure no problem at all. Will PM you.

Sorry, i think what i wrote above re coding is only for the remote locking and unlocking of doors, not the actual starting of the car.

Local locksmith (like house keys) managed to cut me one, but its just a key to physically open and close the door (if the original key had managed to lock itself in the car - dodgy door switches etc). Think you need to identify the frequency of existing key if you want to code it as a second key to be able to start the car, but need SKC code, retrievable through Vagtacho i think, but then coded through VCDS. Think there are people who can do them for about 70-100ish? Think there used to be a guy on the forums, cant remember his name, something like army or action man i think, dont know if they still do though.

Is this the one that fills the gap from existing headunit when putting in after market radio in? If so, I'm sure I have.

Bet you caught a few off guard on track! Hopefully nothing major when you finally find the fault !

I had this where the switches were playing up. Obviously needed to lock the car up so inserted key in the keyhole of the door, locked it and keep key turned the same way as lock and windows should go up.

Next time this is out at on track, i'll come spectate