coldplug

And more fun this time on mountain Velebit

Donuts :)

Wino, probably yes. I just wake up and don't function at full speed yet :coffee:

More pressure in tyre = less heating during driving. However, when you inflating the tyre, the more you increase pressure, temperature will increase with it also. It comes from pressure law that states that pressure divided by temperature equals constant value. So, when you inflate tyre, it warms up. But, it will eventually cool down right to the environment temperature after you stop inflating it, as fast as in several hours, if vehicle is not moving and is in shade, you will not be able to detect any temperature difference from air within the tyre and outside of it, regardless of how much you inflated it. Now when vehicle starts to move, tyres are going to warm up because of different reasons. One of reason is friction between tyre surface and road that creates heat. That isn't dependent on tyre pressure much, if at all. But there is another factor that warms tyre up. It is tyre flexion that revs around tyre and creates friction forces within rubber itself. Now, the LESS pressure in tyre is, flexion will be bigger and friction forces between molecules of rubber will increase, so the heat produced will increase also. This means that less pressure in tyre leads to more heating during driving, especially on highway speeds. And vice versa. For example, this is the only reason why offroad drivers stop the vehicle and reinflate tyres after airing them down for offroad, after they come back to the road. If they are not able to reinflate tyres for some reason, they must drive very slowly on road in order to not overheat and damage the tyres.

In fact when I look closer to the issue, it seems to me that the mentioned piece of software could actually be inside file that flashing software would download. In that case diff tool will register change even if no fueling/map change is performed. If that is true then only detailed look into map itself could reveal if changes to mapping (and thus performance) is done. I believe somebody will do it eventually, but for now I can't find anything such on Internet.

Well, not in a map itself possibly. It is hard to know what they will do when they don't want to tell anything - don't understand that policy but... If they only delete that cheating piece of code then it should not require reuploading new map. It is different stuff. If map is changed then fueling is changed and performance must change somehow, regardless they say it doesn't.

Actually very easy if one wants to know only if there is a change, by just comparing two files together, by performing any diff tool on two files, for example: http://winmerge.org/?lang=en Of course if you want to know what is actually changed, then knowledge of remapping will be required: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXpuH1y6t8Y6q9kP6ope8VA/playlists

Hi, VCDS won't be of much help to determine if remapping is done. You need flashing software to download original map, save it to your computer, then after "fix" repeat process and see if something is different in map file. If it is, you can reinstall your older saved map if you wish. Here you are quick example if you want to play with it:

Hello, Sure narrower tyres are better if you intend to sink down to the bottom of the snow and grip the road actually. It is just fine for small snow depth. But if snow depth is larger than your ground clearance then you basically can't reach the road with tyre and your front bumper start to plow the snow in front of the car which makes you stuck easy. Then it is better to not sink deep and stay as high as possible to avoid pushing too much snow with your bumper... In that case wider tyres are better choice.. I hope it makes sense See here how I actually "float" above snow even if it is much deeper than ground clearence here: Yes it was pretty hard packed so it wasn't too difficult to stay above it, but still, narrower tyres would sink much deeper and car would stuck with front bumper more easy.

I use same pressure as summer tyres. However, if I get into very deep snow, I like to lower pressure 30%, so that tyre gets little bit wider at the bottom, so it sinks into snow less deep.

Thank you much!

Hello, I crashed plastic transparent part of wing mirror (that little protruding element for turn signal). Rest of mirror is tottaly fine. Can that be replaced only or I will have to replace whole mirror if want to fix that? Thx

Playing again little bit

See here:

Please note that prolonged and hard use of EDL "locking" can significantly overheat breaking discs and they can be damaged. When you activate OffRoad button and push vehicle hard into snow or similar slippy surface, EDL starts to break really hard to keep wheels rotating at same speed (you will clearly feel shaking - i will upload unstabilized part of that moment when I'm entering ~40cm deep snow from plowed road, you will see shaking on camera because breaks are pulsing the faster rotating wheels). Without OffRoad mode enabled, EDL is much less violent.

This one is view from cocpit from that climb:

From technical description 4th and 5th generation should provide pretty much the same performance. Both are predictive, which means that rear wheels are engaged usually before front wheels slip which is good in comparision to old generations that had to slip front wheels to start powering rears. But 5th gen is simpler, cheaper and weights less than 4th gen unit.

If you have snow only rarely, I would say that one of biggest advantages of having winter tyre during colder months is to prevent big danger in possible situations of sudden ice on road, especially when driving during night, when this possibility is bigger and it is harder to visually detect such condition. Ice can form anytime if temperature is below freezing, when water is spilled to the road, or condensed from air, especially near rivers, lakes and so on... Summer tyre on such ice patches could lead to serious trouble. Even winter tyre will have problem but you have much better chances to stay in control of car if you suddenly encounter ice on road. In low temperatures summer tyre does become harder and lose some grip power, but if road is clear that isn't a big problem, there is still big safety margin, but if summer tyre gets on ice patch then trouble is very probable.

That's it Problem solved I'll post here pictures when things are done. Thanks all!

Fantastic! Almost what I had in mind! Thanks!

Yes that was one of my thoughts and really very good one! But rest of back space will need ~25cm lift to match that level, another hard box there might not be best idea, but maybe.. in fact all that can go even higher without sacrifice of space, then all created "box space" can be used for storing various stuff needed for trip. Looks like some wood working in next months

I went again in garage and made new measurements. Well, if both front seats are slided all the way forward, backrests angled all the way forward and seats lifted all the way up, then there is pretty much big space behind (of course with rear seats left at home). The problem is central vents console (driver's armrest), BUT, if I manage to lift up rear seats/boot floor ~25cm and then fill legs space with something ~50cm high, then I would get whole floor full vehicle width and length of ~190cm that will be in level with central armrest! That would make the space very spacious and comfortable even for two persons, with heads forward and legs toward boot door. Then over all that, double sized inflatable mattress (190x140 cm) will fit perfectly! Now the question is, how to lift floor ~25cm... I'm sure I will come up with something clever.... ideas are welcome!

This looks like good idea. I also forgot to add, probably someone will mention SwissRoom or something like that but no I don't need such comfort level neither I want to pay that much money so I search for simple solution and cutting foam mattress to size could be one of solutions.

I did few nights in Yeti when wildcamping, to avoid setting up tent and it was just OK. Now, I have a plan to make sleeping in Yeti as comfortable as possible. When all rear seats are removed, there is 100cm (39") of available width and 150cm (59") of length from back of boot door to the central rear vents console. When front seats are moved all the way forward, then full length is ~180cm (70") but because central vents console is always there that is not usable over whole width. Now that is enough for me to sleep fully streched, at least on diagonal position and also legs can go under front seat easy when it is also lifted to upmost position. What I search now is some kind of mattress that will provide enough softness and thermal insulation from car's bottom. The best idea I found is self inflating camping mattress like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultrasport-Self-Inflating-Mat-10cm/dp/B00639PSCM However, this seem to be problem to find in suitable dimension that will fit into available space. Does anybody have better idea? Any help will be welcome!

Stelvio Pass, Italy