SaxophoneMn

It's fine for me, but it the leather cracked, has anyone tried to replace the armrest?

I did something similar as well, changed the bolt type. The other issue was that the other side of the door card broke a few of the clips permanently, and as such I added another screw from the panel into the door itself.

I have a similar problem, you have a refrigerant leak. The air is colder by the drive because it's closer to the compressor, but the air warms up as it get to the other vents.

A bit over $100 to get reprogrammed, and it wasn't the issue.

I changed my control unit in my 2017 Kodiaq as shown in the picture. My colleague and I are trying to figure out how to program it with a diagnostic tool. He has both VCSD and VAG CAN Pro. Can someone please explain which program will be able to do the program configuration? Can the process for the reset be explained in detail, the other places we saw instruction didn't work. Many Thanks

I got the new control unit, the physical installation seems fairly straight forward, from what I see I'm supposed to disconnect the battery? Can any ODB tester do the reset of the control unit.

Wow thanks, that's impressive. Was there an explanation of the part change?

I entered my car information here - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/headlight-insert-10533/skoda/kodiaq/kodiaq-ns7/123934-2-0-tdi?criteria[574][]=000&criteria[100][]=R But I see that it was without the VIN - TMBJJ9NS6H8029984 Is this a replaceable part on mine as well? I'm beginning to think it's the problem with the LED tube, since it works, but is rather weak.

TMBJJ9NS6H8029984 I'm beginning to think the issue may just be the LED controller, where would I be able to get the parts separately. Because other systems are suggesting that my Kodiaq is so old that the parts are different from the rest of the 2017 models. Cheers.

When I entered my chassis number the E part was supposed to fit. :-(

I went to have the assembly installed and they wouldn't do it, because the metal box that is attached to the assembly shown in the attached picture wasn't on the lamp. Does this make sense? The issue on the lamp is that the LED strip barely works. And at the same time part of it broke during shipping.

Thanks everyone for the replies 🙂

Hi All; I discovered after only owning a diesel for around 8 years, that the jump starting needs of a diesel are much higher than a petrol engine. Since none of my neighbors, nor many small organizations that jumps start cars have this ability, I wanted to know for a 2 liter TDI what battery capacity I would need for a portable booster system? All I know is the car uses a 60Ah battery from what I recall. Cheers, B

I was able to order on eBay and have it shipped to Israel for around 200 Euros and 40 Euros in customs. Waiting for the part to arrive according to the install manuals I found here it seems to require a trip to the garage.

When I put in my VIN it implies the newer parts fit, will give it a shot, thanks.

I would hope that is the case, because I see a used one on ebay for 200 euros.

I have a 2017 Kodiaq with the TDI 2.0 L FWD Style model which has an LED assembly for the headlights. I have noticed that the surrounding LED border is very weak for the daylight running light and turn signal. This part seems to no longer be made, and I haven't gotten a straight answer as to whether a newer part would work. This part currently costs over 1500 Euros locally, and it seems to be a known faulty part. The part number is 566.941.016.C it looks like the newer ones are using 566.941.016.E Has anyone else done this post warranty? Thanks for any insight

Neat, nice to know that there are newer solutions to deal with the all inclusive head unit that runs all the car settings as well.

The break out of the speaker wire to RCA wouldn't cause a signal loss from the middle. In that case running a small amp powered off of the rear power supply is fine. If I take the actual speaker wires out of the doors and run them into to 6x9s they wouldn't need an amp and would loud enough considering the rear speakers are pushing air into the back passengers knees.

Yes, I rewired (gutted all of the wires, replaced all speakers except window sails, changed the high pass on the window sails, added 2 amps, and a subwoofer) my 2001 Chrysler and I also installed an under the dashboard amp in my SEAT Toledo to add a subwoofer.

What one typically does is you split the signal from a set a speakers to an RCA output, and from there the essentially you just have a simple RCA input to device which now of days can even be battery powered. But now you're getting me to think to undo the back door speakers and reroute the wires further back into the car and just have them attached to two enclose speaker boxes, and adjust balance/fade accordingly.

Hi All; My kids complain that they have trouble hearing the music in the third row of car. I figured I could get two 6x9 boxes to put by their feet to give them a little something extra. Powering seems easy from the many options in the car. The only issue is how to tap into the speaker signal. Anyone have any ideas?