AussieAnth

The sunroof mesh has become stuck in my 2011 Superb, preventing the mesh mechanism from fully closing. It gets 80% closed then hits resistance from the stuck mesh and retracts a bit. The mesh has now come out of the rail on one side and has damage. Are there any guides on replacing the mesh? Youtube hasn't shown me anything good. Any advice on whether I can just replace the mesh roll , or do I need to install a new cover assembly unit. I've found both on AliExpress for a good price. The Mesh roll listing has some grainy black & white photos & instructions, but they don't fill me with confidence. Any advice would be appreciated. Full assembly https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000180443244.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4a358c16K8oMLF&algo_pvid=7d0cb22e-166e-43d5-9415-c1c0ca9595ba&algo_exp_id=7d0cb22e-166e-43d5-9415-c1c0ca9595ba-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"10000000656674246"} Mesh roll only https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001156264303.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4a358c16K8oMLF&algo_pvid=7d0cb22e-166e-43d5-9415-c1c0ca9595ba&algo_exp_id=7d0cb22e-166e-43d5-9415-c1c0ca9595ba-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"10000014926323754"}

Has anyone seen instructions on how to resolve the leak where water collects inside and around the pollen filter case? I've seen discussion about * Cleaning out leaves inside the wheel arch at the bottom (done) * Cleaning up leaves on the scuttle plate (done) * Checking for leaks around the sunroof....(done...I poured about 2-3 litres of water around the front of the sunroof while it was open, and watched it drain freely into the front door jams without delay or slow flow, which indicates the drain tubes are not kinked or blocked. No water ran into the passenger foot well. * Removing the scuttle plate below the windscreen to access whats underneath, or removing the front left wheel & wheel arch cover to access from underneath.....but then what? Do you silicone around some join or hose or something? I poured about 4 litres down the windscreen and then found some small amounts coming into the passenger footwell. Problem seems worse when parking facing up a hill/driveway. Would really appreciate some direction on what to seal or fix behind the passenger dash to stop the leak.

Thanks mate. I've found a few posts relating to similar issues, but nobody has documented the fix. If I get the scuttle plate off below the windscreen, does it become a lot more obvious? Happy to tackle it that way. I also have to swap out rotors & pads, so maybe I'll start removing the passenger wheel trim first. I did see one post (see below) where someone who also parks on an incline) found an empty threaded hole under the plate, and was even able to fill it with silicone without removing the plate completely. This fixed his issue.

I'm not sure Wino. Its serviced by an independent VAG specialist, and they place the usual reminder sticker with the next interval on it. Is there an easy way to find out?

My Oil Temp readout is always blank, with "-- " instead of a number. My mechanic told me it only reads a temp when it gets too hot / or gets over a certain threshold. I seem to remember my previous Superb had a temp there (might be mistaken). Should I see something at regular driving temps? I've also ran quite low on oil on the dipstick, but never had a warning come on. Was using heaps of oil until I replaced the Positive Crankcase Ventilation filter. Again the mechanic said the dipstick doesn't go that deep into the sump, and there's a big reservoir of oil remaining even if the dipstick is past the low point. Was considering replacing the oil sensor under the engine but wanted advice first

I have a 2011 Superb wagon with water coming into the passenger side footwell only. Looking for more info on how to resolve it. My wife recently noticed water splashed in small amounts on her feet while I was driving. There had been recent rain but we've also had the air-con on a lot lately. The carpet has been noticeably wet, but not fully saturated like some of the other reports. I'm 80% confident its rain getting in from a drainage issue starting from below the windscreen, NOT the well documented sunroof leak issue. I've poured about 1 litre total around the front of the sunroof trim, and watched it drain freely to the exit drain in the door jams. I've also ran air-con on full for half an hour while stationary, and found no condensation build up anywhere, although this is not completely ruled out. After removing the foam cover & 2 hand screens below the glovebox, water seems to come in around the middle of the footwell, not from the side closest to the door or transmission tunnel. I've found the lower 3rd of the cabin filter quite wet, but I've also seen water drip down behind the filter box as well. I do not have water in the drivers side, any of the rear footwells, or the boot/spare wheel area. After testing by pouring several litres of water down the entire width of the windscreen, water seems to freely drain down the 4 holes in the plastic scuttle plate below the windscreen, and pours freely onto the road with little delay, but this doesn't mean some of its collecting down further and seeping into the cabin. The main questions are: 1) where is it likely collecting & penetrating the cabin? 2) how to I resolve it? I'm keen to remove the plate below the windscreen, and see how to do it, but not until I have some good instructions on what to do from there. I've read about 5 other threads about various water ingress, but most of them revolve around the sunroof, or don't provide much info on how to resolve the issue.

My 118tsi engine has a timing chain, not a belt. Sorry, I clearly should have included that info!

I've just been quoted over $1600 AUD to replace a leaking water pump on the 2011 Superb Elegance, with 105,000kms. Apparently has signs of leaking coolant from the pump. I can get a quality water pump for $200-300, and am willing to do it myself. Has anyone done it themselves, or have any documentation? Can't find much online. I have a flat garage, tools, jacks, ramps, etc, and am fairly mechanically minded, but won't risk ruining the engine if its quite complicated or requires specialist tools. Thanks

I have 3 child seats in the rear, and I want to disable the rear seat heaters. My 5 year old in the middle keeps kicking the buttons on, despite me covering the panel with foam rubber & a cover. I have a Ross Tech VAG OBDII tool & software, but haven't found a way to disable them yet. I heard there are connectors somewhere under the rear seats you can disconnect. Wondering if a fuse will disable only the rears?

yes, I'm getting it checked soon. Dealer said they are having to fix about 1 in 4 of Superbs.

I had the same on m 2011 Superb wagon 118 tsi. Bought a replacement Positive Crankcase Ventilation filter unit from AliExpress for under $50, fit it in 15min, and the problem almost went entirely away. I did so because I had read that the membrane in the PCV's is prone to tearing after a few years, and it would explain my heavy oil use. Bonus benefit and easy fix, as it shifts really crisp now for a 9 year old DSG.

Hi All, I'm a 2011 Superb TS118 owner in Australia. Have noticed some petrol stations are now supplying E10 RON 94 fuel, as their new "middle" option. Standard RON 91 and Super Premium RON 98 are the other options. My 2011 TS118 Superb states it needs RON 95. I've run about 2 tanks of this E10 94 through it so far with no noticeable issues, but I'm concerned more about long term damage. Can't find any info online (other than a similar question in the Fabia section here), and my manual was written before this fuel was available down in Oz. Anyone know if this is a suitable long term fuel for my Superb?

New plugs in and it started first try. Old plugs were black and coated. I guess the upper engine cleaner cleared out some crap as intended. Drove really well but no doubt the new plugs helped.

I bought and used a can of LiquiMoly Upper Engine Cleaner tonight while doing some maintenance on my 2012 TS118 Superb with 79,000kms. I separated the air intake hose after the MAF sensor, sprayed half the can in, let it sit for a couple of minutes, started it and let it run while i sprayed the rest of it in. It ran rough and blew white smoke as expected then idled smooth for a few minutes. Went to drive off and got about 1km from home and it stalled. It just won't spark and ignite by the sound of it. Mechanic came out and tried a few things and his best guess is the plugs have fouled from the cleaning. We tried to start it many times and it coughs but never starts. I was going to remove and clean all plugs tomorrow. Any suggestions?

Got it sorted in the end. They replaced the lock mechanism and button relase at the dealer also, and adjusted the lock pin on the bumper section and several rubber pads that cusion the tailgate as it comes down. I suspect the alignment of the lock pin was the issue, leaving the lock under pressure when closed, and prone to unlock when external movement from speed humps and closing doors was detected.