shivadow
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Posts posted by shivadow
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I agree with kandy. Scrap it. Too many people mess you around when you advertise it. "too far" or they expect a pristine car for buttons, are the main excuses.
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I have daybreakers in mine but be careful if you have xenons and auto levelling lights because anything but the stock unit seems to break that feature.
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Due to the lack of abundance in help and knowledge on all fronts, not being able find a single mechanic that has a clue what a car is, it's up for sale. No sale = scrapped.
Ebay Item number:281853591619.
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Nope didn't want to chance it not working while i needed it. It did offer to update but as i only had the cable for 5 minutes any readout is better than none. I'll update and run it again but i doubt the vcds version makes a difference seeing as the car is so old.
Update : so i updated to 15.7 and it needs the cable eeprom updating to 1.94. Currently my cable is 1.93 and fails to update rendering the app useless.
All this hassle with some crappy old skoda and i plan on getting an rs6.. I must be touched in the head.
But enough about that. Can that error for vehicle speed sensor be causing my issues?
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Well, the plot thickens..
Car has been running great for its usual 200 miles then all of a sudden out of the blue the ba****d starts hunting for revs for no reason. Only dropping, not gaining revs. As in it wont rev over idling on its own but will try to die and save itself.
There is no misfire, no smell of petrol at the exhaust, not lumpy running.
So i stamp on the pedal and rev it up to 6k for about 10 seconds, drop it to 3k for ten seconds and let off completely. Car idles normal again. Hunting stopped.
This is very puzzling now.
I have vcds and a cable. No dtcs stored past or present relating to the engine. I have a climatronic issue, airbag voltage issue and drivers door lock and the door behind that (right hand side).
At this point my laptop run out of power so i had to stop until later. This is what I have so far..
Tuesday,10,November,2015,13:39:46:33490
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.3.0
Data version: 20140905
VIN: TMBSL21U4xxxxxxxx License Plate: NA02NWP
Mileage: 155880km-96863mi Repair Order:
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Chassis Type: 1U (1U - Skoda Octavia (1997 > 2011))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 56 76
VIN: TMBSL21U4xxxxxxxx Mileage: 155880km/96859miles
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AUM.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 SG
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0010
Coding: 10700
Shop #: WSC 20028
VCID: 75E7978F4F43E4B6B8B-5000
TMBSL21U4xxxxxxxx SKZ7Z0A1xxxxxx
1 Fault Found:
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1
P0420 - 35-00 - Efficiency Below Threshold
Readiness: 0000 0000
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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ESP-A.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 F
Component: ESP ALLRAD MK60 0104
Coding: 0023174
Shop #: WSC 31480 000 00000
VCID: 2D577FEFB793EC7600B-5000
No fault code found.
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Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1Ux-907-044.lbl
Part No: 1U1 907 044 A
Component: CLIMATRONIC C 2.0.0
Coding: 11000
Shop #: WSC 31480
VCID: 3069669BF0A1819E2BD-5072
2 Faults Found:
00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)
35-00 - -
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
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Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605
Component: 0L AIRBAG VW51 0B 0004
Coding: 12364
Shop #: WSC 31480
VCID: E1CF53DF6BCBF816743-5000
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
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Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1U0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 1U0 920 911 B
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V07
Coding: 23412
Shop #: WSC 25043
VCID: 2E5578E3EA95976E391-5000
TMBSL21U4xxxxxxxx SKZ7Z0A1xxxxxx
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications
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Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 31480
VCID: F0E9269BB021419EEBD-5000
1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications
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Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
Part No: 02D 900 554 C
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0010
VCID: 204996DBA041311EBBD-4A9C
No fault code found.
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Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 B
Component: 3Y Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00259
Shop #: WSC 31480
VCID: 3665508312C5AFAE711-4A9C
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1U6959802D
Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1U6959801D
Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1U0959811D
Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0002
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1U0959812D
Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0004
2 Faults Found:
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Readiness Status: 0000 0000
Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Passed
Oxygen Sensor Heating: Passed
Oxygen Sensor(s): Passed
Air Conditioning: Passed
Seconday Air Injection: Passed
Evaporative Emissions: Passed
Catalyst Heating: Passed
Catalytic Converter(s): Passed
If anyone in the Liverpool area needs a scan just let me know and we will arrange something. I'll scan and send the results to an email of your choice, dtcs will only be cleared at request. Please note that it'll be £20 cash for leccy and time as you'll be travelling to me.
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So have you replaced the cts? Does it keep throwing the code or has it solved it?.
Hopefully solved.
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Could it be a popped bulb in the binacle?.
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I used to use tesco fuel then moved to shell vpower but the symptoms got worse. The fuel isn't the issue as such, "fuel varnishing" was probably the issue as this is day 3 of faultless starts.
The buildup of crud from fuel is a byproduct of fuel itself. I must stress that the active ingredients in the product i used were acetone and xylene. There are products out there that don't contain those chemicals so choose wisely.
All fuels sold in this country are to an iso standard so "bad fuel" is just a myth that started when tesco tried to skimp on profits about 10 years ago and sold a bad batch of mechanical horse feed which poisoned everones horses. I think that turned out to be a fault with fuel filters in the long run.. Anyway, I digress..
Just try it and if you have an obd2 scanner see what the codes are and watch your fuel trims!.
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The horizontal handle on the side of the seat.. Pump it down until it wont no more then move the entire seat all the way back.
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Ok, so i gave you a leg up and you brushed it aside like it was nothing. Fair play.
Just remember that I'm the one who recently solved this error code.
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Just under 97k and it was called "drive clean". Green and silver metal bottle. It still hasnt blipped since. I am gobsmacked by the difference it has made.
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That could be ignition, cluster or climatronic or the wiring in between. Check the fuses and relays. If no joy check the connections for loose plugs, corroded pins, bad wiring etc.
If the instrument gauges are all working fine then maybe a fault with the climatronic system.
My fan runs for a short while after long runs and turns off after a few minutes.
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i have that system but i have daybreaker bulbs fitted and the auto levelling no longer works.. You are correct though!. I haven't tried going bat to xenon yet but will look into it first!.On our L&K, with oem xenons, the outer is a projector fog, next is the dipped xenon projector, then innermost is the normal main beam. As far as I know, if oem xenons are not fitted, the outer is a projector fog, then there is a larger combined dipped/main.
I understand it is a pita to fit the oem xenon lamps to cars that did not have xenons fitted in the factory; the wiring loom is different, and the system includes level sensors mounted on front and rear suspension. Not sure if there are other differences as well.
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I'm on a mad spree of telling everyone to try a fuel system cleaner and see if it fixes anything. "Drive clean" is what i used and all seems good. See my "wierd firing when hot" thread.
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Main lights and dipped are the big inner ones. Fog lights are the outer ones. Side lights the tiny ones.
If you get vcds and a cable you can change them over, amongst many other things!.
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Honestly it can't do any harm. That way you'll know for sure that all the fuel system is clean. Mine is behaving for a change!.
I used "drive clean". Green and silver bottle. Wish I'd have tried it sooner as buying an ecu proved to be a pain and now i dont even need it.
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Run a fuel additive through it. Sounds mad but it has made real progress with mine although im still testing it..
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Run fuel additive through it and see what happens. My injectors were clogged (i think, still testing).
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Could it be the key fob?
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Try fuel additive. Seriously. Best 13 quid ive spent on this pile..
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Well it dawned on me that if I'm going to check the injectors what harm can a can of fuel system cleaner do..
Run it till hot, added an entire can of "clean drive" fuel additive to just under half a tank of choo choo juice and run it for 10 minutes at idle then 10miles. ltft is now permanently 0.0 and stft is now +0.8/-0.8 and fluctuating rarely except when throttle is applied.
DBW system now communicates at the correct angles, it no longer wants to jump to 1.5krpm immediately.
Idle is smooth, end of. Not just smoother but it seems to be sorted.
Fuel usage is now reasonably good.
Engine starts and runs faster and quieter.
Theory behind this..
When the engine is switched off the petrol in the end of the injector evaporates instead of burning. This leaves an oily/waxy residue that builds up over time. A good fuel additive with acetone and xylene (both potent paint and skin strippers) should help dissolve the oily/waxy residue and burn it off in the cylinder.
In my case I believe that the injectors were half clogged, they have 5 nozzles each, and the fuel was being pressurised within the injector because of the blockage and then spurting out late and missing the spark, explaining the fuel rich exhaust gasses. The knock on effect is the sensors telling the engine something isn't right so it adjusts stft until out of range which in turn activates ltft, which is not needed and causes over fuelling.
My test phase is not complete yet but anyone who is experiencing firing issues should try fuel additive first.
You're welcome...
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So.. This engine is aum yet on the reg looking for parts its an arx.
It does this least when hot but when it does do it hot its more severe and stalls the engine. Always hunting revs even when holding throttle at 1k (throttle response is over active likes to go straight to 1.5k, no messing about.
Battery power is 13.5-13.9 volts. Bottom end of the recommended but should be ok as all electricals are off when running.
Stft fluctuates mostly +, sometimes double figures, but has suddenly gone major - and riched itself to stall. + Indicates leaning out, vacuum leak or injectors, lack of fuel. Ratio fluctuates 14.6.1 - 14.9.1 indicating fuel trim working to compensate?.. Makes sense.. But why?.
LTFT, doesn't budge from 0.8. No matter what. Even after revving at 3k for 10 mins or so.
Vac leak test around engine bay with carefully planned butane enrichment with no resulting change to condition. Quite sure vac is tight. Vac at turbo is a healthy -11/11.5. No problems spooling.
Injectors, I've tried the "long screwdriver" method to check for ticking but cant hear sod all. Maybe I'm going deaf. The plastic collars around them seem to have oil on them but cannot tell yet if it's actually from the collars. From what I've read it's normal. No smells of fuel. Fuel pressure seems good.
Ecu, as we know this is a common issue on all cars that manufacturers decided to put electronic masterpieces under a poor mans waterfall. The windcreen. Maybe water ingress has made the ecu angry and a replacement may be necessary. Check engine light appears and disappears at whim, no codes stored, cel resets itself if turned off then on, losing codes?. Last codes were tps and adaption (limp mode). Cleared itself.
Suspect injector open/close issue. Could be an egomanic ecu.
Any thoughts?
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P1296 17704 Powertrain Cooling Malfunction.
Most times it's coolant temperature sensor and/or thermostat but not always the cause. I am currently investigating my p1296. Suspected ecu, throttle body/sensor, injectors, crankcase breather.
I have a new cts and thermostat but still get the code. Engine runs ok then bad then ok again, rinse and repeat.
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Mine does it but mine is running rough. Changing the ecu. Suspected ecu, throttle body/sensor and crank breather, injectors (over fuelling).
Rough running is more likely than a bush.
ecu immo will this work?
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted · Edited by shivadow
Not true unless you have the ecu pin code from old and new.
Ecu, upper steering column, binacle and drivers door lock need to be swapped if no pin codes. You'll probably end up with abs and airbag codes though like mine did.