shivadow
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Posts posted by shivadow
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Karbar2 garston Liverpool.
Just conked out on the 62 in Manchester and had to be towed home.
Fuming.
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Ok, thanks for the confirmation yellowcar, i appreciate that a lot.
New camshaft position sensor and although the engine seems to run, stop and start stronger than ever before the issue still persists.
She still doesn't like to fire when hot and tends to hunt a bit for a few seconds and then settles nicely. Stop and start causes hesitation to fire. It has done it once when cold too before the camshaft sensor was changed (actually on the morning it went in) so it isn't heat or fuel vapour related.
It was well worth changing the camshaft position sensor as it HAS made a difference but it hasn't solved the problem.. Any more ideas?.
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I once knew of a rover 200 turbo that did this and it turned out to be overboosting and hitting the fuel defender due to home made boost contoller vacuum piping and bypassing the boost return line (recirculation valve). It was causing it to fuel defend and lean out. After that a positive pressure hose exploded and caused a runaway. Related... Maybe, maybe not.
You should consider taking it to someone with vcds as that will identify any faulty sensors and parts in seconds.
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You'd be better changing the title of the thread. It's a bit misleading. Stock valves shouldn't be too expensive. Try a scrap yard if you're strapped for cash.
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I think it affects both motors because left is master and right is slave. What is done to left is copied by the right..
Seriously, you must have the automatic lights. Investigate the xenon lamps that come with the car from factory.
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Roger that!. Going to order a new one and fit it anyway. I know for a fact that the sensors I haven't replaced are all factory. On approach to 100k miles it'd be wise to have it done anyway as it does seem similar. I'll probably get the mechanic to do it and get a scan done too.
Not checked for codes.. I don't want to upset her. She's narky.
What did it cost you to buy?.
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Exactly that. I have an intermittent starting issue when hot where it'll stay on the crank longer, struggle to fire, splutter up to 1k rpm and settle after about a minute at the regular 800 ish rpm and be as happy as larry all day long until it decides, maybe the next crank maybe the next week, to do it again.
Rinse and repeat.
All new coilpacks, new intake gasket, new platinum spark plugs, new temp sensor, new thermostat, new battery, recent MAF recalibration and tested working well and it has a diet of shell fuelsave and the occasional treat of shell v+nitro
I noticed my carbon canister is ticking loudly from the plug on the top, is this normal?.
Mechanic suggests vapour settling in the injectors. Anyone had this issue and solved it?.
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Vapour settling in the injector?. Mine has a similar issue where it struggles to crank when hot, but only occasionally. It WILL start but just takes a tad longer to fire on cranking than the immediate fire when cold.
Always done it but never got to the bottom of it. On asking my regular mechanic he suggested vapour settling.
I also noticed that starting and stopping the engine with the clutch disengaged makes the problem more common. How about you?.
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Baffled by this myself. I'm thinking the xenon lights may be part of it or my motors have failed..
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If its the same centre console as the 4x4 petrol try manipulating the plastic between the ashtray and gearstick to pin the cover closed. Mine is stuck down by it and i have to fettle with it to get it to open but it won't stay open..
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Honestly don't worry about those plastic bits. They are only for show and seeing as no-one sees inside the engine bay, and when anyone does they'll most probably need to be removed for work, so I just leave mine off. Even the little crappy bit under the fuel rail, gone.
I'll replace them if i sell the car but whats the point in worrying..
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I thought if you get noises like that at the wheel it'd be the bearings. When my driveshaft went it was clicking in 1st and 2nd gears as you engaged the clutch..
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Personally I'd take it to a garage and get all the work done but not everyone can afford to.. Especially when messing with brake systems. Id rather have a comeback if anything failed, provided that i lived to tell the tale..
If the metal brake pipe is leaking leave it to a pro as it'll need that section replacing and you probably dont have a pipe flarer and will end up using compression fittings and thats no good.
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Definitely using the correct wheel.. Although a valid suggestion!.
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Both an more. Cts, thermostat and maf recalibration. Misfires solved. Intake gasket got swallowed too but that was way before the misfires. Check the thermostat o ring is seated correctly too.
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I have daybreakers in mine so i have no clue what should have been there..
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In the destruction book it says that if your car was manufactured with xenon lights it auto levels the lights depending on the pitch of the car. However it also states that you can manually adjust them in "dipped" mode.
Mine has the same issue and I cannot adjust in dipped mode either so it must be an auto thing. Checked fuses but no terminals in port 20 so that rules that out.
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Anti roll bar bushes. Measure how thick the bar is with a spanner and get polyurethane bushes for about £30 a pair and replace the bush on both sides, discarding the plastic sleeve of the old one. A quick soak with wd40 and a drive out to bed them in nicely.
You cant get the plastic sleeves for oem bushes so if the sleeves are shot they'll keep slipping out and the knock comes back.
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The car shouldn't take that long to heat up. 18 miles.. Too long. Mine has just had all that done and gets warm in about 2 miles, driving with minimal load. A mile if i stamp my hoof on the pedal..
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i got mine from awesome gti in cadishead by manchester/warrington. Cost 30 quid. Make sure you get anti roll bar D bushes and measure the width of the bar with an open end spanner or something. Mine was 19mm.Thanks for that, any preffered supplier?
ta Ray
It'd be worth ringing ahead to make sure they have yours in stock.
Set the gps for the talk talk building at the end of seimens road (sounds like a bad plot for a porno)..
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You wont find out until you replace the switch but yes they can be related.
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Jack and spin each wheel to make sure they all freely spin. Sounds like a stuck brake pad to me..
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Oh, and make sure the thermostat inner o ring is seated properly against the block. They slip out at install if not done correctly!. Fyi- all thermostats are the same genuine or not and very likely to NOT be at fault unless you use tap water in your cooling system (very stupid idea to do so!!).
Even though maf isn't mentioned by obd i bet my left testicle its the problem.
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17704 (p1296) change temp sensor and thermostat. Most likely MAF sensor faulty, bad wiring, corroded contacts at the plug, MAF reporting wrong values (reset maf using vcds and run the car).
I just had the same sounding issue.. It was my MAF sensor reporting the wrong values.
Wierd firing when hot issue
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted · Edited by shivadow
I believe, don't quote me, its and arz engine and doesn't have said ignition heatsink as far as i know. There is definitely nothing except the maf, big pipe and rubber bush leading to the inner wing.
I highly doubt the cts is faulty as the last vcds scan didn't highlight it. That was about 2 weeks ago.
I honestly think this is electrical or vacuum related. It going to a mechanic in the morning.