jtmattila
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Posts posted by jtmattila
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1 hour ago, chimaera said:
You seem to have misunderstood me. What I was pointing out is that the halogen bulb is fixed in the headlamp unit, unlike the xenon bulb which is controlled by AFS. I then pointed out that the headlamp unit with the bulbs in it is adjustable using the two screws, and that a diagnostic tool is needed for this to set AFS controller in basic settings before makung the adjustment.
Ok. That's true. My bad. Here is some pictures where you can find those adjusting screws for the halogen bulbs. In the picture you can see the backside of the left headlight unit. Left arrow pointing vertical and right arrow horizontal adjustment screw. The original question was:
On 05/02/2021 at 08:48, mbgar said:Are the incandescend bulbs somehow adjustable? Left Right, Up Down, like the Xenons?
They are... But only manualy.
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Wrong!
The halogen bulbs aiming is adjustable in the bi-xenon AFS headlight. There is two external torx heads for vertical and horizontal adjustment. They are hard to get but it is possible. I will post a pic later today. You need female torx E6 socket.
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My problem cleared. I got a second hand driver's side motor and after replacining the motor, both windows are working.
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Hi! My cup holder has started to ratle.
How to I take it out?
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Hi all!
Not quite topic related but those who have removed the front bumber: is there wiring looms straight behind the license plate?
I'm going to instal auxiliary high beam ledbar with a holder that is meant to be atached with screws to the bumber under the license plate.
So should I be careful while screwing the holder to the bumber?
The car has front parking sensors.
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Can some one confirm the method mentioned above?
I have similar case in hand.
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8 hours ago, spk said:
Hi - do you have the seal part number?
Also when you say the electric motor sucks the boot lid closed - it seems like this wouldn't be the case after a conversion to gas struts. I'm not aware there is any other motors once the powered struts are removed...or am I misunderstanding?
Cheers,
Steve
At least my Superb sucks the boot lid closed. The electric motor is in the lock module. The motor is linked via indoor lights. When the indoor lights fuse burned the boot lid did not fully closed.
The part number for the seals
is 3T9827721
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Converting the electric to gas is a plug and play. All you need is a pair of gas struts. And maybe a blind seal for the wires. I have the oem seal number some where. This type of conversion forces you to escort the boot lid down. You can't slam it. The electric motor will suck the lid closed.
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Just gave a connector cleaner bath to the failing strut yesterday. I dissmanteled it from the car and sprayed cleaner in to it. Make sure that you have some kind of support for the lid. One strut won't keep the lid up. After couple of hours I turned upside down it so the excessive cleaner would run out. Today I installed it and it has worked so far.
There should have been a washer seal in the telescope tube all along so the water and other stuff would not have a clear access to the motor.
I have noticed that when the weather is rainy etc. and you open the boot the water will run down to the telescope tube.
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This kind of function is a good sign for a failure. There is a major engineering fail in the strut. The seals wear down and the moisture/dirt get in. There is two hal sensors in the strut. Other one measures the force when opening snd the other when closing. These sensors are there to prevent someone or something getting squeezed between the tailgate and vehicle or hammering your tailgate while opening it in thigth space. It is a safety feature.
You could try spraying a connector cleaner in to the strut when the tailgate is fully open.
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Hi!
My brothers Superb's left xenon failed. I changed the bulb but still not working. There is a lot of moisture in the headlight so I believe that the ballast is gone.
So now we have to remove the headlight and to do that we have to remove the bumper.
Any help with photos welcome!
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Just got touch with RossTech. Waiting for a response.
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Hi! Don't know how many of you have aftermarket heaters installed but I do and it's causing me problems.
Couple of months ago my check engine-light appeared to the dash. I read the fault codes with VCDS and it showed like this:
1 Fault Found:
5551 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0116 00 [237] - Implausible Signal
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 150399 km
Date: 2016.01.22
Time: 17:09:51
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0
I cleared the code and everything was ok. After couple of days I did a random check with VCDS and the fault code was back.
I replaced the sensor and cleared the code.
Today the check engine-light came back. Same result with VCDS. Implausible signal...
Every time this has happened after using the aftermarket Webasto heater.
I use the heater every day during the winter here in Finland.
Some one told me that the use of the heater may cause this kind of a problem.
The heater heats up the coolant and after the engine is running it starts to cool down.
Has any one a solution for this?
I like to go in a warm car with a clear windows...
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"Few questions:
Are you a first owner of the car?
Did you (or previous owner) chiptunne the car?
Has the CC display disappeared after a visit to service?
Why I ask you all these questions? Because I have not seen any Superb that had CC display factory enabled."
No, I'm not the first owner. Have had the car for 11 months now. 150000km on the meter. No chiptunned or services done by dealers in my possession.
Superb 2.0 TDI 140hp CFFB engine. It did work previosly but after I bouhgt a RossTech VCDS cable and did some coding ( boot closing via remotecontrol, CL/LH lights via fog lights etc.) it dissapearred. Done everything I know but it does not work. Minor problem to me cause I don't use the CC very often. I get more kilometers with the same amount of diesel when I use only my right foot to adjust the speed.
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Hi!
My Superb had CC display on MFD but it has dissapeared. Can'get it working.
I have selected Cruise Control Display-ACTIVE but it does not show it on MFD. I have tried to select it NOT ACTIVE, then reset the MFD to defaul settings and then again selected it ACTIVE, reset to default but no luck.
THE CAR DID SHOW IT WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR BUT NOW IT'S GONE.
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Thanks!
Have to check the foot well lights diodes.
Altough I don't miss the torch...the superskoda led trunk lights give much more light than the original bulbs. I don't keep the torch in it's holder.
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Hi! I have this problem. Slightly different but the result is the same.
I have changed the bootlid lights to superskoda's led's. Now one led in the flashlight starts to glow while after I lock the car.
So is it possible that some other indoor light is causing this problem?
Footwel lights?
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The fuse is number 15, 7.5A.
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Does your interior lights work? The lock is under the same fuse number 15 (7.5A)
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I think that the electronic lock is broken. Not the electronic lid. I had a problem that the lid wouldn't lock. This was caused by a broken fuse. I do not remember the fuse number but it is the same fuse for interior lights. The lock and the electronic boot lid are individual systems. The lock makes the "final pull" after the electronic lid has been pulled down by the struts. And it works the opposite when you open the boot lid. First it "pops" out an the the electonic boot lid is opened by the strut motors.
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Ok. Good to know. Is there a possibility to code them off with DRL?
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Ok. Good to know. Is there a possibility to code them off with DRL?
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Basicly I already have all the conectors and wiring and OEM lights. And I'm planing to buy VCDS cable. Might do the coding when the cable arrives.
are the incandescend high beams adjustable?
in Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015)
Posted
Driver's side. LHD. But you will find same torx heads from the other unit.