peteonimac

From memory, I had to prise off the top end of the rubber boot so that it hinges about the bottom hooky bit, then then lift up and out to unhook the bottom end. When prising the top end you need to unclip the tab in the photo to be able to hinge it on the bottom plastic hook. The black plastic bottom hook can be seen better in some of the previous photos.

I phoned Bitz and they were able to tell me that the blue exciter wire coming from the alternator changes to a violet and white at the next connector, so I put the Skoda on ramps and I took the plastic engine compartment, underside splash guard off to see if could trace the wire and check for damage and continuity. Within seconds of gaining access to the underside of the engine I found the said connector which had a violet and white wire chaffed right through, very close to the connector. This is a ridiculously thin wire and it looks like the sleeving the wires run through flaps around and chaffs against the wires. Poor design or installation of the sleeving to allow it to chaff against the wires, a longer sleeve, or tie-wrapping the end would have prevented this. Here is a photo: Chaffed wire 19Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr ​Not much wire sticking out of the connector, but managed to solder a patch wire to bridge the gap, then fit heat shrink over as insulation. Not pretty, but it's solved the problem and the alternator is charging the battery again. Here is the patch wire photo: Chaffed Wire Repair 19Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr Here is a photo to help others locate the connector on the underside of the engine (notice the tie-wraps I have put on the sleeves to prevent further chaffing): Chaffed wire location 19Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr I hope this helps anyone with the same problem?

Wino, It stays at whatever the battery voltage is, 12ish volts if it's getting a bit low or 13ish if I've charged it up. I think it is the Alternator that needs changing.

Thanks Jonro2009, I had a 3 year service plan with Arnold Clark and it was in there for one of them when I asked them to check out a slow tyre leak. I was told they could not find anything wrong, so I took it to a garage in Forres and they spotted a nail in the tyre within a few seconds of looking at it! Also got them to put a tow bar on it when it was delivered, but they fitted the electrical socket upside down because them had not fitted the mounting bracket the right way round. It was a dark day when AC took over the old Delmore Skoda dealership on Carsgate Road.

Thanks 2ndSkoda, it's a new battery. I'm coming to the conclusion that it's the Alternator at fault rather than wires/cables connected to it, or other components controlling it.

Thanks Wino, something to consider if all else fails1

Wino Quote: "What voltage are you seeing across the battery before starting, and when the engine is running? If the battery is very sick, it may be pulling down the alternator output voltage at idle revs due to the high charge current being pulled. Does the voltage go up if you hold the revs at say 2000-2500?" Thanks Wino, but the voltage stays the same no matter what the revs are, or whether the engine is running or not

I've just disconnected the blue regulator wire from the alternator while the engine was running and the red battery warning light has still not come on! Under what circumstances should this light come on and is it the ECU that controls it? Not that I'm paranoid, but I seem to be having a forum conversation with myself here! As Pink Floyd said "Is there anybody out there" :think:

I have booked a diagnostic check at my local Skoda dealer for next week, but it's £84 and I'll need to get it to Inverness for the day, so I'm hoping for some guidance before then

HELP! My Fabia II Greenline, which is only 4½ years old and has 61,000 miles on the clock, is not charging the battery. I've done the following checks and need advice! Alternator warning light comes on as normal when ignition is switched on and goes out when engine starts. Using a multimeter at the battery and alternator positive feed, the voltage does not go up when engine is running. When the engine is off the voltage reading at the battery and alternator live feed are the same, indicating that the connection between the alternator and battery is good. It is most confusing that the Alternator light does not come on when the Alternator is clearly not charging up the battery. If I disconnect the alternator regulator, should the alternator warning light come on when the engine is on. If it does come on, I assume the problem is either in the alternator generator side or the ECU. I would like to check the continuity of the blue wire connected to the alternator regulator, but I can't trace it to the other end. There is only one wire to the regulator so I assume the regulator has a negative earth return. I guess another way of checking the blue wire is to see if there is power at the regulator connection end. What voltage reading should I get when the engine is running? I'm guessing the blue wire might connect to the Engine Control Unit and I fear that it might lie at the cause of this problem?. Does anyone know what Skoda are doing to fix the emissions software? They have said that my Fabia II requires modification, so does this involve an ECU change, because if it dies, this may save me the expense of an ECU change now? At the moment I'm having to put a mains battery charger on every day and keep car journeys to a minimum.

Aubrey, If it is the same arrangement as my Skoda Fabia II, you'll need to prise off the rubber boot from the top and pull it back as per top photo, to reveal the loom wire. You will see that the yellow plastic lever is in the 12 o'clock position when you gain access to the connector. You need to force the top end of the lever towards the door, so that it swings to the 3 o'clock position (RH door). You can then disconnect it and follow the procedure I have listed to replace the wiring loom. Good luck

Done http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/380918-skoda-fabia-ii-broken-wires-in-hinge-loom-of-drivers-door/

I'm very disappointed with our Skoda Fabia Greenline Mk2. It's not even 5 years old and the drivers side electrical loom wires are breaking near the door hinge connection. The alarm, wing mirror electrics and courtesy lights do not work from this door now. The courtesy switch also warns you that the door is not closed and that the lights are still on when leaving the car. Angela had a flat battery as a consequence and had to be rescued! Doors have had electrics in them for at least 50 years, this should not be happening in a modern car after only 5 years (60307 miles). Skoda RH Door wires 22Nov15LR by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr I decide to replace the loom myself and a new modified loom from Skoda spares dealer costs about £88 inc P&P. Here is how I got on with the job: Make sure the window is fully up to make access to the loom easier when the door card is off Prise rubber boot off the car hinge connection from the top and disconnect the loom by swinging the yellow plastic lock lever down, then pull the multi pin connector out Removed 2 small T10 star drive screws at bottom of trim card Prised off handle trim and removed two T35 star drive handle bolts Carefully prise off the door card at front and rear edges until the stud clips pop out (Replace if they break) Slightly pull out the card from the the door frame and at the same time push the whole card up to unhook from the top There are cables connected to the card that need to be disconnected before the card can be moved sufficiently away from the door to work on the loom You can leave the mechanical door release bowden cable attached to the card Drill off 6.5mm rivet heads and remove the door loud speaker to allow access to the loom at the hinge end Carefully pull off the soft foam cover over the door lock access aperture You can now disconnect the loom from all the door electrical components and pull off the loom anchor studs. To remove the loom through the door hinge aperture you first need to force the rubber boot from the inside via the speaker aperture by squeezing the top plastic lugs until one corner pops off. It might be easier to initially force it into the door if you don't have very strong fingers. Carefully ease the loom forward and out of the door, noting its routing around the window guide channel Fit new loom in reverse order. I found the easiest way of fitting the door end of the rubber boot, was to feed the whole boot end into the door, then push it forward into the aperture so that the rubber lips pop over the aperture edges to form the intended seal. Once you have connected everything,check that it all works before forcing the card trim studs back into their respective holes. It took me about 1½ hours to do the job which is the same time the garage said it would take, which I find quite surprising considering I've never done this on the Skoda before. Here are some photos: Handle trim piece removed to access T35 bolts OS Door Handle trim 06Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr General loom layout with door card off OS Door Card Off 06Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr Loom removed, please note the speaker was removed to gain access to the loom at the hinge end of the door. OS Door Access 06Dec15 by Pete Mitchell, Scotland, on Flickr

Ok I'll give it a go