ola80
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Posts posted by ola80
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On 6/22/2017 at 11:02, gfinneran said:
Try banging on the door near the handle lock area while using the remote to unlock. If you use the search function there have been threads on it, when you get it open disconnect the electrical connection going to the door and any of the others if they are playing up.
I have done that and it didn't work i also tried removing the door panel from the inside but couldnt figure out how to get the locks to open.
can anyone offer any solution please
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8 hours ago, gfinneran said:
Have you read the water ingress thread and checked for water under the carpet, do the interior lights work, any other electrical issues? If not, do that and sort out the pollen filter housing seal, if its been wet for long there will be corrosion in the wiring connections. If all is dry then the problem could be the lock module, search for dry solder joints & microswitches failing in Passat B5.5 or Superb 3U4, there are some good videos on YouTube showing how it can be repaired or just buy the whole lock assembly. Three of my doors failed this way, I disconnected power to the door by unplugging the wiring going to the doors. I locked and unlocked them manually until I had time to address it, still have the back two to do, mine were on the blink for a while so I had warning that they were failing, eventually they will fail in the closed position and then its a bigger problem.
Hello,
Thanks for your suggestion, yes everything is fine and yes also all the interior lights work. is there a way to get the door open as it is in the lock position and nothing seems to work.
Thanks
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hello everyone,
wondering if anyone can help. I own a skoda superb comfort 1.9td (2005) and recently the front passenger side door has stopped opening. The lock doesn't response to the key or to the unlock button in the vehicle. it could be a coincidence but when the front driver side door is open it doesn't show on the dash sensor as been open. I get the following code: when i use the code reader
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
27-00 - Implausible Signalany help on how to fix this please
cheers
Ola
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I think on this car the clutch slave cylinder is on top of the gearbox so is an easy/cheap job (One the Superb II 2.0CR diesel it's a concentric one inside the bellhousing - gearbox off expensive job!)
Brake servo nothing to do with the clutch! - I think the garage might be referring to the clutch master cylinder (fluid fed from the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir) - which if replacing the slave cylinder doesn't fix it would be the next job
Sorry yes it was the clutch master cylinder. so how does this suddenly become the problem after the clutch and dmf got changed
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Drive it for a few days to let it bed in, if still a problem after then - take it back
Hi all,
Just an update, since i had the clutch and dmf done, i have been having problem getting the vechile in gear, espeacially first gear, reverse and i find it difficulty to come down gears from 3rd - 2nd and then it is impossible to come down to 1st - have to come to a complete stop and then battle with the gears.
I have taken back to the garage three times now, the first time they said they need to adjust the link, it was ok for a day and then it got worse, they have bleed the brakes and then today they said they had to change the slave as they didn't think it need changing when the clutch and dmf was done and that am still having issues then the brake servo will need to be changed and i will have to pay for it.
can anyone help, is it just a coincidence that after they change my clutch the gears stopped to engage and i dont really think they know what the problem is .
Thanks
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£600 poorer, car all done and was delivered today thanks everyone for your help.
Took it for a drive tonight feel better, thou I notice some juddering when i change gear, its very prominent when going up from 1st to 2nd - is this normal after a clutch and dmf change?
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Have they split the box off the engine? If they haven't, then there is no way they can have properly tested the DMF to see if it needs replacing.
no, they just said i will need to change the dmf as well. i will ask them to check that the dmf actually needs changing before they change it.
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You say that; I say that I've done 134_000 miles and counting on the original clutch and DMF.
the car has currently done 147k miles on it, with that mileage is it possible the dmf could still be reused, and will it last long if it is reused?
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1
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Does that mean the engine was revving up without the car moving forward when clutch released and accelerator pressed?
they put it in 5th gear with the handbrakes on and got out of the car and it was still running
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Well, to start with, there is no definite need to change the DMF with the clutch.
i was told this needed changing
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Could last a long time and a lot more miles yet. May be an idea to get a couple of other quotes for the clutch/flywheel, £800 sounds high to me.
finally got a quote to change clutch and dual mass for 600. is there anything that needs changing when replacing a clutch?
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Could last a long time and a lot more miles yet. May be an idea to get a couple of other quotes for the clutch/flywheel, £800 sounds high to me.
yeah requesting some few quotes
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If it makes you feel a tiny bit better, I would say it's very likely that you would have needed to replace the brake light switch soon, even though it wasn't the problem here. So I think you haven't wasted that money.
what will make me feel much better is if i won the lottery!! lol :D - the car is done about 140k and is year 2005, should i be thinking about cutting my loses or can i still get a bit more value for money out of it
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Did you install it correctly? The switch locks its adjustment mechanism in place when you lock it into position so its important that you have the brake pedal in its relaxed state when installing.
yeah figured that out and reinstall, the error code went off but the car was still not moving so took to the garage close to me and was told the clutch was gone
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took to the garage and was told the clutch was gone! this is not the xmas present i was hoping for, its going to cost close to £800 to change clutch and flywheel!!
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The black one connected to the brake pedal
just changed it and now i am getting error code16955 Brake switch (F) P0571 -35-00- implausible signal with the coil symbol on the dash and worshop message
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ok guys i have a problem, I have just had a look and there 2 switches one is colour black with part number 3bo945511a ( it has 4 pins) and the other is colour blue with part number: 1j0927189e (2 pin). the black one is linked to the brake pedal, and the blue one is linked to the clutch pedal.
which one do i need to change?
thanks
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Top end of the brake pedal. Not sure if there's any trim to remove before you can see it on a Superb.
Judging by the chassis numbers, the second link you posted will be the one.
As said above, it's two switches really. When the pedal is pushed, pins 1 & 4 become connected (switching on the brake lights), and pins 2 & 3 become disconnected (telling engine and ABS ECUs that the pedal is pressed). If yours is telling the ECU wrongly that the pedal is pressed, it suggests a problem with the switch between pins 2 & 3, or a broken wire going to one of them.
Indeed, seems to be a common fault in many VAG cars of this era. Happened on my Octavia as well - on mine the brake light also stopped working
thank you very much for your help guys, will have a look in the morning and just change the sensor.
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You generally only get a code if the switch outputs don't agree with each other. If they have both failed in the same state then the ECU just thinks that you are applying the brake or not applying the brake.
You can see the state of both switches with VCDS in the measuring blocks, otherwise the easiest thing is to remove it and use a multi meter.
thanks for your reply
where is the brake switch be located - is it easy to change, also will it not better to just change it if it is easy to change?
just looking on eurocarparts which of the below will be the right one
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Brake light switch
Brake switch overides throttle. As above get this checked.
There's 2 outputs on the switch. One for brake lights. One for ECU.
thanks guys, what am i checking for in the brake switch and is this something i can check using a code reader?
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Hello everyone,
I am having some issues with car and i was hoping someone here can help.
I have a skoda superb 1.9tdi 2005. today i started my car and it justs struggles to move, no matter how hard i press the accelerator the car just drags as if something is holding it back.
i have scan it and there isnt any code, no light is coming up on the dash as well. i replaced the maf sensor thinking that might be the issue but nothing seems to be working.
please help.
thanks
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Hello everyone,
I am looking at getting a used skoda superb 1.9 diesel 2005 Reg with 140k miles on it. i previously have a volvo s40.
my question is what show i be looking at for, what are the pitfalls with regards to skoda superb especially the 2005 diesel.
any other advise will be appreciated - I am hoping you good people on the forum will help out.
thanks
Ola -
hello,
my name is Ola, previously i owed a Volvo S40 but due to it been written off i am looking to get a skoda. As i have never owed a skoda before I am hoping you good people here would be able to help with any questions or problem i have.
thanks
Ola
help with radio/infotainment not working
in Skoda Superb Mk I (2001-2008)
Posted
Hello,
I have a skoda superb 1.9 2005, last week the battery went flat and i had to jump start it.
every since then my radio and infotainment has failed to switch on, reading the codes i get the following:
01304 - Radio 49-00 - No Communications
00926 - Terminal 30 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
i have checked the fuse panel by the driver side and all the fuse are ok, can anyone help
Thanks