freemansteve

Sorry to hear.... I reckon you'll get a better response if you list which parts need replacing! Some are the same, some are different....

Cobalt-free batteries are coming. Prices will plummet. Sadly I'm not an early adopter....

Summing up: There are markets where fuel is often less than 91RON... There are places where fuel is supposed to be 91/95 etc but isn't, maybe even the UK.... Ups/Citigos etc sold in S. America, S. Asia etc may well have a map that is set or scaled for lower fuel ratings... The difference between the 60PS engine and 75PS engine in Europe is just the map. The higher power unit has a map that allows more fuelling and more timing advance - everything else is the same as far as I know. My point was that ignition timing is alterable via the ECU. If you have a 60PS, it should be fairly easy to turn it into a 75PS for reasonbale money! Knock-sensors will retard timing, but only up to a point, depending on the ECU's map. The 'map' is a set of linked look-up tables forming a multidimensional matrix, but sometimes look-up values are 'off the map' and defaults are used. It's a basic programming thing. I used to handle similar stuff when I wrote serious code back in the day.... With a vehicle not owned from new, you have no idea of its provenance, which may include poor attempts to change the map.... And to the original point.... If a pinking problem occurs (and we have no real data on whether the OP had actual pinking as perceived, or if it was something else) it could be problems with fuelling, air leaks, or ignition timing. If a problem has occurred recently and suddenly, the first question should always be "what has changed?" (i.e. a service maybe done badly, a different fuel station, general fiddling under the bonnet ). I'd check for any sensor errors using an OBD dongle first. But my first bet is on an air leak, if it really is pinking, putting bad fuel aside for now. Meaning that the engine is sucking in a bit more air than has been measured by the MAP (i.e the thing like a MAF, not the map in the ECU) so it runs lean, possibly beyond the point where knock sensors are able to retard ignition via the ECU. Possibly loose injector or spark plug, leak in inlet manifold, dirty MAP etc. If not that, then it may be insufficient fuelling compared with air coming in. Possibly dirty injector(s), weak fuel pump (unlikely as this throws a definite error code on OBD). Some injectors (usually DI - I don't know about MPi injectors like on these cars) are often coded to to the ECU, owing to slight tolerance differences. If you change them, you have to recode them on many vehicles, to match their specific flow characteristics (stamped on the injectors), but that is high pressure stuff. And you also need a decent spark, so plugs/coils should be checked. The alternative is to spend a while looking for the non-existent distributor, and clean the cap. And clean and reset the the points, and check the little vacuum-driven weight is working to advance/retard the ignition. Just kidding. #

I believe ignition is setable via ECU access. Obviously there are not points anymore! This is how they adjust for various local markets where fuel quality may be less than 95 or 91 RON, and it's how you remap a car - I don't think rely entirely on knock sensors As I went on to say in the bit you missed, it could be an electrical issue (including faulty sensors or plugs/coils) or a fuelling problem!

I thought the poster lived abroad, but I may be wrong. I believe there have been a few cases where fuel is adulterated to save costs, almost certainly with something combustible that saves costs, like ethanol or paraffin. The UK is well regulated and inspected, or at least used to before everything got cut, but I wouldn't assume it is entirely fraud-free!

It may be you have been using fuel that is under spec for 95 ron....

Tried both on mine (but I have only 2700 miles on the clock). Can't tell a difference... These cars are supposedly set for 95 RON, so if you are pinking, your ignition timing is a tad too advanced, which can normally be fixed on a service. But having said that, all modern cars have knock sensors that should automatically retard ignition to match the fuel, so you may have spark or fuelling issues. Either way, get it checked, it's not good. Many people assume that higher octane fuel will automatically give more power, but while that may well apply to many engines, it is not always the case - the point is that an ECU can and must limit the amount of ignition advance or retard (and fuelling) to be with certain limits, so 95 RON may be as good as you can get on a Citigo. The reason for this is to limit max cylinder temperatures, which in turn will limit NOx emissions for legal or longevity reasons. It really is a lot more complicated than the average punter realizes! I used to have a couple of people working for me on my team (hi-tech global product development in hardware and software) who had previously worked in the development shops for car engine makers, and this stuff is worked on by PhD level engineers and chemists - so 99% of everything you see on the internet is totally uniformed guesswork and anecdotes. Anecdotes are not the same as data, and the guy down the garage who tells you things, is, at the the end of the day, a parts fitter, not an engineer.

On the subject of assisted braking, don't forget that with IC engines, it's only petrol engines with throttle bodies that have vacuum driven servos for the brakes. Diesels, for example, don't create a vacuum (comparatively) so they have a vacuum pump driven from (almost always) a belt on the engine. I imagine - but have not checked - that an electric car has a similar system, or an electrically assisted mechanism to amplify brake force. As an interesting aside, certain big caravans - US 5th wheels, in the main - that relied on the towing vehicle providing air pressure for air brakes (like a lorry, but that's quite the opposite concept to a vacuum servo on cars) became illegal unless the towing vehicle's mechanism for providing air pressure was mechanically connected to the engine. As fifth wheels were generally towed by pick-up trucks, this forced a change onto the type of trailer braking system, as there are no pick-ups that provide mechanically linked air pressure, hence a change to electric or hydraulic-electric independent systems on the caravan (i.e. it still works if you get a break-way separation). So in a roundabout way, it's quite interesting to learn where an electric Citigo (et al) gets its brake assist from and what happens to the brakes should there be an electrical failure. You see, if the motor is still spinning owing to the car still moving, a mechanical linkage can still work a servo, like on a diesel. Does anyone know (with facts, not guessing) how this is taken care of?

I just dragged an MP3 file onto a reply box, using Firefox on a PC, just as a test. The reply box says "Drag files here to attach, or choose files..." Can you access and play the file? If so, that's your method. test.mp3

No. They gradually age irrespective of mileage. They obviously also age and usage-wear faster if they get driven in conditions where you pick up lots of road dirt, grit, dust, salt, oil-waste, tar spatter etc etc. That will vary around the country. Whatever the completely conflicting advice is out there I'll consider a change at 5 years pending inspections, or 50-60K miles anyway.

As said, you can run SatNav on your phone without impacting any of your data allowance. You will need access to WiFi/Broadband in order to download maps - but only initially. One issue with dedicated SatNav units is that some won't run off a USB port, or at least won't stay charged up. In some cases, the 5V off USB is too low, and/or the maximum USB current is too low... My unit will charge up fine off USB 2 when turned off, but when operating, there is not enough current to run it and charge it at the same time - I have to use the dedicated 12v power supply that came with the SatNav. The USB spec is: 0.5 A (USB 2.0), 0.9 A (USB 3.0), 1.5 A (BC 1.2), 3 A (USB-C)... USB 1/2/3 is normally a question of data rate, but it is a fact that chargers can vary a lot in current output, although I have no idea what the spec is for the port on the Citigo's dashboard. So it's not necessarily an issue, but check the spec of any SatNav unit you may want to buy. Someone on this forum will probably know the spec (current) of the Citigo's USB port!

Exactly. That's what makes it unusual. Loads of DSG twin-clutch variants, and loads of slush boxes out there!

Yes, the NPS is a possibility, but I wouldn't jump to firm conclusions just yet! In any case, the VAG ASG is a very unusual design compared with most automatics, and the NPS idea is just a theory as most of us have manuals, and many like me have never even seen an ASG (but I have had plenty of automatics). I echo the above in that if the car is "just under three years old", don't waste time and get to a dealer before the warranty runs out! (I think it is 3 years, and being second hand is probably irrelevant)

A faulty neutral position switch (if these have them) will just stop the engine from starting. Everything else would work... They are normally found under the main body that contains the selector lever, so you may need to pull a few bits off to find it. It's just a small microswitch that indicates to the ECU that you are in neutral and thus safe to start. Sometimes the NPS is under the car body if the selector lever exits the underbody, and if so, they tend to fail more often for obvious reasons (external = possible damp ingress). As I said before, if you normally have to hold the brake pedal to start, check your brake lights work - this will prove that the microswicth on the brake pedal is working. Or not.

Do these cars use a "neutral position switch" on the selector lever like other automatics? It's a common failure point... My manual only starts if I press the clutch pedal, but do you have to press the brake pedal on your automatic car (some autos require this)? If so, check the brake lights come on and off and if not, check the switch on the pedal.

On point 2 - all I can say is that DAB works brilliantly well on my 2019 Se-L, actually better than FM, and I doubt they have made major changes. So either you live in a DAB blackspot or you have loose antenna cable. It's warranty thing in any case.... You must have climate control if you have set points for temperature - I have no idea about the aircon default settings on the Ev version. I have had several vehicles that have had climate control though, and have observed that they did not do what I thought was the logical default, or my preset, when the cabin was very hot. They made daft decisions for me. Again, check he fact with your dealer. They won't know, and so will bull**** you, but then insist they check with Skoda UK. Dunno about Skoda Connect - I don't really see the point. I have Move & Go on my Android phone and the latest version works OK (no idea about iOS, but then iOS is 5 years behind Android, and just a taxation system for Apple!)

Removed? Are you saying they used to be fitted (originally), then were deleted, and then re-instated? My early 2019 SE-L 75 has plastic liners, and so did the late 2019 Citigo SE 60 courtesy car I used a three days ago....

Is this sorted? I assume you have checked the bushes and mounts, and also the bushes for the beam axle...

Reassemble using a very thin layer of copper grease, spread on the mating surface, is what I'd probably do.

Ok, so it's just about getting the later mounting system (like mine I assume, with the clip-in grabber not shown) to simply be able to hold your phone, and all electrical considerations are not applicable.... I assumed the first pic looked like you could separate the two halves with 2 screws, but clearly it's not that simple from what you are saying. Are the two halves ultrasonically welded together? If so, you'll need a fine toothed hacksaw, or use a hot blade to melt and separate then epoxy the new top onto the old base?

I'm not following from the pics quite what you bits you have, or need to achieve, but if the rhoboid plastic part has a hole for usb, and if that is what you need, then something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vzer-Converter-Module-convert-Adapter/dp/B071FT57SV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=12v+to+usb+buck&qid=1593034472&sr=8-3 ...would let you fit the female usb end into the hole, with a bit of milliput or similar. For my 2019 car, I bought a plain plug to fill the gap in the dash, and I have stored away the elaborate phone holder, as the 'grab' arms were too small to hold my large satnav (I hate peering at my relatively small phone for maps!

What! And lose the wine bottle holder? I'll give that a miss

If you kept the harness, could you not wire up the power wires for the usb connector, so you could at least use the physical mount and charge your phone in situ? You don't even need to figure out how to access usb power from the existing radio (not sure if your radio provided usb or not) - you can buy a tiny 12v to 5v usb "buck" PCB from Amazon for a few quid. I fitted several around my 5th wheel caravan a few years back, so I could charge or power various things when not on mains, and they worked a treat.

Don't forget that tyres protruding beyond bodywork are illegal, as well as being a pedestrian hazard, but as said above, you'll be fine with wheel arch extensions. Just as well the rims are not crazy wide as that can reduce grip especially in the wet, given there is a bit of a sweet spot for weight/force versus area of the tyre's contact patch.